4wd not engaging
Senior User
Joined: Aug 2009
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I would check for 12v to both solenoids and the transfer case motor when the switch is moved. I would check several times . If it fails then you know the switch is probably the culprit. Just checking
but you know sometimes if you put the truck in reverse or move forward a few feet it will disengage?
but you know sometimes if you put the truck in reverse or move forward a few feet it will disengage?
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Senior User
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Can anyone send me a link to or post the schematic to the pin configuration of the connector to the transfer case motor? There's too many pins and I don't know which is which. Thanks if anyone can help.
Lou
Lou
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Senior User
Joined: Sep 2006
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Does anyone have any info on the pin configuration for the transfer case motor connector? Even if no schematic, does anyone know which pin is which so I can test the the selector **** from the connector. Thanks if anyone can help.
Lou
Lou
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Joined: Aug 2009
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Try these 2 links to downloads of schematics that I think should help.
http://www.mediafire.com/?1dnjbgx3egu
http://www.mediafire.com/?4y9gzgtyxsj
They are for a 97 esof but should help.
http://www.mediafire.com/?1dnjbgx3egu
http://www.mediafire.com/?4y9gzgtyxsj
They are for a 97 esof but should help.
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 239
Likes: 0
Try these 2 links to downloads of schematics that I think should help.
http://www.mediafire.com/?1dnjbgx3egu
http://www.mediafire.com/?4y9gzgtyxsj
They are for a 97 esof but should help.
http://www.mediafire.com/?1dnjbgx3egu
http://www.mediafire.com/?4y9gzgtyxsj
They are for a 97 esof but should help.
1) P1838- transfer case shift motor circuit fault
2) P1891- transfer case contact plate ground open
3) P1867- transfer case contact plate circuit fault
So:
1) Does this mean it's the transfer case shift motor needing replacement?
2) What is the contact plate?
3) I disconnected the motor connector to test the circuit a few days ago. Could the 1891 & 1867 codes have resulted from that (after my mechanic cleared the codes and tried to activate the 4x4 system with the switch, the 1838 code was the only one showing so wondering why those codes appeared earlier)?
Thanks for any thoughts on this now.
Lou
Senior User
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 304
Likes: 2
I would remove the motor and clean all the contacts and then bench test the motor. Apply 12v to it and see if it will work. If it does , give everything a thorough cleaning and replace it. If not, put a new one on.
Those connection do corrode and cause problems sometimes. I don't think
that motor is too hard to remove.
Those connection do corrode and cause problems sometimes. I don't think
that motor is too hard to remove.
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Senior User
Joined: Sep 2006
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Thanks for the comments and ideas guys. Based on the error codes we found, I felt comfortable just changing the transfer case electric motor and now the 4x4 system works perfectly. Ready for winter....or the next issue. Whichever comes first.
Lou
Lou
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Joined: Oct 2010
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Not Rocket Science!
Remove the vaccuum actuator located on the front differential.
Leave them vaccuum hoses hooked to it.
Turn the **** to 4x4 then back to 2x4.
The rod should move in and out.
If not you either have a vaccuum leak and the actuator is bad.
You can take the actuator apart clean and oil it.
Mud and rust are the most common reasons for actuator failure.
If that's not the problem go to autozone and buy 1/8 vaccuum hose and replace ford's horrible excuse for a vaccuum line.
Leave them vaccuum hoses hooked to it.
Turn the **** to 4x4 then back to 2x4.
The rod should move in and out.
If not you either have a vaccuum leak and the actuator is bad.
You can take the actuator apart clean and oil it.
Mud and rust are the most common reasons for actuator failure.
If that's not the problem go to autozone and buy 1/8 vaccuum hose and replace ford's horrible excuse for a vaccuum line.
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Freshman User
Joined: Oct 2003
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4wd Not Engaging
I want to thank all of you for the comments. I just watched a video of removing a electric motor as well. I have a 1999 F150 with 210,000 miles on it. Was out in the snow and started to fishtail. The 4wd light was on but no engagement. So after reading all your comments, I have decided to go in for the attack. My creeper wheels are shot, and I will attempt without jacking it up as it seems like enough clearance. I have a few new swear words in the vocabulary so I am ready. Besides my Haynes manual, is there any words of advice so I dont pull something and break it? 
Freshman User
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 48
Likes: 0
Remove the vaccuum actuator located on the front differential.
Leave them vaccuum hoses hooked to it.
Turn the **** to 4x4 then back to 2x4.
The rod should move in and out.
If not you either have a vaccuum leak and the actuator is bad.
You can take the actuator apart clean and oil it.
Mud and rust are the most common reasons for actuator failure.
If that's not the problem go to autozone and buy 1/8 vaccuum hose and replace ford's horrible excuse for a vaccuum line.
Leave them vaccuum hoses hooked to it.
Turn the **** to 4x4 then back to 2x4.
The rod should move in and out.
If not you either have a vaccuum leak and the actuator is bad.
You can take the actuator apart clean and oil it.
Mud and rust are the most common reasons for actuator failure.
If that's not the problem go to autozone and buy 1/8 vaccuum hose and replace ford's horrible excuse for a vaccuum line.
Anyway:
1. I took off the electric motor and just ordered a new one. figured the truck
has over 200,000 miles and the motor is rusted pretty bad.
2. I am going to have my son come over and turn the 4wd switch to HI and
back to see if the actuator arm moves.
A. If the arm moves, it is not the actuator and my ordering the electric motor
is good.
B. If the actuator does not move, I can put back on the old motor and buy
an actuator
C. If the actuator moves and the electric motor works, then am I screwed
in the differential? If yes, are those hard to change?
E. Can I operate the actuator while it is connected to rod? I saw someone
say pull the actuator off?
Freshman User
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 48
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I did this backwards--
Read the wrong posts first.
Put a new transfer case motor on--didnt have to, not the problem
Put a new Actuator on-------didnt have to, not the problem
Tested the vacuum from pink line and have plenty
Tested the vacuum from other line, nothing
No movement of the fork either way
Does anyone know what the solenoid volts should be when either 2wd or 4wd is engaged. I am thinking it has to be one of the solenoids? Cant find a tear.
Also, above the actuator, what is the vacuum hose going into the differential? Is that just a vent line??
Read the wrong posts first.
Put a new transfer case motor on--didnt have to, not the problem
Put a new Actuator on-------didnt have to, not the problem
Tested the vacuum from pink line and have plenty
Tested the vacuum from other line, nothing
No movement of the fork either way
Does anyone know what the solenoid volts should be when either 2wd or 4wd is engaged. I am thinking it has to be one of the solenoids? Cant find a tear.
Also, above the actuator, what is the vacuum hose going into the differential? Is that just a vent line??
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