Bleeding just isn't necessary. You don't even have to pull the thermostat but its a lot quicker if you do. I use tap water for all the flushing except for the last 12 gallons which are distilled, but the tap water runs out clear before I start with distilled, and my tap water is quite excellent. If you have crappy tap water then use all distilled--about 16-20 gallons.

 

OK, I have the VC-9 circulating at 1175 RPM (bricks on pedal LOL). I read where some folks say it's better to drive it at highway speed. Do you think I should?

On edit: WTH, I'm going for a ride.

 

Thanks for the help!! I just wanted to make sure it wasn't going to trap air in the system or anything like that. Think I'll try to tackle it next weekend. Also,I'm only flushing to replace my coolant,not because of contamination of any kind. My ECT,EOT differential is good and my coolant looks as clean and clear as it did when it was new. Do you think it would be a good idea to use the vc-9 or can I bypass that step and just flush a few times with distilled and put new coolant in? Thanks in advance!!

 

Flush with vc-9. Even if your coolant is clear doesn't mean there isn't crap in there. Mine was clear too before I did the vc-9. It wasnt so clear after that though. It'll pull buildup and rust out of there so I wouldn't skip out on the vc-9 flush.

 

with one of these....
RADKITPLUSA, Vacuum/Filler, Cooling System

 

Thanks Cheezit. Assuming I actually owned one of those , where does it hook up?

 

to an air hose. but I think you want to know how it hooks to the truck....
it hooks into the degas bottle and pulls a vacuum 25in hg on the system. works great.
IMO not the mosty practical tool for the once a year dyi guy's. but thats what I use daily.
when doing this at home make sure to run the heater when filling the cooling system. when the air out of the ducts is warm you have normally removed the air from the heater core.

 

I had the heater on while running the VC-9 and will leave it on. Should I mess with the heater core backflush you think?

 

in most cases wont be needed. heater cores flow or they dont.
JUst an fyi a new heater core is something like $85.00 and takes about 30 min to install.

 

Thanks for the help. Think I'll do it just to be safe!!

 

Okie doke, skipping heater core backflush. Got some Simple Green circulating thru right now. I think the worst is over!

 

My Ford Premium Gold coolant was only a year old and I decided to do the VC9. The coolant looked new when I drained it. After running the VC9 with distilled water, I drained it again and it was coal black. Better use the VC9. I used 48 gallons of distilled water [12 flushes], refilled with 3.4 gallons of Ford Premium Gold coolant, topped off with distilled water and when tested it still shows over a 50% content of coolant vs distilled water. I pulled the drivers side drain plug on each flush. This tells me it is almost impossible to get all of the old coolant out. I had also disconnected the lower radiator hose several times. I did not pull the thermostat or the passenger side drain plug.

 

WOW,that's ALOT of flushing!! Did your water come out crystal clear after all the flushes?

 

Also,did you flush with the thermostat in or out? Just wondering if the thermostat could possibly effect the amount of flushing needed to completely clean the system?

 

The job goes quicker if you remove the thermostat because you don't have to wait for it to warm up, plus you can drain it right away without getting scalded because the flush water never gets hotter than about 125 F or so.

I pulled everything but RH block plug and also observed about 3 to 4 quarts left in the system each time.