"Good Enough" Restoration Advice
#1
09-02-2010, 09:45 PM
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Fort Benning, GA
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"Good Enough" Restoration Advice
Howdy!
I have been following the forum for about a year and have been doing everything I can to absorb the knowledge and experience y'all have. It's a great forum, and I was hoping that some of y'all would have some good advice for me about how I can do a "good enough" restoration for now, so that I can have something worth restoring down the road when I have the time and/or money to do it the right way.
I've known this '66 F100 short bed for about 14 years. My brother bought it from a farmer (who bought it new in 1966) outside of Austin, TX, and after driving it for a couple of years he sold it to me. I drove the truck through high school and had the great idea to have it painted metallic green. I primed it myself and had a $400 MAACO paint job on the exterior. I never really did anything to the interior, and honestly I wasn't very good to the truck. The one thing I did do was have the engine rebuilt from a 240 I6 to a 300 I6.
When I went off to college and for my first 6 years in my job my Dad used the truck as a hay-hauler around our farm. Since it was an extra vehicle, he kept it running, but didn't really do anything to take care of it. The bad paint job got worse, it got rustier, and it needed a mechanical overhaul pretty badly.
I finally got a pretty decent amount of money saved up, my Dad moved off of the farm, and I asked him for the truck back. I got it back this fall and have been working on it since. I drove it up with me to Fort Benning, GA (it only broke down on me once in Delhi, LA), and after getting it in good running order I started looking at getting it restored.
I realized that I don't have the time right now to do it right myself, so I figured I would pay to have it restored. My dream is to have it stripped to the frame, have the frame powder coated, have all the panels sandblasted and repainted, rewire the whole thing and basically make it come as close to "right off the assembly line" as possible. Unfortunately, I found out that kind of restoration is a lot more expensive than I have money for (the cheapest guy quoted $15,000 if he didn't find any major problems, and his work didn't really look that great in the first place).
As I have some money and time, I have decided to do a "good enough" restoration. I plan on doing the priming myself and having a respectable paint shop paint the truck, inside and out. I plan on painting the trim myself, and I've already troubleshot the majority of the mechanical demons.
This is how I see my situation:
The truck:
VIN F10AD873513
Short Bed
Standard Cab
300 I6
3 Speed Transmission, floor shift
Manual Steering
Manual Brakes
Single Barrel Carb
Oil Bath Air Filter
No special performance parts
3 point seatbelts from a ’67 F100. A requirement from my wife, and a royal pain to install.
I will try to post pictures into this thread to give y’all a better picture of what we’re talking about.
My goal: Restore the truck to a level that it is drivable, isn’t ridiculous looking, spend less than $5000 (in addition to what I’ve already spent), and will remain in good enough shape that it could be completely restored in 5-10 years.
The good -
1) The truck runs great. The engine has about 10,000 miles on the rebuild, I rebuilt the carb, I replaced the alternator, shocks, fuel pump, tires, battery, and starter since I reclaimed it.
2) I finally had the seat reupholstered. It was in sorry shape. Thanks goes out to Cecil's reupholstery in Austin, TX for doing a great job for a great price.
3) I'm pretty good at realizing when I'm in over my head, and I don't feel that way... yet.
The OK-
1) It was originally a three-on-the-tree. The farmer that had it before my brother converted it to a floor shift, which works great, but he cut a very awkward hole (very unevenly) that I can't find a transmission boot to cover. The generic rectangular ones from Autozone rip because they're not big enough from when I shift into second gear. The round ones from Dennis Carpenter aren't big enough in diameter to cover the hole. Right now I drive around and watch the road go by my feet. Any suggestions?
2) It's been a farm truck, so it has a lot of non-standard features. I like the rear bumper (I've never seen one like it before), but most of the wiring is really bad, and I'm not electrically inclined. I don't want to rewire the truck until I have the truck done right so I’m just continuing to troubleshoot and rerun individual wires as necessary.
3) My mirrors are also some strange 4 point attachment with sheetmetal screws drilled directly into the door of the truck. Is this normal? Is there a better attachment system for this?
4) It was a farm truck through and through. I know most people don't like manual brakes and manual steering, but I kind of do. I'm OK without upgrading those systems. I'm also OK without A/C, but if anyone knows of a good system for a '66 F100 for a reasonable price ($500 - $1000), I'm all ears.
5) A mechanic told me that I have an Audi radiator in the truck, for some reason. I thought that was strange (as he did), but it keeps the engine cool enough (about 200 when going 55 down the highway on a hot day). Would I need to put a bigger radiator in if I were to put a bigger load on the engine (by putting in an A/C)? Would a V8 radiator hook up to the 300 I6 without any major issues?
The bad-
1) The shops I talked to said the frame is still OK, but it has some rust that they say needs to be treated in the next 3-5 years or the frame may be so far gone that I will need to get a new frame. They said there isn't really anything I can do, other than have it taken down to the frame now and restoring it before it's too late. I have access to a garage with a lift, and I’m comfortable sanding and painting the areas that look bad, and treating the rest. Does anyone know of a good product that you could treat a moderately rusted frame to slow the rust? This is by far my biggest concern.
2) The floorboards have rusted through on the driver side. It's not that bad, but I don’t have the capability to replace the floorboards (I don’t weld), the cab of the truck, or really “fix this the right way”. My proposed solution is this: Sand to the bare metal. Cut out the really bad places (it looks like it will require cutting a 4” x 8” area). Prime and paint. Lay down roofing plastic on the painted metal (and span the hole). Span the hole with a piece of 1/4” plywood. Lay sound insulation / carpet over the plastic and wood. Is this a terrible idea for a medium-term fix?
3) The padded dash is cracked beyond salvaging. Can a reupholsterer fix it? Are there better options?
4) The timing mark is almost 180 degrees off of where it's supposed to be. This irritates me. I found a great old mechanic who "timed it by ear", and I have to admit that it's running great, but I would like to be able to time it myself. What would cause this? I thought the distributor may be be on backward, but I’m concerned I may do catastrophic damage to the engine if I flip it around and/or not pine it up properly. Is it more trouble to fix than it’s worth?
5) Some electrical niceties don't work. The dome light needs to be rewired. The dash light regularly shorts. I’m going to have to learn a lot of electrical skills I don’t really have.
6) The current paint job is bad, but I have primed it in the past, and I can do a better job this time around. I’m hoping to have the body repainted by the end of October.
My vision: Paint vehicle a gray-blue metallic and the trim white. Clean and treat the frame. Clean out the engine compartment. Preserve the truck for another 10 years in good condition. I don’t plan on replacing the front left fender, stone deflector, or the grill for this “good enough” restoration, but I will pull the dents as close to straight as I can and fill them where I can. The body panels would be a major pain to realign. I can live with it like it is. I’ve already spent too many hours trying to put the new ones on, only to be frustrated over and over and over again.
Thanks in advance for any advice. I’ll post pictures with the progress to my profile, and eventually to the thread, once I figure that process out.
