1999 4cyl ranger with slightly over 100k miles won't start. The truck turns over fine but still won't start. It has new spark plugs and cables, and isn't "throwing" any codes. From reading, we think it could be the fuel filter, fuel pump, or EGR valve (but not sure that the EGR valve would make it not start). It's been running a little rough the past couple monts, acting sluggish during acceleration, which is another reason we suspect fuel issues. Is there any way to know what the problem is without having to replace everything using the guess and check method? Any other suggestions of what the problem could be? Thanks

 

Someone told me that one way to see if it was the fuel pump is to open the gas tank and have someone turn on the ignition without cranking the engine. They said if you couldn't hear a hum through the gas tank fill port it meant the fuel pump was bad...Any truth to this?

 

check fuel rail for fuel pressure, will it start with starting fluid? If so then check timing, spark, spark plug wires for correct location, timing belt may have slipped.

 

as suggested ..it is pretty simple. first make sure the timing belt did not break. Then determine if you have spark and or fuel. A $10 spark tester would work.. you also could spary starter fluid into the TB and see if you get it to fire. I cant tell if you tried to read the codes or not. check for codes even if the cel is off. if your crankshaft positioning sensor went it might have a pending code.

 

The timing belt is still in tact. I haven't checked to make sure we're getting a spark or not because all the wires plugs are brand new. I also plugged the computer in and it did not return any codes. I did check the valve on the fuel rail and there was no pressure built up in it. I tried turning the engine over to attempt to build prssure, checked it again, and still nothing. I am planning on just replacing the fuel filter since the truck was acting sluggish during acceleration leading up to this and hope for the best. Is there a way to check the fuel pump without just replacing it to see if that was the problem?

 

normally you would do a fuel pressure test. you can borrow the tester from auto parts store or buy one. I bought mine for $20 at harbor freight. Actron makes a good one for under $50. in your case if the pressure is almost non existent and as long as you know there is power to the fuel pump......you probably need a new pump. can you hear it at all? did you swap relays to see if that worked? before you do anything swap out the fuel filter.

 

In many cases Removing the Bed Helps in the aiding of repairs. ie. Fuel pump replacement, hanger and shackle replacement, etc

1)the fuel cap filler is held on with 3 bolts 7mm?

2)there is an electrical disconnect at the bumper for the taillights.

3)The bed is held on with 6 torx 55 bolts. 2 of the bolts closest to the cab are longer than the other 4. I recommend buying 2 torx 55 sockets in case one breaks
4 or 5 of the bolts can be accessed from underneath and should be hit with a rust penetrator
I recommend at least one of the following, impact wrench, 1/2 ratchet with a pipe or a 1/2 breaker bar. it takes some muscle to remove the bolts.

4)The bed can be slid down for a fuel pump replacement or removed my 2 Men or one man and a cherry picker.

5) In the event you are removing the bed for a fuel pump replacement. MAKE SURE YOU DISCONNECT THE NEG BATTERY TERMINAL.

6) You should change your fuel filter while the bed is off. tool required or equivalent 5/16 FF performance tool W83130

7) I replaced my bolts with regular hex bolts. Ford wanted $16 a bolt. I ordered my online for less than $3 each. the 2 closest to the cab are 12m x 1.75 x 120mm and the other 4 are 12m x 1.75 x 100mm

8) I changed the rear hangers and shackles on my rear leaf springs. I used Dorman 722-010 and 722-001. all 4 pieces were less than $100. They come in a kit with everything you need, bolts etc. I used a grinder to grind the heads of the bolts off. this only took about 10 minutes a hanger. I had a dewault grinder and bought 2 metal grinding wheels at the home depot. I only used 1 they were about $3. I had a hard time getting the bushing out of the eye of the spring. I finally decided to use my drill and a good 1/4 bit. I drilled the rubber out that was in the middle of the bushing. the rest just slide out. I greased up the new bushing and temporarily put the bolt in and hammered it in the eye. You don't want to torque the bolts that attach the spring to the shackle until the truck is on the ground.

 

I haven't checked or swapped the relays yet. I think I'll start with checking those and see if that works because we can't hear the pump when we turn the ignition on; leading me to believe either we're not getting power to the pump, or it's gone bad. If we end up having to replace the pump, can we do that without having to remove the bed?

 

dont forget to check the inertia switch on the firewall. i doubt that is the issue because this problem has slowly been developing but it is still worth checking. it is prety much a unanimous decision that removing the bed is the easiest way. You also get to check that it is working and there are no leaks. You can't do that by dropping the tank. removing the bed is not all that tough especially if you have someone to help slide it down.

 

ccmeigs; removing the bed is the easiest way to replace the fuel pump.

 

Dropping the tank from underneath is not that difficult, there's two straps holding it up.

 

Powersmoked, What brand fuel pump hanger assy. do you recommend? ccmeigs, Did you end up replacing the fuel pump?

 

I don't have a recommendation other than a Motorcraft would be best but they are usually more than double the price and most people don't mother. if all you wanted was a recommendation fine.............but if you need help diagnosing your issue please give us more info include year etc. maybe we can help

 

Thx Powersmoked, I will start a new thread as not to highjack this one