AGAIN!!!!!
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AGAIN!!!!!
Today I pulled into the drive way and the truck DIED again, and wil not restart. I pulled the connector off the ICP, then tried to start still nothing waiting for it to cool down to check the IPR. I have only had the truck running for about two weeks and its been going good till now. What I have done to the truck is new oil cooler, IPR, EGR delete, new HPOP and LPOP. What could it be now plus I had my FICM gone through.
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Thought I might add that the other day I got on it to shoot thru a light and when I let off it died so I just restarted it on the roll she cranked right up. So would it still be the dummy plugs or something else.
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ok today why the truck was cold I trid starting it it cranked for a lil bit then almost started and nothing after that I will have my buddy bring his code scanner over tomorrow and code scan it. Any other ideas??
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Joined: Jul 2007
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From: central valley, CA
+1
There is a kit that contains both dummy plugs and stand pipes(6E7Z-9A332-B). Both can leak on the high pressure oil side. Also did you get an update STC fitting on the HPOP. That has been known to leak as well.
There is a kit that contains both dummy plugs and stand pipes(6E7Z-9A332-B). Both can leak on the high pressure oil side. Also did you get an update STC fitting on the HPOP. That has been known to leak as well.
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Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2010
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From: Woodbridge, Ontario, CA
Judging by that response, it sounds like you've never had valve covers off this vehicle yet, which tells me I'm likely correct in my initial reply to your post. When you do eventually figure out how to remove your valve covers, get your 10mm allen key out to remove the dummy rail plugs and look very closely at the lower d-ring.
By the way, the replacement ones, will require a 12mm allen key to install. And when you do, torque it to 60 ft-lbs.
By the way, the replacement ones, will require a 12mm allen key to install. And when you do, torque it to 60 ft-lbs.
Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2010
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From: Woodbridge, Ontario, CA
Hint hint. A 12mm "stubby" ratcheting type wrench comes in very handy for accessing those bolts/studs that are situated in very tight areas. Another hint hint. When undoing the the 10mm nut fasteners (ie glow plug control module bracket, oil dipstick, transmission fluid dipstick, FICM mounting brackets etc.), use a backup wrench to hold the valve cover stud underneath in order to prevent it from turning, as you attempt to crack the nuts loose. Once you have the valve covers off, look around very closely at the high pressure oil rail to see if you can figure out what I'm referring to.
Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2010
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From: Woodbridge, Ontario, CA
No you don't have to. When installing the standpipe on the passenger side bank of cylinders, insert the lower half first, and seat it into the branch tube. Then install the upper half. This way you won't be fighting with the heater box.