63 F250/disc brake conversion
New User
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 9
Likes: 0
Hi BillW, I LIKE IT!!! Nice work!!
I'm just finding this thread, so just to be sure of what you've done...
You have had caliper mount brackets FABed from 3/8 cold plate to allow for a disc brake caliper and rotor. I think you stated that the rotor is a late 80s GM.
Half ton truck? or 3/4 ton truck?
Are the calipers from the same year/model?
Can you tell me what wheel bearing part numbers it took to make the spindle compatible with the GM rotor?
I very much interested in do this to my 64 F250.
What lessons learned can you pass on to me?
Thanks and nice job again!!
-Hwy51
I'm just finding this thread, so just to be sure of what you've done...
You have had caliper mount brackets FABed from 3/8 cold plate to allow for a disc brake caliper and rotor. I think you stated that the rotor is a late 80s GM.
Half ton truck? or 3/4 ton truck?
Are the calipers from the same year/model?
Can you tell me what wheel bearing part numbers it took to make the spindle compatible with the GM rotor?
I very much interested in do this to my 64 F250.
What lessons learned can you pass on to me?
Thanks and nice job again!!
-Hwy51
Thread Starter
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Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 11,564
Likes: 4
From: Tucson
Hwy51, thanks, i used 1/4 inch cold rolled steel, rotor form a mid 70's chevy 3/4 ton 4x4 with a caliper and brake hose frome the same, i had the original hub for the drum brakes machined to fit inside the chev rotor. sounds easy but really it was not.
New User
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 9
Likes: 0
Thanks Bill,
I think I gottcha!!
I'm gonna take my 64 down and start measuring the spindles and looking for rotors that use the same bearings. Once I find that, making the brake calipers fit, will be the 2nd requirement.
-Hwy51
I think I gottcha!!
I'm gonna take my 64 down and start measuring the spindles and looking for rotors that use the same bearings. Once I find that, making the brake calipers fit, will be the 2nd requirement.
-Hwy51
Thread Starter
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Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 11,564
Likes: 4
From: Tucson
well folks... it's all finished and back on the road. i had to find aftermarket rims and with that i bought new 235/85/16 tires. i had the drag link bent, cut and welded with a tie rod end so it is adjustable. i have 30-40 miles on it last weekend and today, it stops nice and straight! so far, i am happy with the way it turned out.
anyone wanting a pattern of the bracket, send me a PM
anyone wanting a pattern of the bracket, send me a PM
Senior User
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 261
Likes: 1
From: Colorado Springs
With bending,cutting and adding a tie rod end did it eliminate any bump steer? I put 2" adda-leafs in my 64 F-250 4x to offset the weight of the snow plow I run in the winter, and haven't been able to find a solution to the bumpsteer.
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 6,060
Likes: 7
From: Glendale Arizona
What are the condition of the leaf spring bushings?
What is the condition of your stock drag link?
What is the condition of the Gemmer Steering box?
There is a plethora of issues that can exacerbate the bump steer.
Adding lift changes the angle of the draglink and it needs to be corrected to level at ride height, this is inclusive for lifting or dropping the truck.
Garbz
Thread Starter
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Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 11,564
Likes: 4
From: Tucson
could not tell you for sure....the truck has about 75 miles since putting the brakes on and now i'm doing more work to it. paint, interior, exaust..etc, etc.
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Senior User
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 261
Likes: 1
From: Colorado Springs
Garbz2,
tires 255/85/16
leaf springs and bushing replaced less than 1000 miles ago
stock drag link ,tight no slop.
steering box, not the greatest but not like sailing a boat in choppy water either.
The lift is definately the root of the bump steer as my experience has been with lifted trucks. Thats why I was picking billw's brain on his mod's. In the 70's when we were lifting trucks blocks were available but they had draw backs as well and I can't seem to find one. The "right" way as far as I know is to return the drag link as close as possible to parrallel to the ground. Any suggestions?
tires 255/85/16
leaf springs and bushing replaced less than 1000 miles ago
stock drag link ,tight no slop.
steering box, not the greatest but not like sailing a boat in choppy water either.
