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1961 - 1966 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Slick Sixties Ford Truck

292 crossover exhaust

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Old Mar 10, 2011 | 08:19 AM
  #1  
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292 crossover exhaust

I have a 1964 F250, when I bought it the exhaust crossover had been removed sometime in the past and has dual mufflers. I always have to let it warm up even when it's not really that cold and it has a miss that I've never been able to diagnose. Will replacing the crossover help? I assume the crossover was important to the engine design and operation.
Gerry
 
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Old Mar 10, 2011 | 10:08 AM
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Well you could have a cold blooded motor, but there are things to help out.

Hook up your choke, advance the timing a bit, and see if you can fatten up the carb a bit. Running a touch lean can make a motor harder to start.

If you wanna throw money at the problem you can do a pertronix kit or eqiuivalent and a MSD box or equivalent. These reall help wake up carb'd motors on a cold morning.
 
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Old Mar 10, 2011 | 12:06 PM
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Gerry
You are right the crossover pipe is on the engine for a reason More then likely if you could diagnose and fix the miss, your start problem might also be fixed. You did not mention if it has a manual choke or a electronic one.I agree with Ziegelsteinfaust my distributor on my 64 F250 is shot the mechanical advance weights are worn , the point plate is worn, so I have been thinking about replacing it with a Pertronix or something similar you cant beat the reliability of electronic ignition.. If you could find someone with a oscilloscope that they could put it on it would make things easier. But if not try a few things first, try a cylinder balance test and see if you narrow it done to one cylinder. Spray Windex on the wires while it is running and see if you see any arcing. Check for vacuum leaks there are several ways to do this I recommend the use of a little propane bottle and hose it is the safest. Has your valves been adjusted lately? Somethings to start with.
 
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Old Mar 10, 2011 | 04:27 PM
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The crossover actually makes the engine run poorer as you are dumping the exhaust in to another exhaust stream and cylender reversion does occur. Ford used special sodium filled exhaust valves for this setup to not burn them as often.

It is mearly a design feature used by ford as there is a pesky steering box in the way on the drivers side of the engine.

There are cross over ports cast into the heads feeding the intake for warm up.

The best thing one can do is let the Y block breathe through independent exhaust manifolds or hedders.

Speedway now offers true ramshorn type manifolds to run duals if hedders are not your game.

Your engine may run rough due to a burned valve or too loose on the valves, worn distributer shaft. ect.

Garbz
 
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Old May 8, 2019 | 09:18 PM
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hi patmedic. forgive my ignorance. but i also have a 64 f-250. and i was wondering if that system you are talking about would work on a 6 volt system. mine is unmolested and original with a 292 y block.o know i can convert it. but, everything except the fuel gauge and heater fan works. and i am in the process of fixing those.thanks for th einfo.
 
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Old May 8, 2019 | 10:32 PM
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Welcome to FTE! Best thing you can do is pick up a Shop Manual for your truck. Start with the basics, a compression test, mechanic's vacuum gauge. Make sure the brakes and steering are safe.
 
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Old May 9, 2019 | 03:31 PM
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An unmolested '64 has a 12v system so no need to convert anything.
 
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Old May 22, 2019 | 11:56 AM
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Pertronix ALSO has a 6 volt application...if that is what you meant by "system you were talking about"....a Pertronix makes a WORLD of difference to starting up a Y block...but your truck should be 12 volt....Ford went to twelve volt in late 1955 I believe.....
 
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Old May 22, 2019 | 12:54 PM
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FoMoCo: 1928/55 = 6V positive ground. 1956 thru today = 12V negative ground.
 
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Old May 22, 2019 | 01:23 PM
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Negative ground prior to 1928, eh?
 
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Old May 23, 2019 | 08:15 PM
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Originally Posted by Tedster9
Negative ground prior to 1928, eh?
No Ford had a battery before 1928. First was when the Model A was introduced in late 1927 as a 1928 model.
 
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Old May 23, 2019 | 08:50 PM
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Originally Posted by NumberDummy
No Ford had a battery before 1928.
Hm, well that makes sense. Magneto ignition! In those wooden boxes?
 
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Old May 23, 2019 | 10:16 PM
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Originally Posted by Tedster9
Hm, well that makes sense. Magneto ignition! In those wooden boxes?
On T's (1908/27) for sure, not sure if the magnetos were located in boxes on 1903/07's.
 
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Old May 24, 2019 | 02:10 AM
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Originally Posted by NumberDummy
No Ford had a battery before 1928. First was when the Model A was introduced in late 1927 as a 1928 model.
1919 was the first year for electric starters on Model T.s. By 1920 the starter was standard on closed cars and optional on open cars until 1927. By 27 the starter was standard on all cars but some say there may be some non electric cars available iuntil the end of Model T production.
The electric cars starting in 1919/20, had a battery, an ammeter and a three position switch. Bat......Off......Mag

The magneto was on the flywheel assembly or more accurately the flywheel was the main component the magneto.
 
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Old May 25, 2019 | 09:38 PM
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Originally Posted by garbz2
The crossover actually makes the engine run poorer as you are dumping the exhaust in to another exhaust stream and cylender reversion does occur. Ford used special sodium filled exhaust valves for this setup to not burn them as often.

It is mearly a design feature used by ford as there is a pesky steering box in the way on the drivers side of the engine.

There are cross over ports cast into the heads feeding the intake for warm up.

The best thing one can do is let the Y block breathe through independent exhaust manifolds or hedders.

Speedway now offers true ramshorn type manifolds to run duals if hedders are not your game.

Your engine may run rough due to a burned valve or too loose on the valves, worn distributer shaft. ect.

Garbz
There was a valve (heat riser) on your crossover pipe that redirected hot exhaust to warm up you carb etc on start up. I'm sure it had a good purpose, but I live down south and don't ever really worry about icing carb etc. So I recently replaced mine with headers and two mufflers, and the power gain is very noticeable when driving. It may be a little less easy to start, but worth the exchange.
 
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