I have been following the forum for about a year and have been doing everything I can to absorb the knowledge and experience y'all have. It's a great forum, and I was hoping that some of y'all would have some good advice for me about how I can do a "good enough" restoration for now, so that I can have something worth restoring down the road when I have the time and/or money to do it the right way.
I've known this '66 F100 short bed for about 14 years. My brother bought it from a farmer (who bought it new in 1966) outside of Austin, TX, and after driving it for a couple of years he sold it to me. I drove the truck through high school and had the great idea to have it painted metallic green. I primed it myself and had a $400 MAACO paint job on the exterior. I never really did anything to the interior, and honestly I wasn't very good to the truck. The one thing I did do was have the engine rebuilt from a 240 I6 to a 300 I6.
When I went off to college and for my first 6 years in my job my Dad used the truck as a hay-hauler around our farm. Since it was an extra vehicle, he kept it running, but didn't really do anything to take care of it. The bad paint job got worse, it got rustier, and it needed a mechanical overhaul pretty badly.
I finally got a pretty decent amount of money saved up, my Dad moved off of the farm, and I asked him for the truck back. I got it back this fall and have been working on it since. I drove it up with me to Fort Benning, GA (it only broke down on me once in Delhi, LA), and after getting it in good running order I started looking at getting it restored.
I realized that I don't have the time right now to do it right myself, so I figured I would pay to have it restored. My dream is to have it stripped to the frame, have the frame powder coated, have all the panels sandblasted and repainted, rewire the whole thing and basically make it come as close to "right off the assembly line" as possible. Unfortunately, I found out that kind of restoration is a lot more expensive than I have money for (the cheapest guy quoted $15,000 if he didn't find any major problems, and his work didn't really look that great in the first place).
As I have some money and time, I have decided to do a "good enough" restoration. I plan on doing the priming myself and having a respectable paint shop paint the truck, inside and out. I plan on painting the trim myself, and I've already troubleshot the majority of the mechanical demons.
This is how I see my situation:
The truck:
VIN F10AD873513
Short Bed
Standard Cab
300 I6
3 Speed Transmission, floor shift
Manual Steering
Manual Brakes
Single Barrel Carb
Oil Bath Air Filter
No special performance parts
3 point seatbelts from a ’67 F100. A requirement from my wife, and a royal pain to install.
I will try to post pictures into this thread to give y’all a better picture of what we’re talking about.
My goal: Restore the truck to a level that it is drivable, isn’t ridiculous looking, spend less than $5000 (in addition to what I’ve already spent), and will remain in good enough shape that it could be completely restored in 5-10 years.
The good -
1) The truck runs great. The engine has about 10,000 miles on the rebuild, I rebuilt the carb, I replaced the alternator, shocks, fuel pump, tires, battery, and starter since I reclaimed it.
2) I finally had the seat reupholstered. It was in sorry shape. Thanks goes out to Cecil's reupholstery in Austin, TX for doing a great job for a great price.
3) I'm pretty good at realizing when I'm in over my head, and I don't feel that way... yet.
The OK-
1) It was originally a three-on-the-tree. The farmer that had it before my brother converted it to a floor shift, which works great, but he cut a very awkward hole (very unevenly) that I can't find a transmission boot to cover. The generic rectangular ones from Autozone rip because they're not big enough from when I shift into second gear. The round ones from Dennis Carpenter aren't big enough in diameter to cover the hole. Right now I drive around and watch the road go by my feet. Any suggestions?
2) It's been a farm truck, so it has a lot of non-standard features. I like the rear bumper (I've never seen one like it before), but most of the wiring is really bad, and I'm not electrically inclined. I don't want to rewire the truck until I have the truck done right so I’m just continuing to troubleshoot and rerun individual wires as necessary.
3) My mirrors are also some strange 4 point attachment with sheetmetal screws drilled directly into the door of the truck. Is this normal? Is there a better attachment system for this?
4) It was a farm truck through and through. I know most people don't like manual brakes and manual steering, but I kind of do. I'm OK without upgrading those systems. I'm also OK without A/C, but if anyone knows of a good system for a '66 F100 for a reasonable price ($500 - $1000), I'm all ears.
5) A mechanic told me that I have an Audi radiator in the truck, for some reason. I thought that was strange (as he did), but it keeps the engine cool enough (about 200 when going 55 down the highway on a hot day). Would I need to put a bigger radiator in if I were to put a bigger load on the engine (by putting in an A/C)? Would a V8 radiator hook up to the 300 I6 without any major issues?
The bad-
1) The shops I talked to said the frame is still OK, but it has some rust that they say needs to be treated in the next 3-5 years or the frame may be so far gone that I will need to get a new frame. They said there isn't really anything I can do, other than have it taken down to the frame now and restoring it before it's too late. I have access to a garage with a lift, and I’m comfortable sanding and painting the areas that look bad, and treating the rest. Does anyone know of a good product that you could treat a moderately rusted frame to slow the rust? This is by far my biggest concern.
2) The floorboards have rusted through on the driver side. It's not that bad, but I don’t have the capability to replace the floorboards (I don’t weld), the cab of the truck, or really “fix this the right way”. My proposed solution is this: Sand to the bare metal. Cut out the really bad places (it looks like it will require cutting a 4” x 8” area). Prime and paint. Lay down roofing plastic on the painted metal (and span the hole). Span the hole with a piece of 1/4” plywood. Lay sound insulation / carpet over the plastic and wood. Is this a terrible idea for a medium-term fix?
3) The padded dash is cracked beyond salvaging. Can a reupholsterer fix it? Are there better options?
4) The timing mark is almost 180 degrees off of where it's supposed to be. This irritates me. I found a great old mechanic who "timed it by ear", and I have to admit that it's running great, but I would like to be able to time it myself. What would cause this? I thought the distributor may be be on backward, but I’m concerned I may do catastrophic damage to the engine if I flip it around and/or not pine it up properly. Is it more trouble to fix than it’s worth?
5) Some electrical niceties don't work. The dome light needs to be rewired. The dash light regularly shorts. I’m going to have to learn a lot of electrical skills I don’t really have.
6) The current paint job is bad, but I have primed it in the past, and I can do a better job this time around. I’m hoping to have the body repainted by the end of October.
My vision: Paint vehicle a gray-blue metallic and the trim white. Clean and treat the frame. Clean out the engine compartment. Preserve the truck for another 10 years in good condition. I don’t plan on replacing the front left fender, stone deflector, or the grill for this “good enough” restoration, but I will pull the dents as close to straight as I can and fill them where I can. The body panels would be a major pain to realign. I can live with it like it is. I’ve already spent too many hours trying to put the new ones on, only to be frustrated over and over and over again.
Thanks in advance for any advice. I’ll post pictures with the progress to my profile, and eventually to the thread, once I figure that process out.
#2
09-02-2010, 11:00 PM
Howdy!
