Stand-Pipes & Dummy Plugs
#16
09-07-2010, 09:29 PM
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Thanks for getting back to me.
I understand about your disclamier. I know I could give it a try.
if is just taking parts off to get at it replacing them and getting it back together I think I can handle that. I have a shop and most Common Std and Metric tools.
I can't fathom 2000.00 in labor.
I understand about your disclamier. I know I could give it a try.
if is just taking parts off to get at it replacing them and getting it back together I think I can handle that. I have a shop and most Common Std and Metric tools.
I can't fathom 2000.00 in labor.
#17
09-08-2010, 12:45 PM
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I was just going to drop a message on this same thing tonight. I am on the downhill side of the rebuild(engine going back together but still on the floor). I thought I read everything you guys put out there and bought it all. I have no idea why I missed stand pipes. I got a call today asking where the orings were for the stand pipes and I said I didnt order then but wil get them. Ed the parts guy sent me a diagram and my stand pipe only had two orings. I had to drive to my shop because I told then they were not looking at the right thing as I have a picture. Yes it did only have two, they wanted to get all of the head and boxes and valve covers on tonight as they had some free time so no time to order them. Sorry Ed but thanks for the help. Of to the dealer. He told me they dont sell the orings and you have to buy the stand pipe. So I said oh well and he proceeded to tell me he didnt have them. Off to another dealer. they had them $53.00 each. Took them back and they were way longer. Then looked and saw we had to take out the plug. Guess an upgrade. I sure have lots of new parts on this thing. I will post a list of everything that went into the engine when done. Not sure this was such a good idea now, but I am sure it will all be worth it.
no prob, I just didn't understand which ones you were looking for.
what was the part number you bought? I want to look at it and see what you were asking for.
#18
09-08-2010, 12:52 PM
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Appreciate all of your help Ed. You have made this much easier for me with your diagrams and help trying to understand my jiberish. It was 9A332 on your diagram. That is the updated one and I was wanting the orings for the original one. I was told they didnt sell those and had to buy the whole pipe. Thanks again for your help. Will definately be buying parts from you in the future. When they arent needed that minute to keep my boys on track.
#19
09-08-2010, 03:27 PM
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Appreciate all of your help Ed. You have made this much easier for me with your diagrams and help trying to understand my jiberish. It was 9A332 on your diagram. That is the updated one and I was wanting the orings for the original one. I was told they didnt sell those and had to buy the whole pipe. Thanks again for your help. Will definately be buying parts from you in the future. When they arent needed that minute to keep my boys on track.
I see the orings...... lol
you can get those.
thanks now I know what you were asking for.
#20
09-08-2010, 03:30 PM
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Thanks for looking Ed. I wish I would have had time to order them. Oh well my mistake for not getting them earlier. Thought I had all of my parts. I guess you never have everything. I guess the tubes I had to get are an upgrade so they should be better I hope. Upgraded everything else, why not them. Thanks again.
#22
09-09-2010, 02:56 AM
#24
09-09-2010, 02:05 PM
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#25
10-09-2010, 09:12 PM
Old top valve with new bottom stand pipe
I just came across this thread and am in the process of reassembling the drivers side head gasket, stud, etc. I couldn't find a 12mm hex head around town, so I took the new bottom half and mated it the the old top half ball valve that accepted a 10mm hex head (which I have). Does anyone see anything completely wrong here? I'm just trying to move forward without that 12mm wrench. If this is entirely wrong, I'll have to pull the power steering pump, LH motor mount, and RH valve cover to correct this issue. I've already updated the HPOP STC fitting along with rebuild the oil cooler.
And what do you guys mean by "dummy plugs"? There was valves without a stand pipe, which IMO looked like a drain back for the oil to the crankcase. I don't have an upgraded dummy plug if thats what it is. Did these leak too or?
Thanks again!
Mike
And what do you guys mean by "dummy plugs"? There was valves without a stand pipe, which IMO looked like a drain back for the oil to the crankcase. I don't have an upgraded dummy plug if thats what it is. Did these leak too or?
Thanks again!
Mike
#26
10-09-2010, 09:17 PM
ok what you did is fine wont hert a thing. However.... you can find a bolt with a 12mm head and put a nut on it to make a driver.
you can sub in a torqs bit I wanna say its a t50 but not sure, you would need to match it up. It will work.
the " dummy plug" is the plug in the front of the oil rail. the stand pipe is in the back of the oil rail. yes they do like to leak and they are the sorce of better then 50% of the high side oil leaks
you can sub in a torqs bit I wanna say its a t50 but not sure, you would need to match it up. It will work.
the " dummy plug" is the plug in the front of the oil rail. the stand pipe is in the back of the oil rail. yes they do like to leak and they are the sorce of better then 50% of the high side oil leaks
#27
10-09-2010, 09:33 PM
#28
10-09-2010, 09:35 PM
#30
10-09-2010, 09:40 PM