You all have it tough with us newbies. Curious about my VIN #. Not sure what the # all mean. Was there a difference between the flatbeds and stake trucks? Did all the flatbeds come with that option. Thanks you all for your help!

 

Ford didn't specify in the VINs (actually Data plates) the build of the truck. Post your VIN and we'll decode it for you.

 

The 66 or the 48?

There were no VIN's in '48 - only serial numbers. 88RT25350 is:
8 - 1948
8R - 239 V8
T - Trucks larger than F4 one ton.
25350 - serial number string

The only designation for models appeared on the glovebox rating plate. Some assembly plants included this and some didn't.

 

Thanks...feels like I need to do some more google research too.

 

You are probably going to have just as productive a search staying here!

You have enough posts now (you need 25). It's not terrific, but the is a search function on the main forum page. Click on it then go to the advanced search. Be sure to put what you are looking for in "Quotation Marks"

If you post you serial number we can decode it for you.

 

Thanks for the tip Julie! I believe this is the serial #...... 88RT25350. Am I mistaken? I may be getting somewhere on the wheels, just bought a fuel pump, and 6 volt batt. Now for the real fun! I drained the gas yesterday, tank may be pretty good, going to flush it a bit now and the master cylinder was bone dry, now getting some feel in the brakes........"wheel" see what happens tonight!

 

Yes, that's the right one. mtflat already decoded it correctly...I just didn't see where he got it from - wasn't sure that was your real one.

 

he had already posted it on the VIN sticky

 

So I hear Julie is the goddess of electric. Is this true? I'm running 6 volt right now. I hear there may be a way to go to 8 volts to the lights etc with a 12 volt battery by adjusting the regulator? Any word on that?

 

Yes: DON'T!

But that's just my opinion.

Your electrical system is either 100% reliable, or it's your worst nightmare. So do it right.

I tend to be a little more purist and believe that you can manipulate batteries (by drilling and setting a post) or adjust regulators out of spec. - but shouldn't. That's not how they were designed to operate.

We talk to alot of guys here whos "Previous Owners" have done that kind of stuff. They almost always end up stripping it out and starting over.

I know there are some old timers that will say "yeah I did that and it's easy and works fine," but electrical systems really aren't the place to Jerry Rig - in my opinion.

First, it's not that good for your 6 volt components or lights. Second, one of the major problems with the 6 volt system isn't so much that it's 6 volt, but rather that the generator is only 35 amp rated, and has to be turning over 1000 engine rpm to perform. So irregardless of what you do to the regulator, it won't help at low rpm or with high draw (driving on a rainy night with lights & defrost on) because you are still generator limited. The only advantage over stock 6 volt I can think of with a "conversion" like you are talking about is the additional starter power when turning over the engine.

If you want to stick with the 6 volt stuff, then I recommend you convert to a 70 amp rated 6 volt alternator. Alternators will charge as low as 450 engine rpm. And 70 amps is more than sufficient.

If your actual wires are still good, you can convert to 12 volt by changing out a few components (mostly ignition and light bulbs) fairly in expensively. 6 volt systems require larger wires than 12 volt. So to go to 12 volt on the 6 volt wires will work ok.

If you want to rewire completely at 12 volts with a one wire 70 amp alternator (which is MORE than you'll ever use unless you want electric fans and fuel pump) and the new 12 volt components, you could probably do so for less than $350. That way you can add modern components (wipers, radio, etc) and the truck will support them.

 

So it's true what they say. Thanks for the input, I am going to try to stay 6 volt, see how it comes out. I may need to get new ignition as the key is missing right now....PO is looking for it, and the title.

 

Get a locksmith to cut you a new key for the ignition.

 

That's what I was thinking too.

 

This dude quoted my $115.00, I will be looking around.....Julie gave me some good ideas too. Cheers!

 

Those were good ideas? Yeah, hotwire 101!

You can buy a new ignition switch with the lock tumbler and keys at C&G for $28!

I'm sure Carpenter, LMC, MACS, etc sell them too.

$115! JEEZ!