I have been following the forum for about a year and have been doing everything I can to absorb the knowledge and experience y'all have. It's a great forum, and I was hoping that some of y'all would have some good advice for me about how I can do a "good enough" restoration for now, so that I can have something worth restoring down the road when I have the time and/or money to do it the right way.
I've known this '66 F100 short bed for about 14 years. My brother bought it from a farmer (who bought it new in 1966) outside of Austin, TX, and after driving it for a couple of years he sold it to me. I drove the truck through high school and had the great idea to have it painted metallic green. I primed it myself and had a $400 MAACO paint job on the exterior. I never really did anything to the interior, and honestly I wasn't very good to the truck. The one thing I did do was have the engine rebuilt from a 240 I6 to a 300 I6.
When I went off to college and for my first 6 years in my job my Dad used the truck as a hay-hauler around our farm. Since it was an extra vehicle, he kept it running, but didn't really do anything to take care of it. The bad paint job got worse, it got rustier, and it needed a mechanical overhaul pretty badly.
I finally got a pretty decent amount of money saved up, my Dad moved off of the farm, and I asked him for the truck back. I got it back this fall and have been working on it since. I drove it up with me to Fort Benning, GA (it only broke down on me once in Delhi, LA), and after getting it in good running order I started looking at getting it restored.
I realized that I don't have the time right now to do it right myself, so I figured I would pay to have it restored. My dream is to have it stripped to the frame, have the frame powder coated, have all the panels sandblasted and repainted, rewire the whole thing and basically make it come as close to "right off the assembly line" as possible. Unfortunately, I found out that kind of restoration is a lot more expensive than I have money for (the cheapest guy quoted $15,000 if he didn't find any major problems, and his work didn't really look that great in the first place).
As I have some money and time, I have decided to do a "good enough" restoration. I plan on doing the priming myself and having a respectable paint shop paint the truck, inside and out. I plan on painting the trim myself, and I've already troubleshot the majority of the mechanical demons.
This is how I see my situation:
The truck:
VIN F10AD873513
Short Bed
Standard Cab
300 I6
3 Speed Transmission, floor shift
Manual Steering
Manual Brakes
Single Barrel Carb
Oil Bath Air Filter
No special performance parts
3 point seatbelts from a ’67 F100. A requirement from my wife, and a royal pain to install.
I will try to post pictures into this thread to give y’all a better picture of what we’re talking about.
My goal: Restore the truck to a level that it is drivable, isn’t ridiculous looking, spend less than $5000 (in addition to what I’ve already spent), and will remain in good enough shape that it could be completely restored in 5-10 years.
The good -
1) The truck runs great. The engine has about 10,000 miles on the rebuild, I rebuilt the carb, I replaced the alternator, shocks, fuel pump, tires, battery, and starter since I reclaimed it.
2) I finally had the seat reupholstered. It was in sorry shape. Thanks goes out to Cecil's reupholstery in Austin, TX for doing a great job for a great price.
3) I'm pretty good at realizing when I'm in over my head, and I don't feel that way... yet.
The OK-
1) It was originally a three-on-the-tree. The farmer that had it before my brother converted it to a floor shift, which works great, but he cut a very awkward hole (very unevenly) that I can't find a transmission boot to cover. The generic rectangular ones from Autozone rip because they're not big enough from when I shift into second gear. The round ones from Dennis Carpenter aren't big enough in diameter to cover the hole. Right now I drive around and watch the road go by my feet. Any suggestions?
There are very large boots available that will look a bit funny, but will do the trick. Eventually, you'll need to stitch the floor back together.
2) It's been a farm truck, so it has a lot of non-standard features. I like the rear bumper (I've never seen one like it before), but most of the wiring is really bad, and I'm not electrically inclined. I don't want to rewire the truck until I have the truck done right so I’m just continuing to troubleshoot and rerun individual wires as necessary.
Reproduction wiring is available for the taillights and I found a NOS underhood wiring setup on eBay for $20. I always prefer to replace the factory wiring with a suitable reproduction instead of hacking it up running extra wires.
3) My mirrors are also some strange 4 point attachment with sheetmetal screws drilled directly into the door of the truck. Is this normal? Is there a better attachment system for this?
Normal for a farm truck? There is no "normal" for a farm truck. It's very common to see the 'western' mirrors on 60s era trucks. It was a Ford option, although yours might well be aftermarket. On each door just ahead of the vent window is a rectangular hole in the door. That's where the original tiny mirrors came out. If you open the door, you'll see two bolts in the jam that hold the mirror in place.
4) It was a farm truck through and through. I know most people don't like manual brakes and manual steering, but I kind of do. I'm OK without upgrading those systems. I'm also OK without A/C, but if anyone knows of a good system for a '66 F100 for a reasonable price ($500 - $1000), I'm all ears.
Please don't spend 1000 on a/c and do what you said you are going to do to the floors.
5) A mechanic told me that I have an Audi radiator in the truck, for some reason. I thought that was strange (as he did), but it keeps the engine cool enough (about 200 when going 55 down the highway on a hot day). Would I need to put a bigger radiator in if I were to put a bigger load on the engine (by putting in an A/C)? Would a V8 radiator hook up to the 300 I6 without any major issues?
Yes, you would probably need more radiator if you add A/C. Using universal hoses, you can make about anything fit.
The bad-
1) The shops I talked to said the frame is still OK, but it has some rust that they say needs to be treated in the next 3-5 years or the frame may be so far gone that I will need to get a new frame. They said there isn't really anything I can do, other than have it taken down to the frame now and restoring it before it's too late. I have access to a garage with a lift, and I’m comfortable sanding and painting the areas that look bad, and treating the rest. Does anyone know of a good product that you could treat a moderately rusted frame to slow the rust? This is by far my biggest concern.
POR 15 stands for Paint Over Rust. Read up on their product and see if you feel comfortable with it. It is made to paint over a clean rusty surface. I don't know how 3-5 years is going to make or break the frame, but I haven't seen it. It's critical that you don't have large holes opening up where the cab and radiator support mounts are. Also, check where the front spring pocket meets the frame rails. Water and grime fill the cavity between the rail and spring pocket and cause rust. Other than that, the shop may have been referring to areas like the core support and inner fenders which are heavily prone to rust on these pickups. Save up and replace the core support. Buy the reproduction, lightly modify it for the 65-66 by basically adding angle iron to support the inner fenders and you're golden.
2) The floorboards have rusted through on the driver side. It's not that bad, but I don’t have the capability to replace the floorboards (I don’t weld), the cab of the truck, or really “fix this the right way”. My proposed solution is this: Sand to the bare metal. Cut out the really bad places (it looks like it will require cutting a 4” x 8” area). Prime and paint. Lay down roofing plastic on the painted metal (and span the hole). Span the hole with a piece of 1/4” plywood. Lay sound insulation / carpet over the plastic and wood. Is this a terrible idea for a medium-term fix?
