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I muscled the differential out finally. It was a PITA. It was so filthy with old grime, I had to clean everything up. It's still not back in the truck. I can't say I'm a fan of the oil seals they put in that differential. They cup IN towards the gears, so it just catches mud and dirt.
Is there a trick to get the differential back in? There has to be a trick. Do you slide it in at 45 degrees and literally tip it back into place? I couldn't believe the fight taking it out. I see no easy way unless I literally disassemble the entire front end.
Oh yeah, "keystone clamps"... WTF are those things? Little flimsy pieces of galvanized metal? I'm sure I destroyed them. I have never seen those used before. Can I just use hose clamps in place of them?
The rebuild is going quite well. The gears look great. I have all driver's side sub assemblies cleaned up, put together and ready to go back in. The passenger side main parts are soaking in parts cleaner over night.
Oh good maybe I'll try and rope you into helping me with that as well. The 86 F-250 I am getting shortly has a blown D50 center section I will I have to replace. I have a spare, just gonna pull the broken center out and throw the spare in.
The truck is on the floor of a 30 X 40 concrete slab enclosed by an insulated shop. The front is on jack stands. I'm on a hard surface.
The differential was heavier than I thought it would be. Any insight on this is greatly appreciated. I'm trying to take a picture of a lot of steps, but sometimes I get too caught up in what's going on to grab the camera. I hope to have enough to compose a large write-up on the entire process to help folks.
syco, not a problem. Go to Jim's and ask for the seals and bearing for both sides of the diff. Might as well buy 3 u-joints and axle seal kits unless they're fresh. My driver's side was as dry as a bone. Jim mistakenly gave me the wimpier load rating D50 lower ball joints which literally fell right through the holes. So that was a minor setback until I found something decent while cold calling parts huts throughout Caldwell yesterday. Boise O'Reillys >>>>>>>>> Caldwell O'Reillys. I'm headed out to Notus for another day of wrenching in an hour.
two people is about the best advice you'll get for working on thhat thing when i did mine i had a buddy on one side and me on the other to lift it back up in there
I couldn't get it in. Not even close with help. I keep getting hung up on the bracket that comes down for the passenger side beam w/ the pivot bushing. We tried for a good hour or so w/ two jacks. I have a severe head cold (snot pouring out of my nose all day) and threw in the towel to go home. So no truck this week.
I looked in the Ford Dana 50 TTB manual someone on this forum sent me and it does mention removing that bracket for uninstalling and installing the differential. If I go unbolting that pivot arm from that tab, will it want to twist one way or the other because of the springs mounted to its end?
At the end, I jacked the frame up and moved the jack stand under the frame behind the passenger side spring to allow for removal of the bracket. It didn't move the bracket any, so I don't see how it's going to help. We tried to snake the jointed axle stub side in first and couldn't get it. The protrusion where you press the bearing and oil seal in for the jointed axle stub kept getting hung up on the pivot bracket.
I bought new pivot bushings to begin with. I don't want to wrestle the damn thing in there and risk munging up the seal I'm going to have to redo. The front end was in horrible shape. When I pulled the differential, I got dirt in the gears. I pulled the gears completely out and had to clean everything like new. I repacked the carrier bearings and reinstalled the gears. Every single u-joint was hosed in the front end. The wheel bearings were hosed as all seals. I'm surprised it didn't grenade when going down the road. It's been a long 3 day weekend.
agree with dave think you need to get it higher. nothing easy about it. know what you mean about a cold, no work this past weekend as sinus's bleeding. keep at it it will go.
So let both sides fully droop? At full droop, won't the differential mounting tab on the driver's spring perch side be closer in towards the middle of the truck than when supported by a jack stand? I'll give that a shot. If it saves me from taking that bracket off, that would be great.
Does anyone know these torque specs for the heavier rated D50? :
Passenger side pivot bushing bolt
Passenger side pivot bushing arm bracket bolts
Driver side pivot bushing bolt
Differential bolts 2ea which bolt to mounting bracket
Spindle mounting bolts (5ea per spindle)
Upper ball joint nuts
Lower ball joint nuts
Tie rod end nuts (fastening to knuckles)
Preload for wheel bearing procedure
Outer wheel nut
Got it in. I gained clearance when I changed the pivot arm bushing on the driver's side. I still couldn't get it in at full droop. My differential drain plug is MIA.
I am having some difficulty finding the driver side diff seal. Do you have your part number? Did it look a bit like a toilet plunger without a handle? Or was is flat like a wheel seal?
The one that came loose from the diff looks nothing like what I see on-line, unless mine is torn completely off.
Unfortunately, no I don't. I had Ford run a search for parts and they were unable to get 9 out of 10 they tried. I wrote down my axle tag and GAWR numbers for my axle and gave it to the drive train shop. They got me all the parts I needed. It was definitely a Spicer seal.
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