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Pulled out my old rad, process of putting in a uses one but my old one had ONE extra coolant line in the bottom portion of the radiator. Looks like a 3/4" line and when I take it off the fitting has about a 1/8" passage in the middle of the 3/4 in line.
The fitting is brass so its not like its plugged and its not the trans cooler lines as they are already accounted for.
So I have my upper and lower hoses
In and out for the trans cooler
and one extra coolant 3/4" line.
nope, petcock is accounted for.
The hose looks to go up next to the trans cooler lines. Ill look a little better.
Its strange as I would think there would be an in and an out but its just a singe hose?????
the bypass according to ford it to slow down the flow in the the heater core it was made because people kept complaining about a sound of water rushing though the the heater core i plugged mine up and just went from block to core then core to water pump
It's a coolant bypass hose. The other end should be "T'ed" into the heater hose.
I know this is an Oldddd thread and not expecting an answer, but it is acceptable to bypass this hose that is “T’ed” into the line coming from the heater and the block? I purchased a new aluminum rad from champion cooling it came with a block off plug and o ring where that fitting goes. I’d reuse it but threads are different pitch. It seems like a lot of hassle if I’m fine just running the plug and deleting the “T”.
Thanks for all the help you guys give me when I look through these old threads trying to give my IDI some love
The lower hose that is teed into the passenger side heater hose is, I think, intended to help warm up the transmission oil cooler portion of the radiator. I have that lower hose on my 1990 w/E4OD but I do not have it on my '92 w/5spd. From what I've read it doesn't make a huge difference in how long it takes for the trans fluid to warm up to minimum temp but I suppose the engineers decided it was worth having. Again, from what I have read, there are better ways to induce faster warm-up of trans fluid but I'm not there yet.
thank you WCMtn1990 for your input, mine has the e40d and I decided to keep the plug that came with the new rad and just run new hose to delete the old fitting. Close to buttoning it up and filling the system
Unrelated
is there a good thread for me to look into about engine stalling. It seems like it’s starving itself for fuel, no certain times. While driving the engine will rev up then just die, sometimes it’ll have a hard starting back up sometimes not. It has a new lift pump and I primed the injection pump and injectors with ATF for 24 hours to no avail. I’m wondering what I should do next to check the tanks or line(s?) going to the pump
thank you WCMtn1990 for your input, mine has the e40d and I decided to keep the plug that came with the new rad and just run new hose to delete the old fitting. Close to buttoning it up and filling the system
Unrelated
is there a good thread for me to look into about engine stalling. It seems like it’s starving itself for fuel, no certain times. While driving the engine will rev up then just die, sometimes it’ll have a hard starting back up sometimes not. It has a new lift pump and I primed the injection pump and injectors with ATF for 24 hours to no avail. I’m wondering what I should do next to check the tanks or line(s?) going to the pump
Well check your fuel filter or replace it if you don't know how many miles are on it. If you have the older 2-piece fuel filter you can update to a 1-piece filter to eliminate a potential source for leaks and air intrusion. Does the filter light illuminate in the dash? The "rev up" part sounds like air intrusion to me, especially if it is hard to restart. There is a rubber fuel pickup "showerhead" in the tanks that can rot out and either cause a clog at the fuel tank selector valve or you won't be able to suck out the last 1/4 tank of fuel. A lot of people replace the showerhead with a ring clamp and 3/8 fuel line that has a couple small "V" shaped cutouts on the bottom. You might check the fuel tank vents to make sure they are not clogged or damaged. If the return lines are old they might need replacing along with the o-rings on the injectors. I have read a thread somewhere that a person found the source of their air intrusion to be some pinholes in the metal portion of the fuel sending unit but that would be the last place to check if it were me.