Terrible. For all that work, you might as well teach yourself to weld. Take the 1000 you talked about, buy a decent little MIG welder and some practice metal. Grind out the crappy metal and replace it with a reproduction floor pan. If you have a friend who can weld well, bribe him with beer to come show you a trick or two. Seriously, a good used MIG is 200-300 and a good new one is 500-600. Floors are cheap as well as that case of bribe beer.
3) The padded dash is cracked beyond salvaging. Can a reupholsterer fix it? Are there better options?
No cheap option. The new dash pad is 500-700 depending on which vendor you use. A good upholstery shop can upholster over it, but find a good shop to do it.
4) The timing mark is almost 180 degrees off of where it's supposed to be. This irritates me. I found a great old mechanic who "timed it by ear", and I have to admit that it's running great, but I would like to be able to time it myself. What would cause this? I thought the distributor may be be on backward, but I’m concerned I may do catastrophic damage to the engine if I flip it around and/or not pine it up properly. Is it more trouble to fix than it’s worth?
The distributor is out of phase with what's correct for the engine. It won't really hurt anything, so invest in some good sleeping meds if it's keeping you up at night. Fixing it is as simple as unbolting the holddown and pulling the distributor out making note of how the rotor turns as it comes out. You'll turn it 180 degrees and put it back in. Timing should be done with a vacuum gauge ($15 from a parts store) hooked to manifold vacuum. That's what your mechanic was doing by ear. Time it for the best possible vacuum at idle, then drive. If it has any hint of pinging, retard it a bit.
5) Some electrical niceties don't work. The dome light needs to be rewired. The dash light regularly shorts. I’m going to have to learn a lot of electrical skills I don’t really have.
I doubt these are serious issues. Maybe a ground here or a bad headlight switch...it's an easy fix. Invest in the wiring diagram. it's only 6 pages because these trucks are wicked simple. You can do it...I swear. There is no switch in the door jam to turn on the dome light. It turns on with the headlight switch. Learning these skills on your pickup is a great simple place to start. Also check the fuse panel for bolts before you start playing with the electrical system. (look for a bolt minus the head or a screw where a fuse should be.) Those need to come out, especially before you start tinkering. LMC sells the wiring diagram. It's a Jim Osborn published book and it's VERY easy to follow.
6) The current paint job is bad, but I have primed it in the past, and I can do a better job this time around. I’m hoping to have the body repainted by the end of October.
My vision: Paint vehicle a gray-blue metallic and the trim white. Clean and treat the frame. Clean out the engine compartment. Preserve the truck for another 10 years in good condition. I don’t plan on replacing the front left fender, stone deflector, or the grill for this “good enough” restoration, but I will pull the dents as close to straight as I can and fill them where I can. The body panels would be a major pain to realign. I can live with it like it is. I’ve already spent too many hours trying to put the new ones on, only to be frustrated over and over and over again.
Thanks in advance for any advice. I’ll post pictures with the progress to my profile, and eventually to the thread, once I figure that process out.
I have been following the forum for about a year and have been doing everything I can to absorb the knowledge and experience y'all have. It's a great forum, and I was hoping that some of y'all would have some good advice for me about how I can do a "good enough" restoration for now, so that I can have something worth restoring down the road when I have the time and/or money to do it the right way.
I've known this '66 F100 short bed for about 14 years. My brother bought it from a farmer (who bought it new in 1966) outside of Austin, TX, and after driving it for a couple of years he sold it to me. I drove the truck through high school and had the great idea to have it painted metallic green. I primed it myself and had a $400 MAACO paint job on the exterior. I never really did anything to the interior, and honestly I wasn't very good to the truck. The one thing I did do was have the engine rebuilt from a 240 I6 to a 300 I6.
When I went off to college and for my first 6 years in my job my Dad used the truck as a hay-hauler around our farm. Since it was an extra vehicle, he kept it running, but didn't really do anything to take care of it. The bad paint job got worse, it got rustier, and it needed a mechanical overhaul pretty badly.
I finally got a pretty decent amount of money saved up, my Dad moved off of the farm, and I asked him for the truck back. I got it back this fall and have been working on it since. I drove it up with me to Fort Benning, GA (it only broke down on me once in Delhi, LA), and after getting it in good running order I started looking at getting it restored.
I realized that I don't have the time right now to do it right myself, so I figured I would pay to have it restored. My dream is to have it stripped to the frame, have the frame powder coated, have all the panels sandblasted and repainted, rewire the whole thing and basically make it come as close to "right off the assembly line" as possible. Unfortunately, I found out that kind of restoration is a lot more expensive than I have money for (the cheapest guy quoted $15,000 if he didn't find any major problems, and his work didn't really look that great in the first place).
As I have some money and time, I have decided to do a "good enough" restoration. I plan on doing the priming myself and having a respectable paint shop paint the truck, inside and out. I plan on painting the trim myself, and I've already troubleshot the majority of the mechanical demons.
This is how I see my situation:
The truck:
VIN F10AD873513
Short Bed
Standard Cab
300 I6
3 Speed Transmission, floor shift
Manual Steering
Manual Brakes
Single Barrel Carb
Oil Bath Air Filter
No special performance parts
3 point seatbelts from a ’67 F100. A requirement from my wife, and a royal pain to install.
I will try to post pictures into this thread to give y’all a better picture of what we’re talking about.
My goal: Restore the truck to a level that it is drivable, isn’t ridiculous looking, spend less than $5000 (in addition to what I’ve already spent), and will remain in good enough shape that it could be completely restored in 5-10 years.
The good -
1) The truck runs great. The engine has about 10,000 miles on the rebuild, I rebuilt the carb, I replaced the alternator, shocks, fuel pump, tires, battery, and starter since I reclaimed it.
2) I finally had the seat reupholstered. It was in sorry shape. Thanks goes out to Cecil's reupholstery in Austin, TX for doing a great job for a great price.
3) I'm pretty good at realizing when I'm in over my head, and I don't feel that way... yet.
The OK-
1) It was originally a three-on-the-tree. The farmer that had it before my brother converted it to a floor shift, which works great, but he cut a very awkward hole (very unevenly) that I can't find a transmission boot to cover. The generic rectangular ones from Autozone rip because they're not big enough from when I shift into second gear. The round ones from Dennis Carpenter aren't big enough in diameter to cover the hole. Right now I drive around and watch the road go by my feet. Any suggestions?
There are very large boots available that will look a bit funny, but will do the trick. Eventually, you'll need to stitch the floor back together.
2) It's been a farm truck, so it has a lot of non-standard features. I like the rear bumper (I've never seen one like it before), but most of the wiring is really bad, and I'm not electrically inclined. I don't want to rewire the truck until I have the truck done right so I’m just continuing to troubleshoot and rerun individual wires as necessary.
Reproduction wiring is available for the taillights and I found a NOS underhood wiring setup on eBay for $20. I always prefer to replace the factory wiring with a suitable reproduction instead of hacking it up running extra wires.
3) My mirrors are also some strange 4 point attachment with sheetmetal screws drilled directly into the door of the truck. Is this normal? Is there a better attachment system for this?
