Hi everyone. I am going to need help and lots of it. Back in March I got a 95 F250 4X4 Ex cab 460cci and a auto. Day I picked it up it hydrolocked. The "mechanic" and I use this term as a joke, used the bottom end from a older donar truck that was carbed. He used my heads, and intake and hooked it all up. It worked for a short time and then problems started. Driving the truck either around town or maybe 4-5 miles coolant would flow out of the overflow. I just thought at first he didnt burp the cooling system. None the less it kept happening. The water was never all that warm but the top radiator hose looked as though it would burst any moment. In the mean time the tranny took a dump. It took 2 months to have the tranny removed, rebuilt, and reinstalled. I took the truck back to the "mechanic" on July 1 due to the motor started the same thing over again with the water running out the overflow tank.
I finally told him to bring me the heads and I would have them checked out. After thinking about all the time I have owned the truck, March 1 was the day I got it. Here it is Sept 16 and I have yet to drive it more than 10 miles I told him last Thursday to just bring me the truck and I will either put it together myself or find a real mechanic. He finally dropped the truck off today. Now is where I need the help folks. I need to know any tricks, tips, and all the good advise I can get. I found out today the "mechanic" reused the same headbolts. Dumb as I am I know better than to do that. I just ordered a complete set of Felpro gaskets, head bolts and a Haynes manual from Advanced Auto. Should be here early next week. The heads show that #1 cylinder was the bad boy, you could see the water trail from the cylinder to the opening for the water jacket. I am going to have to take the heads to a shop to have 3 broken exhaust bolts removed. He also cut the metal tube that is for the smog pump so I am wondering what all I am going to have to do to either fix it or bypass it. Here in IN we dont have inspections so I can go either way. Right after I took it back to him for this second round I almost had to beg him to pour oil, ATF, anything into the cylinders so the rings wouldnt rust. When I took the truck to him it looked like a bug sprayer out the back so I know the motor was full of water. Its almost dark now and taking any pictures would be useless. I will get pics tomorrow after work. I know I maybe over my head here, but I figure I cant do any worse that my former "mechanic" and God knows I couldnt be as slow. Thanks in advance for any info, advise, and any tricks that will make this job go a little easier.

 

So was the head cracked or the head gasket blown? If it was just the gasket and everything else is right (this is key), throw it all back together and drive it.

I don't believe that the head bolts are torque-to-yield (I maybe wrong) so as long as they weren't damaged (and they could have been) and torque to spec they shouldn't have failed. Are you sure the heads and the deck are straight?

What are the specs on your short block? Was this short block high mileage? Could the block be cracked, or the deck warped? On a side note, Speed Density is very sensitive to changes and using a short block with a different compression and cam could make for some interesting mystery bugs in the future.

Have you had your heads check? With the fact that your past engine was hydrolocked it could have damaged the heads. Make sure that they are flat and the valves seal. Your stock head bolts could have been stretched then too.

 

Ok first off, sorry for taking so long to reply. Been super busy working and getting things ready for this truck. Now to answer all your questions. Heads not cracked. Everything checked out flat and true within specs. Upon cleaning it was evident that when the motor was assembled last time not much cleaning had been done. Found places that original gaskets were not completly removed. As to the miles, the heads and intake has 125,000. The block had about 25,000, but it was a Jasper rebuild. I took everything apart on the heads and cleaned and I installed new valve stem seals. Checking everything there seems no evidence of scaring or gauling on anything. I found out the old gaskets were a no name brand. I went with FelPro complete gasket set. Right now the heads, valve covers, and intake are clean enough to eat off of. The block is cleaned and all bolts and bolt holes have been chased and blown out. My only hold up now is a steel tube that comes from the back of the exhaust manifold on the passenger side.



I am open to any suggestions as to how to fix this. The auto borg stores dont seem to have or be able to get it. I dont even want to think how much Ford wants for one. I could bypass all the egr stuff but I really dont know much about it and I have no clue as to what I would have to do. Any suggestions as to what to do next?

 

Rock Ato has it. $55 RockAuto Parts Catalog

EDIT: My bad. they have the valve, but i dont see the pipe

 

LOL @ Brad. Thats okay, I appreciate the help. I'm adding reps to you for just looking up the part. Thanks.

 

I am almost in the same boat as you. When i took my headers off the nut was froze to my erg tube. luckly i was able to pull the header out w the tube still in it. I have to stop by ford today and see if they can get me a new one

 

Best of luck to you. When I contacted my local Ford dealership they told me that there were 4 different possibilities for my truck. Price range ran from $80.00-$140.00. The parts guy said something about it wassnt called a EGR tube, he said something about an air inlet tube with a valve at the other end. The numbers on the end of the valve end I gave him was not the part number. He said it was a "design number". I'm even more confused than I ever was. I am wondering if I will ever get this "basket case" back together and running. I been looking all over the net for pictures of what a stock 95 F250 with a 460 looks like. I know with all the 460's out there surely someone has a picture of what its supposed to look like. I think I can guess most of it out by placement and logic. The diagram for the vac lines will help but I still have a ways to go.

 

Sounds like that 'Parts Jockey' had no clue what he was looking at-that number is valid, not a 'design number'. Seems like there would be two options for your truck-CA or Fed emissions but I could be wrong.

Maybe four, if there are different setups for stick and auto trans.

I can look at my '97 and see what it looks like and maybe take a pic of it if possible. It's a Fed emission vehile.

Ray

 

Motorcraft part number CX1462 - air injection check valve - at least that's what the numbers come out to - Rock Auto and Auto Parts Express list them. Hope that helps.

 

Irishhandyman. The part number you showed is just the valve, not the complete tube. If I am looking at the tube correctly it goes from air management valve the to the drivers side manifold for air injection. I would go back to ford and talk to another parts guy.

i jusst ordered my EGE tube today. 78 bucks but at least it was still available

 

With as many of these trucks that are out there still running, you'd think parts like this would be easier to find.

 

just picked up my EGR tube today. it was ONLY 52 with my discount

 

Nothing like finding one in your backyard.

Anyway, I'm removing my heads tomorrow to check my block. I'm thinking that I can get the bolts without removing the old rocker and stem valves. (Yeah this is a 94 FI version). And if I'm careful I won't have to do a valve adjustment. Any suggestions?

I also would need to pressure check my cylinders, right?