Winter Time parking Tips
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Junior User
Joined: Jun 2010
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Winter Time parking Tips
What kind of things can I do to prep Big Red to sit for the winter? The truck will be outside. Tanks full or not? Pull battery or just disconnect?
As fall is approaching, quickly followed by winter, I have to start thinking about parking Big Red for the winter. I live in an area that has emissions testing and Big Red didn't pass, carb and exhaust issues, saving up to fix both. I was only able to get a summer tag, I can drive Red until the end of October. Then he must sit until April 1.
When we park my dad's 1955 T-Bird (garaged), we disconnect the battery, put stabilizer in the tank, and throw on the car cover. The first tank of gas in the spring is a little rough, but we burn through it.
As fall is approaching, quickly followed by winter, I have to start thinking about parking Big Red for the winter. I live in an area that has emissions testing and Big Red didn't pass, carb and exhaust issues, saving up to fix both. I was only able to get a summer tag, I can drive Red until the end of October. Then he must sit until April 1.
When we park my dad's 1955 T-Bird (garaged), we disconnect the battery, put stabilizer in the tank, and throw on the car cover. The first tank of gas in the spring is a little rough, but we burn through it.
Senior User
Joined: Aug 2010
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personally i would keep as little fuel in it as possible and still use the stabilizer. Pull the battery so the cold don't suck the life out of it. and personally i would put it all on blocks or jack stands so to avoid any chances of flat spots or hurting the belts. i've seen it happen too much on show cars that sit through the winter. since you are going to leave it outside i suggest a goo car cover unless it doesn't matter then you can just cover the cab with a tarp so not to damage the interior.
as for the t-bird thing with the gas. the last bit of gas is probably winter fuel and the new will be summer...it has certain additives..you can look into it winter fuel VS. Summer fuel.
as for the t-bird thing with the gas. the last bit of gas is probably winter fuel and the new will be summer...it has certain additives..you can look into it winter fuel VS. Summer fuel.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 20,678
Likes: 83
From: NorCal
This is assuming long term storage without starting it up:
Full tank and add a fuel stabilizer (Sta-bil or equivalent)
Change the engine oil.
Pull the spark plugs and inject about a teaspoon of oil in each cylinder. Turn over by hand a few cycles to distribute the oil.
Secure a plastic bag over the carburetor so little critters don't get in.
Remove the the battery.
Drain the old coolant and switch to a 60/40 or 70/30 anti-freeze to coolant mix
Grease all grease fittings.
Crack the windows 1/4-inch so the interior can breathe.
Air up the tires.
Clean out the door drain holes and remove any debris from the cowl vents and drains.
Wash and wax
Open the fresh air vents
Cover the cowl vent grills or tarp/cover the entire vehicle.
To stave off rust, you could spray the frame and underbody with WD-40. It'll wash off easily in the spring.
If you can, park it on a concrete surface and install jackstands under the axles to reduce the unload the tires. You could also install them under the frame to further unload the suspension.
Full tank and add a fuel stabilizer (Sta-bil or equivalent)
Change the engine oil.
Pull the spark plugs and inject about a teaspoon of oil in each cylinder. Turn over by hand a few cycles to distribute the oil.
Secure a plastic bag over the carburetor so little critters don't get in.
Remove the the battery.
Drain the old coolant and switch to a 60/40 or 70/30 anti-freeze to coolant mix
Grease all grease fittings.
Crack the windows 1/4-inch so the interior can breathe.
Air up the tires.
Clean out the door drain holes and remove any debris from the cowl vents and drains.
Wash and wax
Open the fresh air vents
Cover the cowl vent grills or tarp/cover the entire vehicle.
To stave off rust, you could spray the frame and underbody with WD-40. It'll wash off easily in the spring.
If you can, park it on a concrete surface and install jackstands under the axles to reduce the unload the tires. You could also install them under the frame to further unload the suspension.
Logistics Pro
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 4,436
Likes: 19
From: Regina, Saskatchewan
This is assuming long term storage without starting it up:
Full tank and add a fuel stabilizer (Sta-bil or equivalent)
Change the engine oil.
Pull the spark plugs and inject about a teaspoon of oil in each cylinder. Turn over by hand a few cycles to distribute the oil.
