Hi y'all. Just recently got my HAM license, and my radio (Yaesu FT-7900R) came in the mail yesterday. I'm looking for ideas on where to install it. It does have the removeable remote front panel, so I could put the actual radio anywhere, and have only the front panel up where I need it.

Also, in the book, it said to connect the radio "directly to the battery". I've seen enough other posts to be able to find the wires through the firewall, so that's not really an issue, but my question is, which battery (I have the 6.4L diesel), or does it really matter?

Otherwise, just looking for hints, tips, suggestions, and/or help!

 

Ed- i recomend using the same battery that any stock accesories, trailer brake, etc.. are using. DO NOT use the one that states "do not jump start" on the batt cable.

Not sure about your interior mount. No great locations really.

Where do you intend to mount the antenna?

KD7FCR

 

I made a bracket and mine in front of the middle front seat and below the shifter. I ran my wire under the seats, under the plastic on the rockers, through the kick panel on driver side, up around the back of everything and into the factory hole in the firewall then from outside in the bay I took it over master cylinder and along the wall till it hits my fusebox i installed. The fuse box is powered directly from the battery on the driver side, because that is your main battery.

But my motor is a 7.3 and my interior body may be different from yours...

 

KC8QVO did a great write up on his install, check this thread:

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...duty-6-4l.html

 

Yes,
Steve did a great job on this tech install.

It's preferable to not use the upfitter "pass thru" wires here. Use an independent dedicated power feed for your rig (the shorter the better).

Congrats on your license.
73's
KA1QNS

 

I have not noticed this on mine. I have jumped off cars with both batteries. Was this the case with the 7.3s? Which battery is not supposed to be used to jump?

 

Any quesions, just ask

Brent, I'm getting to yours.. might be a few.

 

Ah... but if he has a center console this is a great place, thats where I mounted mine. You can also use the over-head bin if you don't play with the front panel much. Once the memory channels are programmed the overhead bin would be a good place. Most radios use the button microphones these days so the memory channels can be changed with the push of a button on the mic.

 

Ed- my 7.3 batts aren't marked (or mentioned in owner's man) "don't jump". On my old 6.9, the pax side batt is "do not jump". the factory/dealer installed trailer tow harness ran off the driver side batt. I don't know why. I have actually confused myself now, so I should bow to more knowledgable. I haven't wired a radio in my 7.3 yey, but I will soon. I know I don't want either lead passing near the alternator which now sits high up on the driver's side. So I will run hot lead off the driver side. Which off course puts it near the fan motor. I know there's a diff in the batts, but I can think of it just now. Sorry.

 

Okay, lots of good stuff here. A lot to digest. I'll tackle a couple I can anyway. First, I don't have the center console like you have Steve. Just the flip up center seat thingy. So that rules out the mount like you did (very nice job by the way)! For running the wires, I did not plan on using the upfitter wires, though I did read somewhere else that they may work with slight modification. But I'll be running an independent feed wire as well. I'm not sure where the antenna is going yet. I have a mag mount, so I can be fairly flexible with it. As for the batteries, I haven't had a chance to really look yet. I will probably have plenty of time this weekend to look at the whole thing. I was seriously looking at the overhead console, especially since I don't use the storage area in there for anything...well, my Murgatroyd is in there guarding the truck, but he can sit somewhere else.

Looking forward to it. I managed to find a power supply and fired up the radio last night. Waaay cool. I listened to Fairbanks Alaska (from Houston) for quite a while. As I lived up there for 3 years (courtesy of the United States Air Force!), it was really neat listening to that. And all I had was my little mag mount antenna stuck by my bedroom window! Very cool. I'm looking forward to getting it all complete and actually using it.

Thanks all.

 

Ed,

Congratulations on your license and your new rig. Enjoy the hobby.

-73 de JR N5THV

 

Ed- sorry, I meant to say run the leads down the passenger side , whichever side is further from the alternator. But stay as clear of the heater/AC fan as you can.

If you want max amps and volts getting to the radio, don't use the upfitters. Do install an inline circuit breaker though, 15 amp? Just my thoughts. Don't pretend to be an expert.

CQB, CQB, CQB...

 

Sounds like you were using IRLP or EchoLink. Big difference between the Internet carrying your radio signal and the natural world - atmosphere (ionosphere more specifically).

 

That may be Steve. But I don't know enough about the radio or modes yet (just enough to pass the license test!) to know for sure. I'll be hooking up with some fellow HAM's in the neighborhood here soon and learning more about my radio and other general things soon. They're the ones that pushed me to get my license...by gum, they owe it to me now!

 

edjunior,
A couple of suggestions on the power connection to your new radio:

1. While most only fuse the positive (+) power lead I usually fuse both positive and negative sides; for protection and for isolation in the event of a nicked wire. The fuse is to protect the circuit (conductor) and the radio, and if your fuse is a 15A then don't use smaller than a #12AWG insulated copper conductor (I standardize on #10AWG but that's just me). Also look for any places that may pinch, scuff or otherwise damage the wire and protect/secure it accordingly. Also, route the wire so as to prevent any repetitive flexing at any one specific location. Repeated bending of a paper clip is a good analogy here and we all have seen what happens after you bend a paper clip too many times.

2. Connecting directly to the battery will require you to REMEMBER to turn off your radio when you exit the truck. If you leave the radio on, and don't run the truck for any great length of time you may end up with weak batteries. The current drain isn't much but given enough time it might be an issue. I hooked up my Alinco DR610 dual band (old and antiquated but it works) through an upfitter switch and if I forget to turn off the radio the upfitter circuit will remove power once the engine is shut down. It's a bother if you want to communicate while sitting, and I might change it to a direct connection once I get used to the truck.

As a side note on mounting the radio, mine has a remote head and I used "industrial strength" hook/loop fasteners and mounted it just below the Traction Control button. It was just lying on a tissue box in front of the center console so this is a definite improvement. If I have to move the radio head then hopefully some Goo Gone will remove the adhesive without damaging the plastic. The hand-mike has a loop-type mounting instead of the old microphone mounting clip so I got a 3M adhesive hook to hang it on.

Enjoy the truck and your new ham radio adventure.

73,

de KC8RXQ/Ed