Put your old CPS back in and retry. PCM won't command for high oil pressure until proper pulses and rpm is detected by the CPS. You might of fixed your problem by replacing the IPR and ICP but created one by replacing the CPS. Cheap test at least.

 

Is the "new grey" cps you used from IH?
Also, to see if your injector O-rings are bad you can pull the fuel filter and look in the fuel bowl. If you see oil in the fuel or little pieces of rubber then that's a good indicator that they are bad although the absence of those things does not necessarily mean that they are good.

 

A simple test would be to pull the valve covers & watch the spill spouts on the injectors while cranking. they should all be evacuating oil at the same pace .(Poppet issue)

Also , look for oil bubbling up from the base of an injector or two (leaking O rings )

You can also simulate High pressure oil with a hand held grease gun (a new one) , to pressurize one head at a time ,with the other blocked off . Or , you can block one line to the head at a time & install a gauge to read pressure in the heads one at a time .You can isolate the HPOP this way by dead heading both lines , one with a gauge in it to see if the pump & the IPR are working. If the 150 HP pressure is correct , the IDM will not fire the injectors without at least 500 psi.

Did you check voltage at the IPR Itself ?....

 

Thanks everyone for the help.

To respond to some of the advice, the CPS is a new Ford F7TZ-12K073-B. I get a few hundred RPM when cranking so appears the CPS is working. Fuel bowl is clean with no oil or rubber. Have not tried the voltage at the IPR or pulled the valve covers to check the injectors and have not tried directly to pressure check the HPOP or IPR. Will have to try those things. Thanks for all the help...

 

if you are gettting no oil pressure to the hp oil rail then your ipr, computer, wiring harness is bad, apply 12v to the ipr wires and try to start it, be careful cuz if it fires up, it will run wide open untill you unhook the wires! so be ready. i have measured the pressures before and the hpop was making about 400-600 while just cranking without the ipr being hooked up to the wiring harness. also unhook one of the black fuel hoses going to the fpr and crank to see if it is getting fuel there, could be a plugged hose from the fuel filter bowl to the fuel pump

 

have you tried a different idm from a friends truck? or hook your computer to ur friends truck so you dont burn up their idm by accident lol

 

After thinking about this a bit more , it can also be an issue with the PCM if it is intermittent

 

Testing HPOP pressure Click here

 

You've got 150 psi while cranking. You need a minimum of 500 psi. Did your buddy monitor IPR duty % while cranking? How quickly did the pressure jump up to 150?

The way it works is you turn the key and the HPOP drive gear spins with the motor. At this point it either pumps oil or runs out of oil, or doesn't pump. The HPOP is capable of pumping more oil than your injectors can use, so there is a drain hole that sends excess oil back to the pan. The IPR is what closes off this drain hole to force more oil to the injectors when needed.

150 psi of oil is more than your LPOP will put out, and since the HPOP reservoir isn't running dry, it sounds like the oil is being pumped, it's just not building the right pressure. With your burnt wires on the IPR, I'd really want to pay attention to IPR duty cycle % and see if it increases any while cranking and note where it maxes out. Tin nut is snug on the back of the IPR, right? Did you trace the IPR wires up further, or ohm them out to make sure there are no more wire issues?

Injector o-rings can also cause low HPO. The way to test your HPOP, or figure out where your problem lies, is to 1, verify the IPR is working and being commanded to close off, then plumb an hydraulic gauge (3000 psi or so) into the system. You've got 2 lines coming off the HPOP. One goes to each head. You want to block off one of those lines and check the pressure in the other head while cranking (if the ICP is good, you can check the driver rail with a scanner to read pressure). Then block off the other hose, hook the other one back up, then swap the gauge tot he other head and crank. If you're still not getting anywhere, disconnect the HPOP from both heads and stick a gauge in one of the discharge lines and see what pressure you get while cranking.

But with your IPR wiring issues, I'd be 200% sure the wiring, fuses and relays are good before messing with any of that.

I tried your link Rick, but my internet connection is way too slow tonight to mess with a thread with lots of pictures. What's up with the grease gun on the gauge?

 

Its a grease gun , ....with a gauge on it ..A good idea...

 

Am I missing something?...

 

Thanks all for the help...

Wrenched on it a little more tonight. Tested wiring and output at IPR. Getting something like 24 V at the IPR. To ensure the last IPR wasn't bad, put in another new IPR and still didn't start. Ran diagnostics while cranking. Max oil pressure while cranking was 230 PSI. After IPR change out, it took a while while cranking to get pressure, but maxed at 230 PSI. HPOP reservoir doesn't run dry. Ran Buzz test again and all injectors seem to be working. All wiring and fuses tested OK. Buddy believes the problem is the HPOP, but could still be injector O rings. Didn't have time to pull the valve covers.

Since I use this truck to mainly tow a 9,000 LB boat and I need it to be reliable for long trips with family, I feel like we should just do both. The fact is, this truck is a 1996 with 177K miles and has original HPOP and injector O rings. I don't want to waste money, but I also don't want to replace either the HPOP or the O rings and then have the other go out in short order. I have a Banks exhaust system and Hypertech programmer and only re-program for towing and I need this truck to be reliable.

Do you guys think doing both the HPOP and O rings will solve this problem??? If so, should I go with the stock 1996 HPOP or should I go with a later year like a 2000-2003 Super Duty like one of the posters recommended? Will a later year HPOP work correctly and will it idle correctly or cause other problems? Once again, I'm not looking for extreme performance, I just want reliability and the a little more power when I reprogram and tow a large heavy boat.

I just want my truck fixed right as it has been down for a few weeks now and I have already missed a long ago planned river trip this weekend.

Your help is greatly appreciated!!!

 

pull the programmer and see what happens.

 

Program is stock and has been since no start condition began. It is not a chip, you can reprogram to Stage 1 through Stage 3 to increase towing performance.

 

High pressure oil pumps rarely go bad ....