Secure a plastic bag over the carburetor so little critters don't get in.
Remove the the battery.
Drain the old coolant and switch to a 60/40 or 70/30 anti-freeze to coolant mix
Grease all grease fittings.
Crack the windows 1/4-inch so the interior can breathe.
Air up the tires.
Clean out the door drain holes and remove any debris from the cowl vents and drains.
Wash and wax
Open the fresh air vents
Cover the cowl vent grills or tarp/cover the entire vehicle.
To stave off rust, you could spray the frame and underbody with WD-40. It'll wash off easily in the spring.
If you can, park it on a concrete surface and install jackstands under the axles to reduce the unload the tires. You could also install them under the frame to further unload the suspension.
Full tank and add a fuel stabilizer (Sta-bil or equivalent)
Change the engine oil.
Pull the spark plugs and inject about a teaspoon of oil in each cylinder. Turn over by hand a few cycles to distribute the oil.
Secure a plastic bag over the carburetor so little critters don't get in.
Remove the the battery.
Drain the old coolant and switch to a 60/40 or 70/30 anti-freeze to coolant mix
Grease all grease fittings.
Crack the windows 1/4-inch so the interior can breathe.
Air up the tires.
Clean out the door drain holes and remove any debris from the cowl vents and drains.
Wash and wax
Open the fresh air vents
Cover the cowl vent grills or tarp/cover the entire vehicle.
To stave off rust, you could spray the frame and underbody with WD-40. It'll wash off easily in the spring.
If you can, park it on a concrete surface and install jackstands under the axles to reduce the unload the tires. You could also install them under the frame to further unload the suspension.
The biggest problem I've ever had with the vehicle being stored is rust... At all costs, keep the vehicle away from moisture.
If you have to store it outside, MAKE SURE that it's covered and taken care of properly before the snow hits (or rain, if applicable).
Thread Starter
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Junior User
Joined: Jun 2010
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Well the paint, body, and interior are 'well used' and I am not too worried about rust. I will probably tarp the cab. My main concern was the mechancs of the truck. The jack stands are a great idea, consider that done. I need atleast one more season out of the tires before replacing them, the rims are split rims, so I have to get new tires and rims at that point. All the fluids are new this spring, so I will only need to change the oil as it is almost due. I will pull the battery and put it in my garage at work to keep it warm, off the floor I know that!
New User
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 11
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All those ideas are great but me personaly when i store my old ford, quad, or boat for the winter i stabil the fuel and i drain the fuel out of the bowls on the carb.... i used to work at a small engine shop in high school and people would bring in there lawn mower and such things with small engines and it wouldn't run.... 90% of the time it was due too old fuel sittin in the carb from the season before.... fuel will kinda cause a buildup in there and cause all kinds of problems for you then your stuck rebuilding a carb
New User
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 11
Likes: 0
Also i have seen it happen with fuel pumps. it has happened few times to our derby cars so drain that too..... seen them eat the diaphrams in the fuel pumps as well
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Fleet Owner
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 20,678
Likes: 83
From: NorCal
All those ideas are great but me personaly when i store my old ford, quad, or boat for the winter i stabil the fuel and i drain the fuel out of the bowls on the carb.... i used to work at a small engine shop in high school and people would bring in there lawn mower and such things with small engines and it wouldn't run.... 90% of the time it was due too old fuel sittin in the carb from the season before.... fuel will kinda cause a buildup in there and cause all kinds of problems for you then your stuck rebuilding a carb
I mean, when we say "summer", it means that it doesn't rain for four or five months. When we say "winter", the low temps are in the 30s. And snow? That's something we play in, not something we live in. Your climate will vary?
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Posting Guru
Joined: Mar 2009
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From: Huntington WV
Ok another thing what bout the chrome on these trucks any good way to protect them from the winter & what bout putting mothballs in it for winter to keep pests from getting in? There was a thread on here a while back that talked about all of this. Another thing to at Harbor Freight they have a thing its like a car port to put your vehicle in an you can close the front up on it. It has all 3 sides an the roof totally covered top to bottom for $200. I am going to get one for mine for the winter since it is to big to fit in the building with the rear bumper on it. It would also be good to use year round if it is raining or something like that an you had to work on it outside.
