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Back it up against a pole and use a chain block to slowly pull it back into place. Make someting to cradle over the lip of the back panel to attach the hook, line it with rubber or cardboard to prevent scratching the paint if that's a concern. That's how I'd handle it any ways. Good luck and go slow.
This is especially a problem for those of us with the F-2/F-3 Express beds since reproduction headboards are not available. I'm not there yet myself, but have thought of using a similar technique as described by 56panelford. Besides the bends seen in the top rails, there are generally also bends and stretched areas in the interior area of the panel. I know that metal shrinking techniques exist, and will be schooling myself on these as well. I'd like to hear more of what others have done to remedy this problem. Stu
I just replaced mine. But, it's an F1 and the headboards are available in reproduction.
I am wondering how difficult it would be to pull the dish out of it some, then cover it on the inside with a full sheet metal panel cover that you weld in around the edges?
It would be flat sheet except for about a 1/2" 90 degree lip all the way around.
That'd be fine for a custom or other none stock remedy, but wouldn't be appropriate for a stock restoration. The metal shrinking technique that I'm most interested in learning about involves the heating of dime sized areas, quenching with water/air to pull the stretched metal back in, then hammer flattening and grinding of the high spots. I've wondered if that messes with the beads that are factory rolled into the headboards, and whether it can result in oil canning if done by a ham fisted amateur - like me. I think I've read that CDs on the technique are available from Ron Covall (sp?). Probably a search over on the body work forum would direct me to the source of the CDs. Stu
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