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Is there some trick to getting the rear rotors off a SRW truck? I backed off the ebrake pads but they still seem to hang up some how. Other than a BFH, cause i would like to reuse them after turning and they work better when they are round,does anybody have a better way? I have thought of using a big *** puller? Roy
PB Blast and a BFH I use a brass hammer and hit it and turn it and hit it and turn it. Sometimes I drink a beer and hit it a little harder you get the picture they do come off but a pita some times.
Put some padding on the face like a big towel folded up and hit it with a dead-blow hammer. Start at 12 o'clock, 6, 3, 9, and change it up. It will come loose eventually.
IDK bud I left mine on til I had to get them of BFH and PBblaster lots of choice words. they fit tight on that hub & darn near weld themselves to the flange the lug bolts come through.
Make sure you pay particular attention to your emergency brake pads and hardware. I've seen rust so bad inside the rotor that it screwed up the emergency brakes, it did on my wifes Expy, had to put all new pads and hardware on it.
Put some padding on the face like a big towel folded up and hit it with a dead-blow hammer. Start at 12 o'clock, 6, 3, 9, and change it up. It will come loose eventually.
Hope this helps.
Edit: And yes like said above, lots of PB Blaster
OK, i get the BFH part, but were you able to have them turned after pounding on them? I do like the beer part but i`m thinkin this is going to take a few cold ones.
OK, i get the BFH part, but were you able to have them turned after pounding on them? I do like the beer part but i`m thinkin this is going to take a few cold ones.
How many miles on those rotors. When I did brakes for the first time at about 98k the rotors were to thin to have turned. Had to buy 4 new rotors.
I used a piece of hardwood (oak) to pry them off. Find a good spot to pry a little, turn the rotor a bit and pry a little, etc...etc...etc. Once you get one off mic it or take it to the machine shop to see if it's turnable. If not the other one won't be turnable either and they both will need replacing. Then you won't have to go easy on the second one and just use a BFH on it.
That's why I left them on til they had to come off.
If you have a micrometer you can check them in place. If they're not turnable you don't have to wory about damaging them while removing.
Minimum thickness is right on the rotor. If you only have a couple of mm's to work with remember approximately half that amount (maybe a little more on one side then the other depending on condition) would be for each side. If you have to get them turned to close or to the minimum thickness you maybe should just replace them. The more material removed the less heat dissipation and the chances that they will warp is greater. Just sayin'.
If you have a micrometer you can check them in place. If they're not turnable you don't have to wory about damaging them while removing.
Minimum thickness is right on the rotor. If you only have a couple of mm's to work with remember approximately half that amount (maybe a little more on one side then the other depending on condition) would be for each side. If you have to get them turned to close or to the minimum thickness you maybe should just replace them. The more material removed the less heat dissipation and the chances that they will warp is greater. Just sayin'.
Point taken. Out comes the heavy artillary and a few cold ones.