Normal for a farm truck? There is no "normal" for a farm truck. It's very common to see the 'western' mirrors on 60s era trucks. It was a Ford option, although yours might well be aftermarket. On each door just ahead of the vent window is a rectangular hole in the door. That's where the original tiny mirrors came out. If you open the door, you'll see two bolts in the jam that hold the mirror in place.
4) It was a farm truck through and through. I know most people don't like manual brakes and manual steering, but I kind of do. I'm OK without upgrading those systems. I'm also OK without A/C, but if anyone knows of a good system for a '66 F100 for a reasonable price ($500 - $1000), I'm all ears.
Please don't spend 1000 on a/c and do what you said you are going to do to the floors.
5) A mechanic told me that I have an Audi radiator in the truck, for some reason. I thought that was strange (as he did), but it keeps the engine cool enough (about 200 when going 55 down the highway on a hot day). Would I need to put a bigger radiator in if I were to put a bigger load on the engine (by putting in an A/C)? Would a V8 radiator hook up to the 300 I6 without any major issues?
Yes, you would probably need more radiator if you add A/C. Using universal hoses, you can make about anything fit.
The bad-
1) The shops I talked to said the frame is still OK, but it has some rust that they say needs to be treated in the next 3-5 years or the frame may be so far gone that I will need to get a new frame. They said there isn't really anything I can do, other than have it taken down to the frame now and restoring it before it's too late. I have access to a garage with a lift, and I’m comfortable sanding and painting the areas that look bad, and treating the rest. Does anyone know of a good product that you could treat a moderately rusted frame to slow the rust? This is by far my biggest concern.
POR 15 stands for Paint Over Rust. Read up on their product and see if you feel comfortable with it. It is made to paint over a clean rusty surface. I don't know how 3-5 years is going to make or break the frame, but I haven't seen it. It's critical that you don't have large holes opening up where the cab and radiator support mounts are. Also, check where the front spring pocket meets the frame rails. Water and grime fill the cavity between the rail and spring pocket and cause rust. Other than that, the shop may have been referring to areas like the core support and inner fenders which are heavily prone to rust on these pickups. Save up and replace the core support. Buy the reproduction, lightly modify it for the 65-66 by basically adding angle iron to support the inner fenders and you're golden.
2) The floorboards have rusted through on the driver side. It's not that bad, but I don’t have the capability to replace the floorboards (I don’t weld), the cab of the truck, or really “fix this the right way”. My proposed solution is this: Sand to the bare metal. Cut out the really bad places (it looks like it will require cutting a 4” x 8” area). Prime and paint. Lay down roofing plastic on the painted metal (and span the hole). Span the hole with a piece of 1/4” plywood. Lay sound insulation / carpet over the plastic and wood. Is this a terrible idea for a medium-term fix?
Terrible. For all that work, you might as well teach yourself to weld. Take the 1000 you talked about, buy a decent little MIG welder and some practice metal. Grind out the crappy metal and replace it with a reproduction floor pan. If you have a friend who can weld well, bribe him with beer to come show you a trick or two. Seriously, a good used MIG is 200-300 and a good new one is 500-600. Floors are cheap as well as that case of bribe beer.
3) The padded dash is cracked beyond salvaging. Can a reupholsterer fix it? Are there better options?
No cheap option. The new dash pad is 500-700 depending on which vendor you use. A good upholstery shop can upholster over it, but find a good shop to do it.
4) The timing mark is almost 180 degrees off of where it's supposed to be. This irritates me. I found a great old mechanic who "timed it by ear", and I have to admit that it's running great, but I would like to be able to time it myself. What would cause this? I thought the distributor may be be on backward, but I’m concerned I may do catastrophic damage to the engine if I flip it around and/or not pine it up properly. Is it more trouble to fix than it’s worth?
The distributor is out of phase with what's correct for the engine. It won't really hurt anything, so invest in some good sleeping meds if it's keeping you up at night. Fixing it is as simple as unbolting the holddown and pulling the distributor out making note of how the rotor turns as it comes out. You'll turn it 180 degrees and put it back in. Timing should be done with a vacuum gauge ($15 from a parts store) hooked to manifold vacuum. That's what your mechanic was doing by ear. Time it for the best possible vacuum at idle, then drive. If it has any hint of pinging, retard it a bit.
5) Some electrical niceties don't work. The dome light needs to be rewired. The dash light regularly shorts. I’m going to have to learn a lot of electrical skills I don’t really have.
I doubt these are serious issues. Maybe a ground here or a bad headlight switch...it's an easy fix. Invest in the wiring diagram. it's only 6 pages because these trucks are wicked simple. You can do it...I swear. There is no switch in the door jam to turn on the dome light. It turns on with the headlight switch. Learning these skills on your pickup is a great simple place to start. Also check the fuse panel for bolts before you start playing with the electrical system. (look for a bolt minus the head or a screw where a fuse should be.) Those need to come out, especially before you start tinkering. LMC sells the wiring diagram. It's a Jim Osborn published book and it's VERY easy to follow.
6) The current paint job is bad, but I have primed it in the past, and I can do a better job this time around. I’m hoping to have the body repainted by the end of October.
My vision: Paint vehicle a gray-blue metallic and the trim white. Clean and treat the frame. Clean out the engine compartment. Preserve the truck for another 10 years in good condition. I don’t plan on replacing the front left fender, stone deflector, or the grill for this “good enough” restoration, but I will pull the dents as close to straight as I can and fill them where I can. The body panels would be a major pain to realign. I can live with it like it is. I’ve already spent too many hours trying to put the new ones on, only to be frustrated over and over and over again.
Thanks in advance for any advice. I’ll post pictures with the progress to my profile, and eventually to the thread, once I figure that process out.
#3
09-03-2010, 06:28 AM
You present your case very well. A frame-off restoration will take years, costs thousands (especially if you can't do it yourself) and if actually done correctly will result in a truck so nice you won't want to drive it, which kind of defeats the purpose of owning it. Fix as you go, make it look nice enough you won't be embarrassed to be seen in it and you'll have far more joy from it.
I concur, your floor repair is a horrible band-aid idea you'll just wind up doing over again later and wonder why you spent so much time making a big mess.
Learning to weld sheet metal isn't terribly hard but there is a learning curve, so you'll want to practice a bunch on some scrap. Don't buy a welder that doesn't use gas. Yes, they cost more but the cheaper ones will make you curse welding pretty quickly.
Your frame is probably the worst at the back. Not that hard to get the bed off onto some sawhorses and clean up and paint it yourself.
You might be a candidate for a new wiring harness. I don't often recommend that route but I'm hearing it's had multiple people dinking with it and has been cut and modified so often that those brittle old wires may be due for replacement. The harness in these trucks isn't much of a challenge. With some careful labeling I'm sure you could replace it without a lot of drama.
Do the work in small steps vs tearing the whole thing apart. It makes it much more manageable and you'll see results quicker which keeps you motivated.
