1973 F100 2wd 302 auto

So i read through all 36 pages of the "lowered dent attitude" thread and i was impressed at all of it and learned a lot about dumping the trucks on the ground.

I finally got a good bead on the direction i want to go with my truck, and i want to lower it just a little bit in the front and a little bit in the back to eat up a little wheel gap.

Im only looking on doing a 1-2 inch drop probably more around 1.75-2 inches front and back... i dont want to buy 1500 dollars worth of kits and ibeams that are going to go to low for my taste.

Suggestions? or proven methods?

 

Anything is possible if you can weld/fabricate. For relative low buck solutions I would consider Paul Horton's Welder Series for the front.

For the rear, lowering blocks or a shackle kit. IIRC, the latter is like $260 from LMC.

 

im not a welder or fabricater by any means, and when i looked at that page, i kinda made a duck face and clicked back to this page.

 

where did you find that other form..i looked it up and it sent a link to this one

 

dont search, just go through the first few pages of the forum here and youll see it

 

I was told you can just flip the mounts in the back and cut the springs in the front for a cheap lowering job. Is that not a popular method?

 

Hmm. It wouldda helped if it was stated outright that you were pretty much looking for a bolt-on kit.

In any case, in terms of the LMC shackles (I stated above) lower the truck 4 inches - too much for what you're looking for. An axle flip (axle on top of the leaf springs) would be about 3 inches and level out the stance but you'll sacrifice suspension travel. Furthermore, the axle could hit the frame unless it is notched.

Cutting the front springs is typically discouraged with twin I-beams but one-half to one coil would likely be okay. You'll have to get it realigned to correct the camber.

It's too bad you don't weld... I believe it's a very worthwhile skill to learn because it can save TONS of money and really unleash creativity. Plus, you become less of a slave to what is offered in the retail market.

 

i have a relative that lives close that can weld, but i dont know if i trust him on my truck...

On average if i cut 1 coil from the spring in the front, how much drop would i be looking at?

and can i remove a leaf from the rear end as well? ive read a little about this but nobody ever says how much lower the truck goes... i dont plan on towing or hauling anything so im not remotly worried about bottoming out.

 

OK. I dig it.

Cutting off one coil will garner the height to the next coil plus a little compression- likely around 2 inches. Use a cut-off wheel and not a torch as the latter will alter the steel's molecular structure. A little heat (cut-off wheel) is okay but a cutting flame is not. I suggest starting with a half coil and reinstalling them to see what it looks like. Keep in mind that the spring should be indexed so take a detailed look at how they are currently installed to ensure the coil ends are properly seated.

Removing a leaf will lower it by the thickness of the leaf. This'll loosen up the rear end because the spring pack will become softer and handling may be negatively affected. Load and towing capacity will definitely be affected. Some hot rodders using transverse leafs remove every other spring. For example, On a five-leaf set up, numbers 2 and 4 are removed and the spring pack reassembled to lower the vehicle by up to an inch. On our rigs, removing leafs will likely increase wheel hop under heavy acceleration or heavy braking while downshifting. I have experienced it on my 4-speed 65 'Stang and plan to install Cal-Trac tracton bars.

The LMC catalog states that the stock stance is about 2 inches higher in the rear. You didnt mention if you wanted to have the truck level or with a little rake. I'd take a look into the rear shackle set to see if cut coil and 4-inch drop (using the shackle kit) in the back will accomplish your goal.

Here's an option for the rear but I don't know if anyone makes it - reverse eye leaf springs. The spring eye is made in reverse - visually, it curves over instead of snailing upwards. If you want to see what I mean, visit Mustangsplus.com. They offer reverse and mid-eye leafs.

 

I've seen people heat up the front coils with a torch to allow them to soften and shrink to get the stance wanted. What i had planned was what you are saying cut 1/2 coil up front and maybe a spring flip in the back but i like the raked look so i may just cut a coil up front.

that's my personal opinion for cheap lowering.

 

for sure, ill be keeping the rake. was just trying to eat a little wheel gap up with simple means. ive read probably 30-40 different threads since i last posted and have a bit more understanding of the fords suspension. i have lowered a couple of my recent vehicles but they were cut and dry with springs/shocks and struts. i have yet to deal with leaf springs

the coil cutting doesnt seem like the best approach, but is effective both in application and my bank account which is appealing, im thinking about it for at least a week before i do anything.

The leaf springs bug me a bit but if i can take out 1 or 2 of the leafs and get the desired level (while keeping the rake) then it seems that will work for now. any specific leafs i should take out first? or is it just trial and error? id rather have a game plan before i start than spend a day figuring this out...

for some reason trucks without a rake of some degree bother me... i dunno what it is, maybe looks less aggressive?

also whats the issue with getting this truck aligned? from all the threads ive read, some are skeptical about certain shops not being able to preform this???? all the same to me i guess but im no mechanic...

 

i think dropping a spring is and easy way to do it and by cutting a half coil and doing a spring flip in the back you'll be okay to keep the look you want and it'll possibly handle better. but that's the cheapest way i know of to get by.