The lift is definately the root of the bump steer as my experience has been with lifted trucks. Thats why I was picking billw's brain on his mod's. In the 70's when we were lifting trucks blocks were available but they had draw backs as well and I can't seem to find one. The "right" way as far as I know is to return the drag link as close as possible to parrallel to the ground. Any suggestions?
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 6,060
Likes: 7
From: Glendale Arizona
Garbz2,
tires 255/85/16
leaf springs and bushing replaced less than 1000 miles ago
stock drag link ,tight no slop.
steering box, not the greatest but not like sailing a boat in choppy water either.
The lift is definately the root of the bump steer as my experience has been with lifted trucks. Thats why I was picking billw's brain on his mod's. In the 70's when we were lifting trucks blocks were available but they had draw backs as well and I can't seem to find one. The "right" way as far as I know is to return the drag link as close as possible to parrallel to the ground. Any suggestions?
tires 255/85/16
leaf springs and bushing replaced less than 1000 miles ago
stock drag link ,tight no slop.
steering box, not the greatest but not like sailing a boat in choppy water either.
The lift is definately the root of the bump steer as my experience has been with lifted trucks. Thats why I was picking billw's brain on his mod's. In the 70's when we were lifting trucks blocks were available but they had draw backs as well and I can't seem to find one. The "right" way as far as I know is to return the drag link as close as possible to parrallel to the ground. Any suggestions?
You will need to dogleg and extend the drag link to parallel it as you mention. Re center the steering and adjust it to fit.
Did you do any rebuilding on the Dana44 the lower and upper trunnions tend to wear and cause wonder steering also when the spindle goes in and out of camber.
What shocks are you running in the front? Shock selection makes a huge difference in the bump as better shocks provide better dampening of the leafs action that is the main cause of the bump steer.
I have also found that a good single or pair of steering stabilizer shocks from the axle to the tie rod really dampens the tendency to jitter.
Garbz
Senior User
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 261
Likes: 1
From: Colorado Springs
Yes I did reolace the frame bushings, I went to a local shop that we have used for heavy trucks as they do everything from cars to semi's. They were able to get me the exact same greasable bushings and that what I used when I replaced the springs and installed the adda leafs. I agree the the drag link is the issue and putting a dog leg into it would be a solution, I liked billw's addition of the tie rod adjuster for fine tuning as well. Finding someone willing to cut and bend a steering component may be the challenge since most shops are liability shy. Yes I have replaced both upper and lowers when I did the knuckle seals and the alignment is good. The shocks are Monroes and in good shape. Yes a steering stabilizer is going to be an addition soon.
New User
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
I love you have done, I have been looking all over the internet trying to find an F250 brake conversion. Do you still have your templet for the brackets? If so how much do you want for a copy. I am moving to Germany in 6 months and want to get the restoration of my Great Grandpa's 1963 f250 finished before I leave. Any help you can give would be great.
Thread Starter
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Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 11,564
Likes: 4
From: Tucson
Bill W
I love you have done, I have been looking all over the internet trying to find an F250 brake conversion. Do you still have your templet for the brackets? If so how much do you want for a copy. I am moving to Germany in 6 months and want to get the restoration of my Great Grandpa's 1963 f250 finished before I leave. Any help you can give would be great.
I love you have done, I have been looking all over the internet trying to find an F250 brake conversion. Do you still have your templet for the brackets? If so how much do you want for a copy. I am moving to Germany in 6 months and want to get the restoration of my Great Grandpa's 1963 f250 finished before I leave. Any help you can give would be great.
Yeah, i can help! click on my user name, go to "View Public Profile" and leave me a visitor message with you contact info.
And... Welcome to FTE.
New User
Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
From: Arlington VA. Wash DC.
Hi Bill, I am making my own disc brake setup from your pics and thread. Can you send me a pic of your hub alone after you machined it. How is your setup working after a few years? Thanks Patrick