I concur, your floor repair is a horrible band-aid idea you'll just wind up doing over again later and wonder why you spent so much time making a big mess.
Learning to weld sheet metal isn't terribly hard but there is a learning curve, so you'll want to practice a bunch on some scrap. Don't buy a welder that doesn't use gas. Yes, they cost more but the cheaper ones will make you curse welding pretty quickly.
Your frame is probably the worst at the back. Not that hard to get the bed off onto some sawhorses and clean up and paint it yourself.
You might be a candidate for a new wiring harness. I don't often recommend that route but I'm hearing it's had multiple people dinking with it and has been cut and modified so often that those brittle old wires may be due for replacement. The harness in these trucks isn't much of a challenge. With some careful labeling I'm sure you could replace it without a lot of drama.
Do the work in small steps vs tearing the whole thing apart. It makes it much more manageable and you'll see results quicker which keeps you motivated.
#4
09-03-2010, 08:21 AM
Join Date: Jun 2010
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Thanks for the advice. I really appreciate it, and I will consider it all. I've already looked at some of the welding options you mentioned.
I'm also glad to hear that POR 15 is worthwhile. I'd read about it online, but I hadn't met anyone who actually knew anything about it. I'm kinda skeptical about the 3-5 years left in the frame myself, but since two of the restorers I talked to came up with the same number, I thought there might be something to it. Then again, it may have been a tactic to try and get me to commit money I don't have.
Now it's time for me to learn how to weld. Unfortunately, I don't know anyone who's particularly handy down here, but I'm sure I can meet someone to show me the ropes if I start asking. Maybe I can bribe a mechanic at work with a case of beer...
Thanks again. I'll upgrade my account so I can start putting some photos in the forum this weekend.
I'm also glad to hear that POR 15 is worthwhile. I'd read about it online, but I hadn't met anyone who actually knew anything about it. I'm kinda skeptical about the 3-5 years left in the frame myself, but since two of the restorers I talked to came up with the same number, I thought there might be something to it. Then again, it may have been a tactic to try and get me to commit money I don't have.
Now it's time for me to learn how to weld. Unfortunately, I don't know anyone who's particularly handy down here, but I'm sure I can meet someone to show me the ropes if I start asking. Maybe I can bribe a mechanic at work with a case of beer...
Thanks again. I'll upgrade my account so I can start putting some photos in the forum this weekend.
#6
09-03-2010, 08:37 PM
I'd look for the biggest 110V machine you can find or if you have access to 220V (which you do if you can run another circuit from your box), get the smallest 220V machine you can. That's usually about the perfect machine for restorations and general work around the farm. You never know what you'll end up welding up until you have one handy.
Price is 500-900.
Used is 200-400 depending on what's on Craigslist that day.
#7
09-03-2010, 09:48 PM
Texas,
I will respond to your comments below as another guy did. My point of reference is my 66 F100 I6 240, 3 speed on the column I bought last year for $700.00. I am currently about $3400 into it and just about to get it on the road. (For those who have been following me, I know I keep saying that, but I am a bit of a perfectionist, and I just don't want to walk home.)
The good -
1) The truck runs great. The engine has about 10,000 miles on the rebuild, I rebuilt the carb, I replaced the alternator, shocks, fuel pump, tires, battery, and starter since I reclaimed it.
Other than small repairs you can't beat this, it is going to keep going for a long time. I plan on upgrading my engine to a 300 next year.
2) I finally had the seat reupholstered. It was in sorry shape. Thanks goes out to Cecil's reupholstery in Austin, TX for doing a great job for a great price.
3) I'm pretty good at realizing when I'm in over my head, and I don't feel that way... yet.
The OK-
1) It was originally a three-on-the-tree. The farmer that had it before my brother converted it to a floor shift, which works great, but he cut a very awkward hole (very unevenly) that I can't find a transmission boot to cover. The generic rectangular ones from Autozone rip because they're not big enough from when I shift into second gear. The round ones from Dennis Carpenter aren't big enough in diameter to cover the hole. Right now I drive around and watch the road go by my feet. Any suggestions?
The floors for this truck are the same from 1965 to 1979 therefore it is fairly easy to find a salvage truck to get floor boards. Remember that even in a show truck the floors are usually covered by a full mat or carpet. Mine has a hole under the driver gas foot, and the passenger right foot. I don't have the skills or the welder to replace these panels. I plan to buy a welder, and I have some old fenders. I will learn on them and then put the new panels in. Since you need the hump also, (your hole issue) I would get floors out of another truck in your position.
2) It's been a farm truck, so it has a lot of non-standard features. I like the rear bumper (I've never seen one like it before), but most of the wiring is really bad, and I'm not electrically inclined. I don't want to rewire the truck until I have the truck done right so I’m just continuing to troubleshoot and rerun individual wires as necessary.
I bought a full wiring harness aftermarket for $200.00. I know some people don't like these but the wires are marked every 6 inches what they are for, and the only parts I had the slightest issues with were the Headlight switch and the blinker switch. Factory sections cost more but are easier to install.
3) My mirrors are also some strange 4 point attachment with sheetmetal screws drilled directly into the door of the truck. Is this normal? Is there a better attachment system for this?
4) It was a farm truck through and through. I know most people don't like manual brakes and manual steering, but I kind of do. I'm OK without upgrading those systems. I'm also OK without A/C, but if anyone knows of a good system for a '66 F100 for a reasonable price ($500 - $1000), I'm all ears.
5) A mechanic told me that I have an Audi radiator in the truck, for some reason. I thought that was strange (as he did), but it keeps the engine cool enough (about 200 when going 55 down the highway on a hot day). Would I need to put a bigger radiator in if I were to put a bigger load on the engine (by putting in an A/C)? Would a V8 radiator hook up to the 300 I6 without any major issues?
I bought a radiator for mine from Advance Auto for $138.00. Mine was the radiator that has a panel blocking 6-8 inches of the drivers side of the radiator hole. I did have to modify this panel a little but it wasn't hard. I did it with a Dremel tool and a drill.
The bad-
1) The shops I talked to said the frame is still OK, but it has some rust that they say needs to be treated in the next 3-5 years or the frame may be so far gone that I will need to get a new frame. They said there isn't really anything I can do, other than have it taken down to the frame now and restoring it before it's too late. I have access to a garage with a lift, and I’m comfortable sanding and painting the areas that look bad, and treating the rest. Does anyone know of a good product that you could treat a moderately rusted frame to slow the rust? This is by far my biggest concern.
2) The floorboards have rusted through on the driver side. It's not that bad, but I don’t have the capability to replace the floorboards (I don’t weld), the cab of the truck, or really “fix this the right way”. My proposed solution is this: Sand to the bare metal. Cut out the really bad places (it looks like it will require cutting a 4” x 8” area). Prime and paint. Lay down roofing plastic on the painted metal (and span the hole). Span the hole with a piece of 1/4” plywood. Lay sound insulation / carpet over the plastic and wood. Is this a terrible idea for a medium-term fix?
