I picked up a 1970 ford F-100 about a month ago in North Dakota, I have began to tear apart to get the frame powder coated.

In the mean time I am planning the motor rebuild/build and need some serious help.
The person I got it from said the motor has been rebuilt but didnt say what was donr to it.
I got two books on rebuilding the ford big blocks.

What I want to do is get it bored 30 over, if it has not been done already.
Install a 390 cam, rods, and pistons. And put in a cam that has just a little rough idle(I like the sound).

I was reading in one of my books that 360 and 390 pistons are different.

1. Is there anything I should look for when looking for a crank?
2. What would be my best choice for a cam?
3. What would be the best pistons, rods, for this?
4. Should I keep my heads stock or install better rockers, ect. ?

Thanks for any help!

 

First check for new pistons and a clean bottom end, including the oil pan. If it looks good just pick a cam and put it all back together. Then run it 'til it needs work. Dont fix what ain't broke!

 

Is this your first Motor build or FE motor build ??

 

This will be my first ever build, I have never touched a motor before except for changing things like intakes, distributors, and carbs.

 

Well even tho its fun...and you have to learn sometime...depending on how much time and money you have to put into it..My suggestion is like Mel's above..if its running good now...just drive it til something breaks ..and then make sure...you have plenty of cash and the a good FE machinst to help you along the way with specs...and there hard to find a good one..as most are builders of brand X motor's and only claim to know the old ford fe's....

 

Yeah I am trying to find a good machinist now.

The motor smokes really bad right now, I figured if I have to take anything apart I might as well turn it into a 390 and bore it 30 over

 

Well I wish I could help you more..But I dont know of any Good FE Machine shops in WI...there's a few in MI..and some real good ones in Ohio... that are up your way but not in youir backyard....thats the problem I had in VA... But i have a friend in Ohio thats been in the trade for a number of years..and hopefully will do my 428 block..

Well I wish ya luck on the build..and hope it turns out right the first time..As there nothing ever cheap to do over again..LOL Good Luck..and if we can help any...Drop a line..there's a few of the old timers around..and we'll try to guide you in the right direction..

 

Thanks!

That was kinda my of my first post was to get some direction. So far not to much info though.

There is a couple machinists here that I still need to talk to. the one guy I guess is one of the best around.

 

Which engine did this truck come with? Besides the 302, both the 360 and 390 were available.

If the seller claims it has a 390, measure the stroke to find out if that's true or not, because on sale day, 360 engines magically become 390's.

360/390 engines have the same bore: 4.05" / The stroke is not the same.

360 = 3.50" / 390 = 3.78" / The difference between a 360 vs the 390 are the 390's crankshaft, pistons and rods.

The seller claimed the engine was rebuilt, but did he show you recepts for the work done?

Prolly not, which means to so-called engine rebuild could be nothing more than replacing the valve seals or the valves were ground.

When sellers claim they had things rebuilt, ask to see receipts. If no receipts, do not believe one word the seller claims.

 

Forgot to say that it is a 360 in it, it is the original motor.

The seller did say that it has been rebuilt but I did not get into details with him about it.

He was actually not trying to sell the truck. I got it from the rancher where we go prairie dog hunting.
I bought it for $150.00, he said if I was willing to travel that far to get it that he just wanted what he said would be scrap price for it, as it has just been sitting since the early 90's. it was a farm truck, the last time registered was early 80's
It was his first truck that he bought new, The title is still dated 1969.

I so far have the whole truck tore apart. I am still in the process of scraping a 2 inch thick layer of dirt and gunk off the block, it is still blue
i got the heads cleaned off but I see no casting numbers anywhere.
I took off one valve cover and the only thing I seen inside was the letters
SPEC cast into the center of the head under the valve cover.
Here are my build threads for the truck
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...ation-wip.html
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...storation.html

 

Looking at your linked threads, it's obvious you're not shy of working. If I were you, I'd look around for a used 390 that isn't seized. Strip both engines down and use the best parts to make one engine...using the 390 crank and rods of course.

I think just about any decent machine shop can be used as long as you tell them "exactly" what you want done...i.e. bearing clearances for example.

If you stick with stock replacement parts, it will help keep the cost down. Pistons for example....just go with stock oversize and make sure the compression isn't too high.....anything from 8 to 9.5 is probably OK. Cast should be fine, forged will be pricey and I doubt you need forged. If you want a little performance, hypereutectic are reputedly a good choice. You may have to cc a head chamber in case the piston choice has different compression ratios and base that on a certain chamber volume. it's easy to do at home....jsut need a large syringe, a piece of plexiglass and some grease.

You'll likely need a new cam. You shouldn't change cams and lifters from one block to the other and definately don't mix lifters with cam lobes if they can be re-used. If you get a new cam and lifters, try to pick one you like and then call the cam manufactuer to find out if it's suitable for the conmpression ratio you expect to have. Best not to get carried away with performance stuff....just get a cam for good low end torque.

One weakness is the oil pump driveshaft. A heavy duty aftermarket unit is cheap insurance to help the engine live a long life.

On old engines, it's best to have the block hot tanked (to get the coolant passages free of crap). This will destroy the cam bearings, so you'll need to have new ones installed. There's a trick to that, so when that's ready to be done, do a "search" here or ask, and get the info on it to pass along to the machine shop.

Once you have all your parts and the machine work done, there's a whole bunch of assembly tips. Again, you can do a "search" or just ask. Installation of rear oil seal and rear bearing cap can be tricky.....same with intake manifold installation so it doesnt leak...oil or water.

