95 Ranger, 3.0L, Manual. Lately the starter continues to spin for about 5 seconds after ignition. Is this a problem with the starter motor itself or the solenoid? I replaced it about 5-6 years ago. Also, is the solenoid attached to the starter the only solenoid? The manuals I have don't seem too clear on this. Thanks.

 

On some Fords -like my 95 Taurus-the ignition switch is wired from ignition switch to clutch swith then to the starter solenoid which is part of the starter.

On others -like my 87 Ranger-the positive cable from the battery and the ignition switch are wired to a starter relay. On this setup when you turn the key the relay closes & connects voltage to the starter solenoid

The relay is a VERY handy spot to test the start circuit.

Is yours wired to a starter relay??? Trace the positive battery cable & see.

 

The cable splits. One line goes to a relay, the other to the starter solenoid. Could the relay cause the problem described in the post? I guess what I'm asking is do I need to replace the starter or is there some other culprit here?

 

Heres how it works. The stsrter relay closes & sends 12 volts to the solenoid. The solenoid shoves the starter gear into the flywheel & closes the contacts to battery voltage.

One of the wires on the relay should have a rubber boot & it just pulls off.

Try jumping 12 volts to that terminal. It will crank when you do this so make sure it's in neutral.

When it starts remove the jumper & the relay should open & you should feel it.

If it keeps cranking the solenoid is hanging up & you need to replace the starter.

On second thought theres no reason to start the engine when you do this test. Just leave the ignition turned off.

 

Can do, but how do you jump it to the terminal? I've never done that and I'm not familiar with the procedure. Thanks.

 

Heres another way to do the same thing. Have someone turn the key to start & when they release it you should feel the starter relay open. If it does & if the starter keeps cranking the solenoid is hanging up.

BTW, heres how the circuit works from the ignition switch to the relay.

Turn the key to start & voltage flows from the ignition switch thru the clutch switch & to the wire with the rubber boot which closes the relay contacts.

 

Could try that but oftentimes theres no one around to start the truck. Also, I didn't mention that this is not happening on all starts. If it is a cold start it works ok. But when I'm driving to various places and have to start it up after it has been sitting for only a little while the problem will happen after two or three good starts. Also, I got under and looked at the starer and part of the starter solenoid is loose. I replaced it about 5 or 6 years ago and can't remember if it was originally like that.

 

Well go figure I thought the solenoid on all Ford starters was inside the starter.

If you're finding it loose, thats probably the problem. Stop by a parts store & compare yours with a new one.

As far as jumping the starter relay you can probably use a pair of pliers to connect the positive battery cable to the pin where the rubber boot normally is. Make sure it's in neutral & ignition is off.

 

I am confused. the solenoid is usually on top of the starter and the Bendix unit is inside the starter

 

Could be, i've had 6 Fords and never had a reason to look at the starter on any of them. But, i thought G.M. used an external solenoid & on Fords it was internal.

I think i'll drive my 87 up on my ramps and take a quick look.

 

Took a quick look at my 87 2.9 starter & theres a sheet metal tapered bulge (about 1 inch tall)near the top/front of it, but no external solenoid.

Might be different on a 95 though.

 

I think that is the issue the older ones are one piece but the newer ones are separate so in theory you could buy the starter solenoid and install onto the starter.....and then off course i think they all have the bendix unit inside the starter.......

 

Yeah from what tgcrv mentioned his solenoid must be external & the test i mentioned should tell him if the relay or the solenoid is sticking closed.

 

Older FoMoCo's had a starter 'shoe' that was pulled into place when the solenoid was engaged. The shoe shoved the bendix into the teeth of the flywheel, and also connected a bus bar contact internally to the starter to pass full power to the starter motor.
There was a solenoid mounted rearward of the battery, under a shield, that had a short lead to the "+" side of the battery on one side, and a longer large lead that fed down to the starter itself. There was a third lead, that looked like screw threads, that protruded from the solenoid that was connected to power when the ignition key was turned to the START position.
You can test by using a tool [i used a screwdriver] to jumper from the short lead to the 'screw' lead. The solenoid should close, and supply full power to the starter motor. The motor will then pull the shoe into the field, engage the gears, and close the internal switch and crank the engine. And all that happens over and over and over and over each time you turn the key to start. IF the switch on the clutch is closed, OR the neurtral safety switch on the transmission range selector is in Park or Neutral positions.

Odds are that the solenoid itself is staying engaged after you release the ignition key. They are cheap enough to replace, and 99% of Ford solenoids are the same. You can test without damaging the starter by removing the large connector that leads to the starter motor and jumpering the solenoid. It should click and spring back each time you short and release it. If it stays engaged, it may be gummed up, or the two connectors worn badly from age, possibly jamming the flat disk in the engaged position.
tom

 

That's interesting. One thing I've sometimes been confused on is that the + cable goes to what appears to be a relay mounted near the battery which then runs down through the wiring harness to the starter. Some manuals and diagrams I've looked at have referred to the relay as a "solenoid" while there is a solenoid mounted on the starter itself. How do I jump the relay? Do I need special equipment or just run a wire or long screwdriver from the + terminal to the relay? I assume I would need to do this after starting it several times since the problem seems to manifest itself after 2 or 3 starts.