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Old Oct 6, 2010 | 12:20 PM
  #1  
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V10ZILLA
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Suspension Advice

I have a 2009 F250 4X4 CC LB V10, I bought it new from the dealer and the truck has no modifications to it. I have the camper package and what FORD calls the off road package not the FX4 package.

My truck as did the others on the FORD lot, sit with the front end approx 1/2 to 1 inch higher than the rear. After reasearching this on FTE. I have found that do to having the camper package the front springs are 1 up from stock which is giving the front end height over the rear.

My question is. Is this correct ? Can I and if I replace the rear F250 blocks with F350 blocks will I get and inch of lift for the rear. I read here that the F350 blocks are 1 inch taller than F250 blocks, Is that true.

and if I get the F350 blocks would I have to get the U-bolts as well and IS THERE ANYTYPE OF ALIGNMENT OR ADJUSTMENT THAT I HAVE TO DO if I replace the rear blocks. Is there any type of negitiveness or harm to the truck if I did this. Hopfully I am on the right track to level or raise the rear to almost level. Any help advice would be appreciated.

Thanks
 
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Old Oct 6, 2010 | 12:44 PM
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the 350 blocks will give you an inch...you will need new u bolts...i have heard that sometimes you may need a shim to stop a vibration when driving at high speeds but i don't think its too bad. It cant be negative because stock 350s have them
 
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Old Oct 6, 2010 | 02:36 PM
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rickf92592
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I thought the F350 blocks were 2" taller, at least the ones I put on my F250 were.
I supposed you should measure what you have to make sure.
Never, ever, ever re-use the u-bolts. They have stretched and could fail if you re-torque them.
I'd almost guarantee you'll need to shim the carrier bearing afterwards.
 
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Old Oct 6, 2010 | 08:34 PM
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thank you guys for the info. I appreciate it.
 
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Old Oct 6, 2010 | 08:40 PM
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You should get 2" with 350 blocks, replace the U-bolts, and yes, you MUST shim the carrier bearing.
 
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Old Oct 6, 2010 | 08:50 PM
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The 350 block will raise you about 1.5+" in the rear (350 block=~3 5/8", 250 block=1 7/8") on non tapered blocks, which is what you want for the Long bed.

I have a 1/2" shim on my carrier bearing but have heard conflicting results wheather the long beds really need the additional rake. My carrier bearing is noisy after about 25k with the spacer. Could just be coincedence.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/6...ar-blocks.html
 
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Old Oct 6, 2010 | 09:52 PM
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Originally Posted by DAVE67FD
The 350 block will raise you about 1.5+" in the rear (350 block=~3 5/8", 250 block=1 7/8") on non tapered blocks, which is what you want for the Long bed.

I have a 1/2" shim on my carrier bearing but have heard conflicting results wheather the long beds really need the additional rake. My carrier bearing is noisy after about 25k with the spacer. Could just be coincedence.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/6...ar-blocks.html
DAVE67FD, Thanks for the link after reading through it. It was very helpful. I am thinking that this switch would make the rear just slightly higher than the front (most likely not noticable). Which for me is better than the rear sagging. When you say that your carrier bearing in noisy, do you mean that clunk I have read about here or something else. And was the 1/2 shim good enough.
 
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Old Oct 6, 2010 | 09:55 PM
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Originally Posted by jc8825
You should get 2" with 350 blocks, replace the U-bolts, and yes, you MUST shim the carrier bearing.
jc8825, thanks for the info. Is there a method to figure out what would be the correct size shim to use.
 
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Old Oct 6, 2010 | 09:58 PM
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Originally Posted by V10ZILLA
jc8825, thanks for the info. Is there a method to figure out what would be the correct size shim to use.
My previous 04 250 had 350 rear blocks with a leaf spring add-on kit along with 285/75 tires and the carrier bearing had about 4 shims in it, but I don't remember how far that dropped it down. Just try to keep it at the OEM angle.
 
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Old Oct 6, 2010 | 10:41 PM
  #10  
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V10ZILLA,
Not quite sure why you had to ask the same question in the link i sent. Thought we answered you question here, but anyway

As a general rule of thumb you should use about 1/2" for every 2" of lift. Personally i would install the blocks without the carrier bearing (also refered to as carrier hanger bearing) spacer. Seeing as you have the long bed it probably wont make much difference with or without it. Typically if you feel any amount of vibration on take-off then you might want to try one. Mine is making the sound of a worn bearing. No vibration or clunkin as of yet. I can't say if the spacer will increase the chance of bearing failure or not. I plan on removing shortly to see if it minimizes the noise. If you are getting clunking you may have worn u-joints or your driveshaft splines may need greasing.
 
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