Buzz test

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Oct 6, 2010 | 07:46 PM

xlmine

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Buzz test

After eliminating all the other no start/hard start culprits on my 2001 F-350 7.3, I am left with the real possibility that I will need injectors. After all it does have almost 300K miles on it. Meanwhile since it does start and run well after its been plugged in to the block heater for 15-20 minutes. In an emergency if I was to have a 1200w generator to plug into, would it provide enough juice to activate and run the block heater?
Thanks in advance for any impute on this.
Casey

Oct 6, 2010 | 07:56 PM

woodnthings

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From: Snohomish, WA

The block heater is a 1000w element. A 1200w generator probably cannot handle that. Most generators are rated at the max watt not continuous. A 1800w should be able to do it, but 15-20 minutes may not be enough to help.

Oct 6, 2010 | 08:28 PM

xlmine

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Thanks ! Thats the info I was looking for...This is a great site, with lots of great people!

Oct 6, 2010 | 08:32 PM

robs01f250

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From: Bowling Green, KY

what all have you done to eliminate the hard starts?

Oct 6, 2010 | 08:54 PM

F350-6

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From: Texas

If you've eliminated the other stuff, the worn injectors is a real possibility with high mileage. The block heater trick typically takes a couple of hours to be effective. Cycling the glow plugs might help some. In the mean time a switch to synthetic oil might help the start ups.

If you think it's injectors, what's the delay on replacing them? If it's $$$, you might consider buying from Clay (RiffRaff diesel - a sponsor) he has some deals on new and rebuilt injectors. Or even Jim (rosewood diesel - a sponsor) who sells DIY injector rebuild kits. The other option is to pull your valve covers and start your truck.

We have a HEUI system, so the injectors fire off of engine oil. The oil used to fire the injector is discharged out under the deflector on each injector. With the valve covers off, you just need to watch which injectors are spitting oil and which ones are not. You can start replacing injectors one or two at a time, starting with the ones not spitting oil as a cost saving measure. There is no reason you have to replace them all at once. For a no start when cold, I'd guess you've got at least 2 on each side not spitting oil. Synthetic might help or at least shorten plug in time.

Your thread is titled Buzz Test. Have you done one of those cold, then repeated on a warm engine?

Oct 7, 2010 | 04:24 PM

xlmine

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Pulling the valve covers is my next step. Having never done it before its somewhat intimidating. But after reading Quick444's stories and posts, no problem ! Its a CA truck so it has a GPRM and I have not found posts on those going bad. I suppose the glowplugs themselves could be bad ? The buzz test was done by a local high desert shop....he didn't say he did twice. I've checked the ICP and the IPR they appear good, no loose nuts.
So thanks again and I will post again once I get under the valve covers.

________________
Casey Jones
2001 F350 7.3 Auto 4x4 CC
K&N Filter New black CPS
Isspro boost, pyro, Trans gauge
Hypertech Tuner
BF Goodrich AT 315/75/16, Gibson dual

Oct 7, 2010 | 11:56 PM

xlmine

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I started the removal of the valve covers tonight and got as far as starting the passenger side when I ran into the problem of removing the two hose hangers that use the valve cover bolts as their mount. Is there any easy way of removing these impediments to progress?

Thanks

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Oct 8, 2010 | 01:29 AM

xlmine

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Got past the hangers .....dont ask...now its the bolt holding the dip stick.....its on there with such force that I cant torque it loose without stripping off the dipstick bracket and possibly the dipstick tube itself

. I've WD-40 the hell out it, and I'm done for the night.
Hopefully the d40 will un-stick it.

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Casey Jones
2001 F350 7.3 Auto 4x4 CC
K&N Filter New black CPS
Isspro boost, pyro, Trans gauge
Hypertech Tuner
BF Goodrich AT 315/75/16, Gibson dual

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Oct 8, 2010 | 07:35 AM

F350-6

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From: Texas

Grab the metal bar that holds the dipstick with a pair of vice grips or channel locks or something to hold it still, then break the nut loose. When putting it back together, you don't have to tighten that nut down too much, just make sure the stud below it is tightened correctly.

Oct 8, 2010 | 07:21 PM

#10

xlmine

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Got the passenger side VC off at last but there was a little surprise.

Check out the images here New Page 2
I'm in contact with Rosewood to do a injector service. Now for the drivers side.

____________________________

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Oct 8, 2010 | 07:25 PM

#11

BigAlsPSD

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From: Pea Ridge, AR

Looks like the oil spout for an injector? Should have an injector missing a bolt on that side unless the PO had injectors serviced and the parts were left in

Oct 8, 2010 | 07:33 PM

#12

F350-6

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From: Texas

Don't panic. I agree with Alan. Looks like an oil deflector. Check all your injectors. Each one of them should have the thing in your picture in the upper left corner of the injector. Sounds like you've got one missing. Any sign of the bolt that holds it in place?

Oct 8, 2010 | 07:36 PM

#13

xlmine

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Yes , I think you are right...but all the injectors in there right now have theirs in place.
So when the stealership in Denver a couple of years ago was in there replacing what they said was a bad harness (I know I got ripped off) they musta done something other than just replace the harness, and it wasnt good !

____________________
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Oct 8, 2010 | 07:44 PM

#14

F350-6

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From: Texas

New injectors don't typically come with a new deflector from what I remember. They are re-usable, so I'm not sure how you got an extra.

How did the electrical connector look?

Oct 8, 2010 | 08:15 PM

#15

xlmine

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"How did the electrical connector look?"

Do you mean to the injectors ? They all look good....as does the UVCH..it was snug.
And the big one outside the VC looks good ...havent tried to unplug it yet.
I'm still working on drivers side VC removal...I feel like a contortionist....I'm having trouble with the one in back that you cant see.
Thanks again for the help and encouragement !

_____________
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