So my truck seems to be having eclectically problems. I have aftermarket head lights that each have 6 LED'Sthat run across the headlight. well the passenger headlight will some times have 3 lite (most the time now) and once in awhile have all 6.

My truck after sitting for awhile the battery drains and cranks really slow to start. Barely start but always starts. I also have a trouble code that i think is related, i think its 1670. something about higher then 33 volts, and from what i hear that is the IDM??

My over head display, only the two buttons light up, but the actually digital display does not work anymore.

My back up sensors will sometimes work, but the off button for it is usually always on.

HELP.

I want to nip this in the but and get this all fixed.

Could this just be a ground?

Need help, especially with the battery before it gets to cold around here, it could then be imposable to start my truck

Thanks
Michael

 

Do you have a multi-meter? If so, check the volts of each battery with the engine off. Write that down and then start your truck and check them again and write that down. Then turn on everything you possibly can, wiper, A/C on high, high beams, hazards etc and measure the voltage again.

Post back with the results.

 

Mike - theres a thread on here somewhere about the overhead console not working. In certain models (prob yours) a few of the chips on the circuit board come loose. If you take the display down and dig into it I think theres 6 black chips in a group and usually the 2 center ones break loose. All you have to do is resolder them and it should work.

The LEDs in the headlights are most likely a crappy soldering job from the factory or its the first LED thats gone (or going) bad and causes the rest to not work/flicker/etc. Ive seen that quite a few times.

Your battery issue could be due to one of the batteries being bad. If ones bad, it will usually drain the other one. That is if you don't have a drain somewhere. I don't know anything about the IDM so it could be that as well. Just givin ya the other options.

As for your sensors, that I really don't know. I would have to imagine theres a connector for that harness somewhere near the rear bumper. Check and clean that. Thats my only thought on that. Keep us posted tho!

 

unless the regulator is not working correctly and over volting things in his truck causing things to fail. Anything above 16v is bad, 18v is dangerous

 

This sounds like something is loose inside of the headlight itself.

You may be over charging and fried your batteries.

This is usually a loose resister inside the display, I fixed mine and did Duck fans this summer at RRE.

I think that AE can scan these. Try cleaning the sockets If one goes out they all go out.

check all your connections including grounds, then take a DMM and see what you are putting out for voltage. I agree with Vis over voltage is very bad.

 

did the volt meter test and heres my results

After truck had been sitting for about 3 hrs it was already draining

Battery#1 10.67
Battery#2 10.70

then started the truck with just about everything on

Battery #1 13.47
Barrery#2 13.59

 

Did you measure the battery voltage at idle without all the stuff turned on? I am surprised it started with only 10.7 volts before cranking.

Can you tell me about the 18 k diffuser mod? What is that?

 

not sure excatly what the 18K fuser does, it came with the truck. But to my understanding its a fuel fooler. IHas a little **** to increase and decrease the fuel on the dash.

 

It is called a 10k mod, I believe this is what you are talking about.

For your drain, when you get up tomorrow morning, pop your hood and place your hand on your alternator, if it is warm, there is your drain.

 

Good tip from Pat. Check your alternator like he said and you might find an issue. If it's hot to the touch after sitting all night then it's probably got a bad diode or resistor in the alternator. Something is draining your batteries so you need to isolate the source of the drain and then fix it.

If I had something like that on my dash (18k mod) and was having electrical problems then I would want to rule that out as the cause. I'm sorta stumped here because I have no idea how that works or if it's even possible for it to cause the symptoms that you are having.

Sorry, I'm not much help on this..

 

The 10 k mod fools the fuel presure as to thinking it is lower, so by adding the resistor it trys to increase the presure.

 

So i checked the alternator after it stay for like 10-12 hours< no heat.

took volt meter to battery 12.xx volts then pulled battary for the night. Put back in moring and they held there boltage. battary are good and have been ruled out. So the truck is what is drainging it.

So yesterday, truck be sitting for almost 24hrs, start it up go fed horses come home, let it sir for a hour go to start it. turn the key let glow plugs warm up, everything looks fine. Then turn key to starting positions, everything in the truck, dash lights, cd player, ac/heat buttons,EVERYTHING, dims really quick until no more illumination, go to turn the key, NOTHING. tried it a couple more time nothing. check battery 12.xx volts. then about ten mins go to start my truck and it starts right up.....WTF!

HELP I NEED TO FIX THIS ASAP!!!

 

ahh... This issue sounds batter cable related. You need to check all your cables. Make sure there is no bulging in the cables, no corrosion, clean the terminals and the starter terminal.
For the heck of it clean the alternator terminals too.

Bottom line here is that you are not getting enough current to the electrical system and as a result of this you are stressing your starter and wearing it out faster.

Check negative, positive, any grounds straps you see and make sure everything is tight and clean.

 

Nice thread. Was helpful to me, too. I've got a question... Battery indicator on steady, radio stops working, dome lights won't come on, ABS light goes out, headlights almost completely out by the time I pull in my driveway.

So this morning I feel the alternator and it is about 'room temperature', but definitely not cold. Wouldn't say 'hot' though.

I unhooked batteries, carried them back to NAPA. They test them. One is bad. They were purchased just 3 mos ago. 1st: Do I really need to replace the 3 mo old 'good' one too? 2nd: I don't have a multimeter. Is there a chance my alternator is OK and it was just this bad battery that was the culprit?

THANKS for any and all help!

 

If your trouble code is indeed P1670 than that is a EF signal not detected (Open/shorted EF circuit) elecroinc feedback.