I had what seems to be a common problem in these trucks with almost all engines...since i searched for options to get mine out.....i have found the solution....i've read heat, or breaking it out, even PB blaster for days or weeks but i think this might help a few in the future....

What i did:

i took off the front clip...it could be done with the hood off...or if you have a cherry picker you could do it with everything intact... but i had my front clip zip tied on..until i get it running right..

next i used a one inch nylon strap and tied it into an "O" with plenty or slack to get it around the dizzy...

next i twisted each side of the strap to make it pull evenly from both sides...the i ran a chain through the loops in the end of the twists.....now that i think about it i could have just hooked to both of them just as easy...

i have a swingset style engine puller...the poor boy kind with 2 4x4's and a 4x6....i hooked my come alont to the puller like i was pulling an engine and instead hooked it to the chain i used to go through the strap...worked out really well i think...i just ratcheted it up to put tension on the line enough to pull the trucks suspension up....


i started wiggling the engine best i could...to no avail...so i grabbed the BFH ( big F'n hammer)....lying just thought i'd throw the joke in...i actually used a small rubber mallet...the kind i use to tap in pistons...lightly struck the dizzy body and pop (scared the crap out of me when it gave.)

with that it came halfway out...so i looked and it was pulling it backwards a bit....with the next swing of the hammer i tapped the back of the dizzy a couple times and bam...now my dizzy is out...

Hope this helps someone....and i'll try to get some pics later to show my rigged up dizzy puller...

 

What works better ?

A product available at marine supplies

'Corrblock'

It eats corrosion and then prevents it.

 

i've heard of all kinds of chemicals...that worked over time or had a lot more work to it...one was CRC freeze off...it had good reviews...but wasn't available locally and i didn't need or want to spend that 7 bucks.

 

I've used it and it is awesome. It has worked every time for me and I've used it on some really stubborn bolts. When used in combination with a torch I've done some amazing stuff with it.

 

This solution sounds like it has possibilities of being painful if everything doesn't go according to plan. I still haven't come across a distributor I couldn't pull with a pipe wrench, penetrating oil, paraffin wax and even some heat...or any combo of those. And I've dealt with some motors that have been out in fields for 20+ years.


Although...I gotta give you props on creativity.

 

thanks for the props...i put a pipe wrench on it when i had the intake off the night before and i did get it to move left and right about 2 inches but it still wouldn't come out...tried like crazy...and if you do a search...you'll see that some people have had really hard times...and this seems like it worked well...

i was afraid to do heat..in fear it would mess something up...and i needed to use the dizzy again...i could see it going wrong...but like i said i cranked it until it started pulling up on the truck then i tapped it and it popped right out....i wouldn't suggest putting your face over it of course but with some common sense (which some people lack including me at times) it could be painful.

 

I have been trying to get the dizzy in my 400 to move off and on going on almost 3 years. Done broke one ear off that holds vac advance. I sprayed PB blaster around it time to time. Two weeks ago I sprayed PB blaster until it was puddled up around the bottom of the dizzy. Checked today, puddle is still there, its gonna evaporate before it soaks in.

 

Two words- Mouse Milk. Yeah, I know; funny name. It's been in use in the aviation industry for a very long time, and if it can't do it, nothing will. I keep plenty of it around

Google Mouse Milk- lots of places to get it, and it doesn't take much. One of the best products made for turbocharger waste gates too, regardless of application.

 

well 79fordblake...if you try it i hope it works as well for you as it did for me...peice of cake.

chemicals are great...they do make life so much easier all the time...but then again i used what i had...i think i have some wd-40,liquid wrench,brake cleaner and throttle body cleaner...maybe a little bit of engine degreaser that smells like moth *****...kudos to you if you got it or can get it...i'm glad these things help...consider this the redneck poor boys way.

 

air rattle gun also works

 

not even sure what an air rattle gun is...so i don't have it and if it's an air compressor tool my air compressor is down...

it was just another suggestion...like all of these so future people in need will have it.

 

I'm tryin to not break the dizzy since all I need to do is get it moving so I can adjust timing. I will just keep at it I guess.

I just read about the Mouse Milk penetrating oil, seems like the right stuff for the job. Anybody think that the SeaFoam Deep Creep penetrating oil will do it?

 

i had my intake off and used a pipe wrench on the intake side to get mine moving so it was adjustable...but if you have the stuff to pull it like i suggested in the first post...just mark your adjustment/rotor and pull it out so you can clean it and get it working like it should.

 

Good reads remember the first time i ran into this!!351w was the one i lost my virginity with,i used a super dull chisel and treated the dist base like a step child with 3lb hammer and if finally came out,two seals and the corrision above posters mentioned.

 

I have had very good luck with a penatating oil called KROIL. It has always worked very well for me. The longest I have had to let it soak was maybe a little over an hour.