I thought I would write a little journal of this as I go. Putting this on a bone stock 1966 352 2 barrel motor. I have learned some lessons in this experience. First, don't buy one used from an unknown (and in my case bad) source. I picked this up used for cheap. So far I have found parts missing and some components that were DOA. The fuel pump that came with it was dead. I have now replaced that with a Carter fuel pump as the Holley ones seem to have some pretty bad reviews.

I took care of the mechanical stuff and my friend did all the wiring. Everything went pretty smooth after replacing the missing parts and the dead parts I managed to drain the tank and plumbed the return line back into the tank up near the filler neck. I'll try to get some pics when I am all done.

My friend had the power wired to the ignition switch and it was losing power during cranking. Injectors were a bit corroded at the connectors. I took everything apart and cleaned everything well, and I am at least able to start the motor now.

It is not in a good state of tune and I am still wondering if the injectors need to be sent off to be internally cleaned as the spray pattern does not look great, but it is progress. I guess that is what I get from buying something like this used from an unknown source

I am also wondering if the fuel pressure regulator is bad as it would not go above 13 psi. It is supposed to be able to go up to around 18 or 20 psi. But fully tightened down and it hovered around 12-13. Luckily I don't need much more than that at this point so it is not a huge deal. It will not work at all for the next motor, but I planned to swap things out eventually anyways.

So making progress. Things to note for people in the future...go directly to the terminal on the starter solenoid that the starter wire is on for the cranking signal. The signal wire drops voltage during cranking and does not put out a good strong voltage. It seemed to alternate between 8 and 9 volts. The terminal that the starter wire is on, however, gets a good solid 10-11 volts which is enough to power the ECU.

Also of note, the terminal (on my truck at least) on the ignition switch loses power during starting. So if you need constant power before and during starting, this is not a good place. My friend told me a way to wire it up with diodes though and that seems to be working great. I ran one wire with a diode to the starter wire and another to the ignition switch. Both wires had diodes on them to keep power from crossing over. I then ran these two to a relay trigger that triggered the main ECU power. Works well.

 

Well everything is up and running. Idle seems a bit weird, but I think that one of the gaskets may have been damaged when taking everything on and off, so that will be replaced later this week.

Truck runs VERY smooth when driving and throttle response is 10x better. Truck seems to be making more power and it is more consistent. I can only imagine it will get better as I get the vacuum leak fixed and get everything dialed in.

 

Got most everything done. There is still a minor annoying leak that does not seem to want to go away, no matter the gasket I use. Might be the intake manifold or maybe I missed something. Oh well, I am able to just add in fuel to compensate. Truck runs great, drives good, response is tons better. The only thing I don't like is not being able to plug in and remap on the laptop with this analog system.

But next, when the 460 goes in I am either going to a much larger throttle body system or multi port fuel injection with a stand alone controlling fuel and spark.

 

Just a follow up. I got the $100 holley 2b conversion (which despite Summit's notes, comes WITH gaskets and bolts) and the truck idles like a dream and runs so much better than it did with a carb. The old analog kit is a pain to adjust, but once you do it is great! I think with a closed look kit it might be better, but I have read mixed reviews.

So end result, kit does very well. Don't use the Transdapt 2 barrel adapter, use the Holley one.