This is a bad idea. I would say buying a floor panel from Dennis Carpenter and installing it with metal screws would be a better plan, but even that would be a bad idea.
3) The padded dash is cracked beyond salvaging. Can a reupholsterer fix it? Are there better options?
I removed mine. I am planning to sand and paint the dash. I like the old metal better. I may change my mind at some point so I am leaving the chrome piece at the bottom.
With my truck, I am working to get a good driver. As soon as I get more money I will get the engine done and then I will work on the body. Mechanically I have replaced everything except the engine transmission and rear end. Just not that much to fail once I get those done.
I will respond to your comments below as another guy did. My point of reference is my 66 F100 I6 240, 3 speed on the column I bought last year for $700.00. I am currently about $3400 into it and just about to get it on the road. (For those who have been following me, I know I keep saying that, but I am a bit of a perfectionist, and I just don't want to walk home.)
The good -
1) The truck runs great. The engine has about 10,000 miles on the rebuild, I rebuilt the carb, I replaced the alternator, shocks, fuel pump, tires, battery, and starter since I reclaimed it.
Other than small repairs you can't beat this, it is going to keep going for a long time. I plan on upgrading my engine to a 300 next year.
2) I finally had the seat reupholstered. It was in sorry shape. Thanks goes out to Cecil's reupholstery in Austin, TX for doing a great job for a great price.
3) I'm pretty good at realizing when I'm in over my head, and I don't feel that way... yet.
The OK-
1) It was originally a three-on-the-tree. The farmer that had it before my brother converted it to a floor shift, which works great, but he cut a very awkward hole (very unevenly) that I can't find a transmission boot to cover. The generic rectangular ones from Autozone rip because they're not big enough from when I shift into second gear. The round ones from Dennis Carpenter aren't big enough in diameter to cover the hole. Right now I drive around and watch the road go by my feet. Any suggestions?
The floors for this truck are the same from 1965 to 1979 therefore it is fairly easy to find a salvage truck to get floor boards. Remember that even in a show truck the floors are usually covered by a full mat or carpet. Mine has a hole under the driver gas foot, and the passenger right foot. I don't have the skills or the welder to replace these panels. I plan to buy a welder, and I have some old fenders. I will learn on them and then put the new panels in. Since you need the hump also, (your hole issue) I would get floors out of another truck in your position.
2) It's been a farm truck, so it has a lot of non-standard features. I like the rear bumper (I've never seen one like it before), but most of the wiring is really bad, and I'm not electrically inclined. I don't want to rewire the truck until I have the truck done right so I’m just continuing to troubleshoot and rerun individual wires as necessary.
I bought a full wiring harness aftermarket for $200.00. I know some people don't like these but the wires are marked every 6 inches what they are for, and the only parts I had the slightest issues with were the Headlight switch and the blinker switch. Factory sections cost more but are easier to install.
3) My mirrors are also some strange 4 point attachment with sheetmetal screws drilled directly into the door of the truck. Is this normal? Is there a better attachment system for this?
4) It was a farm truck through and through. I know most people don't like manual brakes and manual steering, but I kind of do. I'm OK without upgrading those systems. I'm also OK without A/C, but if anyone knows of a good system for a '66 F100 for a reasonable price ($500 - $1000), I'm all ears.
5) A mechanic told me that I have an Audi radiator in the truck, for some reason. I thought that was strange (as he did), but it keeps the engine cool enough (about 200 when going 55 down the highway on a hot day). Would I need to put a bigger radiator in if I were to put a bigger load on the engine (by putting in an A/C)? Would a V8 radiator hook up to the 300 I6 without any major issues?
I bought a radiator for mine from Advance Auto for $138.00. Mine was the radiator that has a panel blocking 6-8 inches of the drivers side of the radiator hole. I did have to modify this panel a little but it wasn't hard. I did it with a Dremel tool and a drill.
The bad-
1) The shops I talked to said the frame is still OK, but it has some rust that they say needs to be treated in the next 3-5 years or the frame may be so far gone that I will need to get a new frame. They said there isn't really anything I can do, other than have it taken down to the frame now and restoring it before it's too late. I have access to a garage with a lift, and I’m comfortable sanding and painting the areas that look bad, and treating the rest. Does anyone know of a good product that you could treat a moderately rusted frame to slow the rust? This is by far my biggest concern.
2) The floorboards have rusted through on the driver side. It's not that bad, but I don’t have the capability to replace the floorboards (I don’t weld), the cab of the truck, or really “fix this the right way”. My proposed solution is this: Sand to the bare metal. Cut out the really bad places (it looks like it will require cutting a 4” x 8” area). Prime and paint. Lay down roofing plastic on the painted metal (and span the hole). Span the hole with a piece of 1/4” plywood. Lay sound insulation / carpet over the plastic and wood. Is this a terrible idea for a medium-term fix?
This is a bad idea. I would say buying a floor panel from Dennis Carpenter and installing it with metal screws would be a better plan, but even that would be a bad idea.
3) The padded dash is cracked beyond salvaging. Can a reupholsterer fix it? Are there better options?
I removed mine. I am planning to sand and paint the dash. I like the old metal better. I may change my mind at some point so I am leaving the chrome piece at the bottom.
With my truck, I am working to get a good driver. As soon as I get more money I will get the engine done and then I will work on the body. Mechanically I have replaced everything except the engine transmission and rear end. Just not that much to fail once I get those done.
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#8
09-03-2010, 09:53 PM
TexasFarm66F100
Kinda sounds like you and I are in the same boat here. I have a 65 F250 that runs great but need work that I quite simply "do not have the talent / know how" to do. I am not a welder, or a body person.I will follow this post as a teacher so to speak.
Truck is
1965 F250, she needs cab corners on the passenger side, a steering wheel with new horn button
she has a 352 Y block, 4 speed transmission.
The previous owner repainted it, but not correctly.
I really need a raditor core support bad, and the part is available, but funds are short right now.
Thanks for this post! I will stop blabin now
Kinda sounds like you and I are in the same boat here. I have a 65 F250 that runs great but need work that I quite simply "do not have the talent / know how" to do. I am not a welder, or a body person.I will follow this post as a teacher so to speak.
Truck is
1965 F250, she needs cab corners on the passenger side, a steering wheel with new horn button
she has a 352 Y block, 4 speed transmission.
The previous owner repainted it, but not correctly.
I really need a raditor core support bad, and the part is available, but funds are short right now.
Thanks for this post! I will stop blabin now
#9
09-03-2010, 10:28 PM
#10
09-04-2010, 08:01 AM
What Bluestang said. Most of the straight 110 unshielded welders I've seen haven't been worth the space they take up. There may be exceptions, or better ones now, but none I'd have bothered with back when I bought mine. If you're spending the money, may as well get something above average.
#11
09-04-2010, 11:50 AM
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Fort Benning, GA
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As promised, I have included some photos of what I was talking about:
Since I haven't figured out how to to post text after the photos, yet, I'll write a quick picture of what we're looking at:
Picture Number 1: The truck when I reclaimed it in January 2010. It barely ran down the street and back.
