rear diff went out.
Postmaster
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 3,441
Likes: 5
From: Muskegon, MI (home)
Probably the easiest swap would be to go with a 9", they have unlimited aftermarket support. With a bigger set of axle shafts and a nodular center section I would think it would survive with a set of 38s. I am running 37" swampers on my 79 Bronco with a 460 it has a bone stock 9" (accept 4.88s and a full spool) and I haven't had any issues with it yet. I'm sure it helps that I only beat on it sparingly. As for the front D44 TTB, it probably won't like 38s too well... although I do know a few guys where I live running 38s on it; I wouldn't recommend it. You could go with a straight axle D44, even with that 38s will be hard on it. The fact of the matter is anything will break if you beat on it hard enough. My plan down the road is to hang a Dana 60/70 combo under the Bronco with 40s.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 1,460
Likes: 6
From: Bay Area, Unfortunately
You will run into many different issues and trains of thought. Another thing to think about is with bigger tires, you need bigger brakes. The D44 and 9 inch can only go so far for brake upgrades. If you are looking for a serious mudder to abuse the heck out of, it might be cheaper to throw that 460 into an F-250 or F-350. Stouter frames, better brakes, better axles, and when it is time to throw in a Dana 60 front, it will be easier than adapting the coil sprung front.
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New User
Joined: Sep 2010
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Thanks for all the info guys. My buddy has a 9" inch that came off of his friend's truck that i think i'm gonna rebuild. But swapping out the front D44 seems way to above my mechanical expertise as i don't know how to weld yet. Also the ins i'm paying for, isn't to shabby either since as far as the ins company knows i have a 300 six under the hood. I've had a few people tell me the d44 will hold up to the 38's just don't dog the hell out of it, is what they say. I rarely go offroading anyways so i would think it would hold up, if not couldn't i buy a rebuild kit and make the d44 strong enough?
Moderator
Joined: Jan 2001
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From: Virginia
This whole thread started with you dumping the clutch didn't it?
This space for rent...
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 2,001
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From: In the garage
a ttb d44 will not hold up well to 38's. you have smaller parts: balljoints, u-joints, axle shafts, brake components, etc. if you don't mind replacing parts every year or two, rock it. otherwise, i wouldn't go bigger then 35's. my 2 cents. 
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New User
Joined: Sep 2010
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Yeah but that was under different conditions then i would be offroading, i was on rough pavement and i think the axle was probably messed up prior to this. Well i'm not sure what tire size i'll end up running but if it'll last a year or two like chump said it'd be the best truck i've ever owned haha. My friend didn't come through with the 9" cause he said pieces of the gears were stuck in the housing. Not to change the subject but how hard is it to change a rear main seal? I have one heck of an oil leak and it's coming from the rear of the pan; It's all over the bell housing, headers/exhaust pipe, and transmission and you can even see it drip off the oil pan. I don't think its the oil pan cause there are no leaks anywhere else on it. I appreciate the responses guys i know i'm asking alot here but just trying to learn everything about my new truck.
Moderator
Joined: Jan 2001
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From: Virginia
Changing the rear main is a pain in the neck. You have to pull the oil pan, and to do that you have to take the engine loose and jack it up. And all this working overhead with oil and dirt falling in your face.
The good thing is, most of the time it's not the rear main. I would clean it up really good, and check the valve cover gaskets, the rear seal on the intake, and any oil pressure sensors on the rear of the engine for leaking. It's hard to see back there, but a oil leak from one of these will run right down the rear of the engine and come out below and look just like a rear main leak.
The good thing is, most of the time it's not the rear main. I would clean it up really good, and check the valve cover gaskets, the rear seal on the intake, and any oil pressure sensors on the rear of the engine for leaking. It's hard to see back there, but a oil leak from one of these will run right down the rear of the engine and come out below and look just like a rear main leak.
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New User
Joined: Sep 2010
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Well, my truck having a 2 inch body lift probably doesn't hurt lol. But you typically gotta lift the engine 4 inches to remove the pan don't you? I also have access to a shop with lifts. So i'm gonna drive it up to my school tomorrow and go through all of the above listed because now that you mention it i'm positive my valve covers are leaking but i didn't think it would look like that as i didn't think it was leaking that bad. My brother thinks i should just rebuild the 8.8 he said they're stout axles and their is no way the axle housing is bent because it's cast iron, he said the shock mount being bent must be giving me that illusion and or the axle shafts could be bent. what do you think?
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Moderator
Joined: Jan 2001
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From: Virginia
8.8 is a good rearend. I guess it comes down to what's easiest for you to accomplish.
I would definitely change out the valve cover gaskets first. Oil leaks are very hard to diagnose sometimes, especially with all the air that blows around under the truck while it's moving down the road.
I would definitely change out the valve cover gaskets first. Oil leaks are very hard to diagnose sometimes, especially with all the air that blows around under the truck while it's moving down the road.
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New User
Joined: Sep 2010
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Yeah, and i don't have a shroud on mine. My friend said i might want to get one because they're known for overheating without it. Knock on wood i haven't over heated once, except when a coolant hose blew.
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New User
Joined: Sep 2010
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So, i was taking apart my 8.8 to get ready to fix it. Well after i got done my friend told me you know you gotta remember which cap went on the right and which went on the left or you'll prematurely wear out the bearings. He said even the c-locks have to go back on the side you took them off of. So i then asked my other friend who helped me take it apart and he seemed to look at them flip em around etc and mixed them up even more. My other friend then said the reason to this is one side wears differently than the other and i then asked well couldn't i look at the arrows on the cap and match them up with another 8.8? He then said no that they're all different. Is there anyway i can put it back together without ruining the bearings?
Methanoholic
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 6,442
Likes: 8
From: Maine (NorCal Native)
I agree, always mark things like that before disassembly ... though as Franklin stated take your best shot, it'll likely be fine ...
Those components (caps) do not wear, however machining tolerances do vary!
-Enjoy
fh : )_~
Those components (caps) do not wear, however machining tolerances do vary!
-Enjoy
fh : )_~
3rd Gear
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
From: california
Happy with my Dana 60
Hello...new to the boards and have some input. I blew out (2) 8.8 rear ends...breaking the gears in the carrier. The second time I shot a tooth right out the sheet metal cover. I only have the 302 F150 and was running the stock 2-bbl. I upgraded to a Dana 60 and found it to be really tough, but heavy...more weight to turn. Currently running the rediculous 38 X 12.5 tires on 15's w/4.56 gearing. With my gearing ,no overdrive smaller engine displacement I am not happy. C-6 rebuilt soon come, along with exhaust upgrades. Have a new efi system I am tuning still for more fuel delivery. Still have the TTB44 up front. I too would like a solid Dana 60 up front in the future with a larger motor. Made the mistake of rebuilding my stock 302 to a mild refresh, so I feel I want to drive it for a while til this one gets run down...hate to waste my money and throw it away.
Well hope my input counts for something or food for thought anyways. Good luck!
Well hope my input counts for something or food for thought anyways. Good luck!