SUSPENSION ?????'s
SUSPENSION ?????'s
Another thread got me thinki9ng about this
I have a 72 F250. The original engine was a 302. It now has a 428.
The truck has the " raked look " where the rear is about 2-3 inches higher than the front.
As far as I know the suspension is original. No air shocks, no extra leafs in the back.
I'm thinking that since it had a 302 the front springs are too soft for the 428 but I was told by someone that the coi lsprings on F250's are the same regardless of the engine size.
I would like to get it level if possible.
Anybody know if there are in fact different coils depending on engine size?
I have a 72 F250. The original engine was a 302. It now has a 428.
The truck has the " raked look " where the rear is about 2-3 inches higher than the front.
As far as I know the suspension is original. No air shocks, no extra leafs in the back.
I'm thinking that since it had a 302 the front springs are too soft for the 428 but I was told by someone that the coi lsprings on F250's are the same regardless of the engine size.
I would like to get it level if possible.
Anybody know if there are in fact different coils depending on engine size?
302's were not installed in F250's until 1980.
The engine code is the 4th digit of the VIN.
1968/72 F100/350: A = 240 1V I-6 / B = 300 1V I-6 / G = 302 2V (1969/72 F100 only) / H = 390 2V / Y = 360 2V.
The engine code is the 4th digit of the VIN.
1968/72 F100/350: A = 240 1V I-6 / B = 300 1V I-6 / G = 302 2V (1969/72 F100 only) / H = 390 2V / Y = 360 2V.
Suspension
What springs would you recommend to get it raised so the truck is level? I'm also not sure what this will do to my front end as it appears when I jack up the front end the wheels kick in a little. Not much, but I don't want problems with the front end either so if there are things I need to do / consider when/if I do it. I know with the twin I beams it can be an issue with adjusting the camber/ caster?
Any knowledge on doing this safely and correctly would be most appreciated.
I just went and did a search for info on what I asked above. All the threads discussed 4X4 front end issues. One thing that left me scratching my head was discussion of Twin I beam suspension on a 4X4????

I thought T-I beam was only two wheel drive?
Weight and springs change ride height and camber
When I put in an aluminum V8 I had to switch to 6-cyl springs to put the ride height and camber back. I'm not sure what heavier springs are available.
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My thread is probably the one that got you thinking about this. If your springs are original, there's a good chance that they are tired. Front springs are loaded all of the time, where rear springs have little load unless you're carrying something. In looking at spring part numbers, there are different springs based on engine and GVW. My truck is a Camper Special with 8100 GVW, the highest available in the F-250. I'm going to get new springs rated for my truck, and I'm going to a six cylinder engine. It will be interesting to see how the truck sits with that combination, and what affect that has on my camber and caster. That's the problem with the Twin I-beam set-up. There's no adjustment, other than physically bending the beams to get the camber in range. There probably aren't many shops around with the know-how and equipment to do that. I've come up with a design for adjusting camber, but haven't worked out what to do about caster.
I have have been to shops promising to correct my caster three times and I doubt they did anything to correct it. After my second "adjustment", I paid another shop to check the work they measured way too little caster to self center.
I am considering making the tool described in the original Ford manual. Unfortunately, it will cost real money for the amount of steel needed and I'll most likely have it water cut. It seems it would have to be ~3/4" thick in order to bend the beam without the tool giving out first. I gather some guys heat the beam but I do not want to undermine the forging.
I am considering making the tool described in the original Ford manual. Unfortunately, it will cost real money for the amount of steel needed and I'll most likely have it water cut. It seems it would have to be ~3/4" thick in order to bend the beam without the tool giving out first. I gather some guys heat the beam but I do not want to undermine the forging.
...unless you change the ride height with taller or stiffer springs. As you change the ride height, both the camber and caster change. They bend the axles to change the camber. I don't know how you'd change the caster- bend the radius rods? That, or twist the axle outboard of the radius rod attachment point. The Twin I-Beam is a rugged but crude beast.
Been discussed numerous times. They even make relocated frame pivot brackets to accommodate for higher lifts that move the wheels inboard as the geometry changes
Autofab lift beams
Autofab pivot brackets
Autofab lift beams
Autofab pivot brackets
The above kit is for an F100. The F250 kit is more expensive, and it still isn't the right one for my truck. I'm not sure on the OP's truck. In my case, I'd have to send my beams to them to be modified. When you start adding it all up, it gets pretty pricey, although it is the way to go for a properly aligned, raised front end.
FLgargoyle, it does add up$$$. They do make the kit for your truck with the 8100 GVW btw. John at Autofab will request several measurements before taking the order. My truck had the dual front and rear shocks on the front i beams, which was another modification they made. Here's the thread if I haven't already shared it before. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...1971+F250+lift






It now has a 428.