Picture Number 2: This is what the interior looked like. The towel covered some of the broken springs and torn vinyl.
Picture Number 3: The front of the truck, shortly after replacing and repainting the front bumper. I know, I shouldn't paint the trim yet, but none of the trim matched (wheels were beige, the rear bumper was black, and the front bumper was rust and white).
Since I haven't figured out how to to post text after the photos, yet, I'll write a quick picture of what we're looking at:
Picture Number 1: The truck when I reclaimed it in January 2010. It barely ran down the street and back.
Picture Number 2: This is what the interior looked like. The towel covered some of the broken springs and torn vinyl.
Picture Number 3: The front of the truck, shortly after replacing and repainting the front bumper. I know, I shouldn't paint the trim yet, but none of the trim matched (wheels were beige, the rear bumper was black, and the front bumper was rust and white).
#12
09-04-2010, 02:41 PM
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Fort Benning, GA
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A few more photos
Still not a lot of great photos, since I'm just now starting to make the truck pretty. Here's the next batch:
Photo 4) A picture of those rusted out floorboards.
Photo 5) A picture of that jacked up floor shifter install.
Photo 6) A picture of the underside of the truck. The frame looks pretty good to me. It's generally rusty, but the only parts that are rusted badly are underneath the radiator support. I'm no expert, but I think it's in good shape. I'll try treating the undercarriage with POR 15. Is there anything I shouldn't apply it to?
Photo 4) A picture of those rusted out floorboards.
Photo 5) A picture of that jacked up floor shifter install.
Photo 6) A picture of the underside of the truck. The frame looks pretty good to me. It's generally rusty, but the only parts that are rusted badly are underneath the radiator support. I'm no expert, but I think it's in good shape. I'll try treating the undercarriage with POR 15. Is there anything I shouldn't apply it to?
#13
09-04-2010, 02:51 PM
Join Date: Jun 2010
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Final batch of photos for now
Here's the last bunch of photos I'll post until I finish prepping the interior, or I have a question I need help with. Thanks again for everyone's input. I'm looking forward to trying my hand at welding.
Photo 7) The truck from its best angle. Has anyone seen a rear bumper like that? I really like it, but I've never seen one like it. The only problem with it is that it was welded to the frame (in addition to being bolted on in 6 places), so I'd have to cut it off to do anything really extensive with it or work on the body underneath it.
Photo 8) The 300 I6. Needs a lot of clean up, but it runs great.
Photo 9) Another undercarriage picture. This is the kind of rust that is covering it across the board.
Photo 7) The truck from its best angle. Has anyone seen a rear bumper like that? I really like it, but I've never seen one like it. The only problem with it is that it was welded to the frame (in addition to being bolted on in 6 places), so I'd have to cut it off to do anything really extensive with it or work on the body underneath it.
Photo 8) The 300 I6. Needs a lot of clean up, but it runs great.
Photo 9) Another undercarriage picture. This is the kind of rust that is covering it across the board.
#14
09-04-2010, 06:46 PM
From what I can tell from your last picture, you're losing the battle with the core support. That might have been what the mechanics were talking about. It looks like the hole where the core support mount mounts to the frame is enlarged in the frame as well. I'll be doing the repairs on mine soon if you want to look at my blog. By soon, I mean a month or so...
Don't cover oily surfaces with POR 15. It requires clean rusty metal to adhere best. You lucked out on the inner fenders as well from what I can see in the pictures. They are especially prone to rust and not reproduced.
Also, check out the cab support brace. It runs under the cab beneath the floor pan straight down from the seat. There's rust forming in yours. They rust at the ends near where they meet the rocker panels. There's a cheap patch made by Carolina Classics and it is readily available. If you don't patch this and seal out the rust, it will open up holes in your floors and rockers.
It'll be easy enough to add a little metal to fill in around the shifter. Then a regular boot from the parts store will suffice. If you want it to look vintage, get a Mustang boot from any of the 200 Mustang parts suppliers. They bolt on with four bolts and the bolts are covered by the carpet. Then, they had a cheap chrome bezel that fit over the top of the boot. The 64 1/2 Mustang had a bezel that screwed into the floor with the same four bolts as the shifter boot. IMHO, the Mustang-style boot looks more period correct and better in the old trucks than the Hurst style boots at the parts store. You're going to have to make that hole smaller with metal though.
Don't cover oily surfaces with POR 15. It requires clean rusty metal to adhere best. You lucked out on the inner fenders as well from what I can see in the pictures. They are especially prone to rust and not reproduced.
Also, check out the cab support brace. It runs under the cab beneath the floor pan straight down from the seat. There's rust forming in yours. They rust at the ends near where they meet the rocker panels. There's a cheap patch made by Carolina Classics and it is readily available. If you don't patch this and seal out the rust, it will open up holes in your floors and rockers.
It'll be easy enough to add a little metal to fill in around the shifter. Then a regular boot from the parts store will suffice. If you want it to look vintage, get a Mustang boot from any of the 200 Mustang parts suppliers. They bolt on with four bolts and the bolts are covered by the carpet. Then, they had a cheap chrome bezel that fit over the top of the boot. The 64 1/2 Mustang had a bezel that screwed into the floor with the same four bolts as the shifter boot. IMHO, the Mustang-style boot looks more period correct and better in the old trucks than the Hurst style boots at the parts store. You're going to have to make that hole smaller with metal though.
#15
09-05-2010, 05:31 AM
The rear cab crossmember he's talking about can be seen on my drain hole cleaning page here: f100rust
It doesn't look like you have concerns with the 'frame'. The actual ladder frame will always have that crusty look to it unless you paint it. If you can't poke any holes through it and it's nice and solid (especially at the rear) I wouldn't put that high on the priority list.
You do need floors, and I wonder what the cab mounts at the front look like? That will be your biggest repair expense. The core support you can buy repro for 61-64 and modify it a bit to fit the '66.
That style of rear bumper isn't 'factory' but we've seen quite a few dealer installed ones. They were probably made by a supplier back in the day since most trucks were not given a rear bumper from the factory unless you paid for it. I'm not sure when that practice changed. Nothing wrong with that bumper, so if you don't mind it leave it alone.
It doesn't look like you have concerns with the 'frame'. The actual ladder frame will always have that crusty look to it unless you paint it. If you can't poke any holes through it and it's nice and solid (especially at the rear) I wouldn't put that high on the priority list.
You do need floors, and I wonder what the cab mounts at the front look like? That will be your biggest repair expense. The core support you can buy repro for 61-64 and modify it a bit to fit the '66.
That style of rear bumper isn't 'factory' but we've seen quite a few dealer installed ones. They were probably made by a supplier back in the day since most trucks were not given a rear bumper from the factory unless you paid for it. I'm not sure when that practice changed. Nothing wrong with that bumper, so if you don't mind it leave it alone.