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75 F-250 ignition trouble

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Old Oct 2, 2010 | 07:02 PM
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75 F-250 ignition trouble

Ok so here is the run down: 1975 F-250 Ranger This model didn't have duro-spark. it was set up with ignition breaker points. My carb went bad so I had it rebuilt and I decided that while I had 'er down I would convert to Accel points eliminator. Long story short the rotor didn't fit under the cap so I went back to points. I followed Accels instructions and removed the distributor to install the thing. I installed my new points and condenser I had the engine at TDC with the rotor pointing at #1 and I replaced the distributor back into the engine. It didn't fit all the way but after cranking it around (Manually) twice more it was back at TDC rotor point at #1 and snug as a bug though I do believe it was a couple degrees or so BTDC.
While I had the distributor out some kind of plastic spacer came out of the distributor from under the main plate. (Link to the picture)
Fell out of | Flickr - Photo Sharing! Didn't think much of it until I got every thing back together and had no spark. I ran the gambit checking things. From the ignition to coil 12.44 volts. from coil out 12.44 volts Checked resistance to coil about 0.4 but thats when it took me for a spin I found my distributor is grounded and I'm pulling a ground from the coil wire to the distributor whether the points are opened or not. So my though is this plastic pin / spacer some sort of insulator that fell out? If you can help I sure would appreciate it. If you want to view the other photo's from this adventure in shade tree mechanics... Flickr: SethAPrather's Photostream
 
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Old Oct 2, 2010 | 07:29 PM
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I can't see where the spacer goes to anything in the dist.

Take your wires loose off the points, and see if the wires are still grounded. If they are, you must have a short to ground to one of the wires, or the condensor is shorted if that wire is still grounded.

If the ground went away, make sure the points are open, or stick a piece of cardboard inbetween the points, and check for a ground at the points terminal. If they are still grounded, check that the insulating block where the terminal is located is ok.

That how the points work. They ground, and then unground the negative of the coil. The + of the coil is there all the time the key is in run. The grounding and ungrounding of the negative terminal of the coil is what makes the spark.
 
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Old Oct 2, 2010 | 08:26 PM
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Thanks Dave! just not sure of one thing you mentioned... the Insulating block... Not sure what your refering too.
"If the ground went away, make sure the points are open, or stick a piece of cardboard inbetween the points, and check for a ground at the points terminal. "If they are still grounded, check that the insulating block where the terminal is located is ok."
Regards,
Seth
 
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Old Oct 3, 2010 | 12:57 PM
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Where the wires connect to the points, it has a plastic insulator.



You can see in the above picture the terminal and the arm are mounted in plastic. The mounting holes are bolted to the dist, which should have a ground wire hooked to the plate the points mount to. So when the points come together, they are connecting the wires on the terminal to ground.
 
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Old Oct 8, 2010 | 08:05 AM
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Dave,
I figured it out last week and should have responded. It was the condenser grounding out againt the bottom plate of the distributor. It has a U-type connector that I had placed on the insulator block with the legs of the U pointing up. the top of that connector is unusually tall and it was hitting the bottom plate. I spun it around and presto change-o I was no longer grounding out. Thanks for all of your help.
 
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