Hey guys, Ive been busting my tail getting this engine put in and hooked up after work all week. I finally got it in, all hooked up tonight. I need some advice to get the thing to run.

So far here is what I have. I can prime up the HPOP res. and it will fire off and run for 5 seconds or so and then dies. I have no reading on my oil pressure guage in the cab which I am assuming is why it wont stay running. Also I am guessing that it really has no oil pressure up to the reservour because it keeps draining it.

What Ive checked. I filled the filter at first when I began trying to start it. After getting it to fire off a few times and noticed I am not getting oil pressure, I drained the filter and cranked it over. It filled the filter about 1/3 back with oil. Now I filled it back up and cranked again for a while, still no running longer than 5 seconds or so.

Where is the oil pressure sensor at.......????? Is it the one on top of the reservour?

Is it normal to take this long for the low pressure oil to prime up?

Thanks for any suggestions and advice guys!!

 

Did you fill the two oil rails? A squirt oil can works good. Yes the eop sensor is the one on top of the reservoir.

 

So I guess I will see no oil pressure until I get oil in the reservour then. How much cranking should it take to get the whoe engine preimed up so that it is putting enough oil up there?

I did not fill any rails, just the reservour. Will that help me get oil pumping up to the reservour? I am assuming you are talking about the oil rails in the head?

 

Yes there is a couple of plugs on each side you can fill them. Not sure if it will help you but worth a try. You'll have air in the system that will need to get purged out.

 

The engine won't fire until it has oil in the rails and to the injectors so I don't think that will help you at this point. Do you have an AE or any kind of scan tool?

 

Ive got an old Snap On scanner. The engine will fire up if you put about 1/2 quart of oil in the plug at the top of the reservoir, so you would think that everything electronic is working right wouldnt you? If not, what should I be looking for on that side of things?

 

Here is some good info Robin posted:

This is a good "No Start" trouble shooting guide.
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Originally posted by Dave (Golfer) on PSN 01-20-2010 Thanks Dave

its nevvvvver the oil pump...seriously.

I see sooooooooooooooo many guys (dealerships included) that see "no ICP" or some ICP codes in a scantool...and toss HPOP's on truck after truck...when it is either an IPR or an injector (poppet valve) issue.

If you hook up the scantool, and monitor ICP (psi) while cranking...you'll see IPR% (duty cycle) climb & climb 15% key on..20, 30, 40, 55%, higher..the increase in IPR% means that the PCM is requesting ICP pressure to increase...

so ALSO watch ICP(psi) and if it comes up to only 180-250psi or so and stays there...then it's the IPR hung open (bypassing oil back to the oil pan through the front cover) such that only minimal psi can be made.

If the ICP is VERY low...like under 60psi...then it could be injector (poppets) pissing oil (under the VC's)..which is typical for injector with more than 180-200k miles.

if ICP climbs above 550-600..then it will probably climb much higher (15-1800+) and it is most likely going to be an electrical issue.

If his scantool will not connect then its a PCM or chip issue (remove the chip if you have one & haven't removed it yet)

if the scantool connects AND you have >600ICP then look at the datastream for a RPM reading.

if the scantool picks up an RPM signal and it seems accurate....then the CPS is good.

If no RPM on the scantool, replace CPS.

If you have RPM (on scantool, not just on dash)...AND have ICP >600, then run an (key on, eng off) injector "buzz test"...

the buzz test is nothing more than a continuity test from the PCM, through the IDM, and to & from each injector solenoid.

LISTEN to each inj buzz....do they all sound the same? nice & crisp?

if the test passes (and you audibly heard them all)...then wiring is good, IDM is good, HPOP is good...CPS is good...then it could be a fuel issue. gasoline, water, etc...

I wouldn't mention it if I haven't seen it myself numerous times...

any chance this no start began with 10-20miles after a fillup?

holler if you need help troubleshooting. take care~ Dave
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Hears some good info also:

7.3L Powerstroke Starting Requirements:
Battery voltage a minimum of 10.5 volts while cranking
RPM at least 100 while cranking. If no tach movement suspect CPS
If you have a scan tool ICP should be 500 PSI ± 25 PSI and fuel
pulse width should be 1 to 6 milliseconds.

The above requirements assume the following:

Correct oil level, oil type and pressure
Correct type of fuel
Correct fuel pressure (53 PSI per Ford spec)
Sufficient air supply (clean air filter & unobstructed intake)
Proper oil level in HPOP reservoir (1 to ¾ inch from top)
Proper glow plug relay and glow plug operation (in cold weather)
Proper injection timing (PCM controlled)

 

Also another question, off topic but might as well ask, What is the little motor/pump on the passenger side wheel well that runs when I turn the key on?

 

I believe that is the vacumn pump. Someone correct me if I am wrong.

 

So back to thinking about this today. My ICP pressure is probably low since the res keeps draining right? Is there any way to prime up the galleys that feed the res?

 

If your engine is starting on the oil that you primed the rails and HPOP with, then stalling out, what's happening is your LPOP is not supplying the HPOP.
Time to ask dumb questions.
Did you install the oil pickup correctly?
Did you pre-lube the LPOP?

 

I did prelube the pump. How can you install the pickup wrong? I did see here was 2 differant gaskets for it in my o/h kit but it was pretty obvious which one was correct one.

The pump has got to be pumping some because it started to fill the filter back up when i emptied it.

 

OK, that's good.
I don't know why the HPOP reservoir is emptying out unless you still have a ton of air in the head rails and it just needs to purge.
Or there is a torn o-ring on one of the injectors and it's bleeding off faster than the HPOP can supply?

 

Good point there.... I never thought about that the HPOP could be pumping it dry before the LPOP can fill it back up because it probably has so little oil in the head rails. I never filled them up, just been filling from the plug by the sensor on top of the HPOP res.

Can I fill the head rails through the ICP sensor hole and the plug on the other side where it would be?

 

You don't need to remove the icp sensor to fill the rails. The oil rail goes straight back from the icp sensor and same location on the other head. This pdf for a hpx install shows the location of the oil rail plugs. http://www.riffraffdiesel.com/mm5/RE...structions.pdf