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1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

Heater problem after carb swap

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Old Oct 5, 2010 | 06:29 PM
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Heater problem after carb swap

I just finished swapping the 2bbl for a 4bbl on my '81 F100 with 302 , my first significant engine modification - runs good . Now my heater doesn't work . Cleared the heater core and water flows through . Water pump and thermostat were replaced while doing the carb swap and it runs at proper temp . Replaced the pressure cap with a known good one . The heater hoses don't get warm . Here is what I think I may have done . To hook up the temp sender , vacuum control device and the heater hose , I chose to hook the heater hose on the thermostat cap , on the radiator side of the thermostat , because it seemed easier . Could that cause no flow through the heater core ? Thanks for ideas .
 
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Old Oct 5, 2010 | 07:38 PM
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Last edited by parr4; Oct 5, 2010 at 07:44 PM. Reason: Bad URL
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Old Oct 5, 2010 | 07:44 PM
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Old Oct 5, 2010 | 09:00 PM
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Originally Posted by oldgrezmonke
...I chose to hook the heater hose on the thermostat cap , on the radiator side of the thermostat , because it seemed easier . Could that cause no flow through the heater core ? Thanks for ideas .
If I'm understanding you correctly, yes, this will cause your problem.

The coolant needs to flow from the engine block (and only the engine block) to
the heater core. Once that coolant heats up and the thermostat opens, the fluid
then also flows through the radiator (to cool it down).

 
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Old Oct 5, 2010 | 09:58 PM
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Originally Posted by ctubutis


If I'm understanding you correctly, yes, this will cause your problem.

The coolant needs to flow from the engine block (and only the engine block) to
the heater core. Once that coolant heats up and the thermostat opens, the fluid
then also flows through the radiator (to cool it down).

That's about what I thought , that there was some difference in flow on the other side of the thermostat - in effect suction instead of pressure . The link provided by parr4 shows that the normal flow is to the water pump housing and must be from the other end . So the way I had it hooked up suction met suction so nothing happens . I will have to spend some time tomorrow shuffling items around . At least , otherwise , the carb swap went well . Thanks to both .
 
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Old Oct 6, 2010 | 05:42 AM
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It's not so much that you aren't connected to a hot water source. The water coming out of the thermostat is just as hot as the water coming out of the engine. The problem is that by attaching downstream of the thermostat you've connected both sides of the heater core to the same pressure water. You need the pressure drop across the thermostat to force water flow through the heater core.

I'll bet if you pinched the upper radiator hose a little the heater would warm up quickly. (Not that I recommend that as a long term solution.)
 
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