Don't be cheap on some of the gaskets, especially head gaskets......use Fel-Pro 1020 (better check that number) and good intake gaskets. Various opinions on those....try a "search".

I'd have hardened exhaust seats put in the heads for unleaded fuel, but there's lots of people who don't bother and seem to get away with it. Maybe ask around.

It's kind of hard to think of all the variables. Just come back and ask as you get to various stages. Two heads are better than one, and there's a whole lot of heads that contribute to this forum.

Looks like a fun project.....your basic truck looks in great shape...no rust, and dents are always preferable over rust holes.

 

Thanks much for the info, I am actually looking for a 390 now do do just that, take the cam and rods.

I was already planning on buying good gaskets, Also replacing the oil pump and oil pump driveshaft.

Head work I think I will leave to a actual engine builder, I am going to have them gone through and replace anything I need to, Just not sure if the rockers and springs need to be replaced.

I was thinking about going with one of Howard Cam's Flat tapet hydrolic lifter cams with a fair idle. I think the one I was looking at cam with valve springs.

Otherwise I was thinking of something like this cam but I need to find it with a somewhat rough idle
Summit Racing SUM-K34052 - Summit Racing Street & Strip® Cam Kits - Overview - SummitRacing.com

As far as pistons go I was thinking something like these
Speed Pro ZH304P30 - Speed-Pro Hypereutectic Pistons - Overview - SummitRacing.com
or these
Keith Black/KB Pistons 3192H-030 - Keith Black Silv-O-Lite Hypereutectic Pistons - Overview - SummitRacing.com

Just not sure what to go with.

For doing things like setting the cam bearings, I was thinking about having the machinist do it but a friend of mine does have the cam bearing tool, I feel that as much as I can do myself the better I will feel when she first fires to life but then again it could be a disaster

 

I leave cam bearings to the machine shop......I've never done it, but even with the right tool, I can see me screwing it up.

I'm no cam expert, but that looks like a good choice.

Pistons.....odd, but both links specify a press-fit wrist pin. FEs have a floating wrist pin. Also, the Keith Black silvo-lite's call for a wrist pin dia that is way larger than an FE.

Probably a bunch of typo's. Best to do their is go to the manufacturer's website to find out more....call the tech rep if you have to....and then order from Summit. I think I'd go with the Keith Black Silvolite ones, if they'll work for you.

CC a head to get at least an approx chamber volume before you call.....and look up that Fel-pro gasket to get the compressed thickness(summit should list the number) .....and have your bore and stroke numbers ready....then make the call.....tech rep number can usually be found on their website. They can calculate the CR for you.....just make sure it isn't any higher than 9.5. 9 is good. 8.5 is OK.....8 is getting rather minimal

Most of doing what you want to do is figuring it all out and knowing what parts to buy. Getting the machine work done is mostly handled through byour wallet, and assembling it yourself is fairly easy, although a few tricks can help prevent early problems.

 

Something I forgot to mention. Once you choose your engine block, there are some oiling mods to do. They are mostly listed here:

http://www.clubfte.com/users/ratsmoker/oilmods.html

I also chamfer the two block oil holes under the oil filter adapter just along the direction of flow a bit.

The best way is to use a carbide cutting bit with a die grinder, but I managed the first time I did it with a cutter meant for soft metal or wood as the cast iron is pretty soft.

I also would recommend removing all the oil gallery press-in plugs and tapping for 1/4" pipe plugs. One exception might be the plug behind the distributor in the left lifter gallery. Not sure if there's enough metal there or not. I use solid lifters and have plugged off the lifter galleries up top, so I never worried about that one plug....no pressure behind it.

 

Just a suggestion...Ihavent been thru all the updates with what you doing..But on that cam from summit..I think if "I" were to be useing stcok heads..I'd go with a split lift and duration cam , Just to try and help exhaust flow a tad bit..

But as John Said (Argess) lets see what you end up with as far as good parts go before we start building a Top Fuel Truck ! LOL... another thing is what kind of fuel (octane wise) is available there in WI. where you live ? are you just wanting to pay for regular or can you afford to step up to the high octane ?

You said you ask for Ford FE guru's..But to do what with ? you never mentioned anything that I read that said what you were looking to do other than making it run with a thumper idle ? Hell you can to that by pulling a plug wire..LOL..Just joking here..

You never mentioned what kind of money you were looking to put into this 360 to change it over to a 390.. Like John said..there's so many way to get to the same point..thats its hard to set down and just say well do this and that and it'll cost X amount and thats what you want..

If I were you... I'd check and see what a decent FE machinist will charge you for doing you block....the right way if you plan on keeping the truck? Like in my screename its say "FE" Freakin Expensive...thats the truth not just a saying... I realize you are a rookie as I once was.. But the hardest part about a build ..unless you have your heart set on a Full blown street rod build.. Is finding out just what you want...and what you want the truck to do..Just a driver > street/strip ? If its just a driver..call a local advanced auto and have them go thru thewre re-man people and have the re-man install a slightly bigger cam.. Easy..drop off your core and install the new motor and be done with it..

As most FE machinist will want to get the block Just right..and Machine time and set-up time cost $$$$$..for another few bucks you can buy a re-man motor with a warranty ! Now thats not my style..but this isnt my first rodeo either..even I would have to think twice about that for a daily driver... It'll be easy to dump $1500 in just machine work...JMO.. Good luck and keep us posted..