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While my motor's out getting rebuilt, I'm gonna have some extra elbow room inside my engine bay. I happen to own an extra (rusty old) proportioning valve donated as part of an otherwise failed axle acquisition.
Reading the service manual, those things are supposed to be messed with every time you bleed the brakes, but along the way I've learned to be cautious about messing with rusty old parts that haven't been moved in many moons but more-or-less work.
Nevertheless, I have a lot in common with all those dead cats and can't quite resist the urge to take at least one of them apart. Has anyone ever tried such a thing? And had success?
FoMoCo will sell me a new one for around $250, so I guess I'm wondering if it's just not worth the effort. I wouldn't pay that.
FWIW: My setup is drum front and back and I don't figger that I'll ever do much than a little better than screech-to-a-halt on my 36s.
Still, those dead cats are meowing awful loud for my company...
I'm not quite sure what you're asking; are you asking whether or not you should try and overhaul an original, or purchase a new one? It's not clear to me how you'd take one apart. Personally I'd rather just have a new one instead of trying to tear apart an old one without knowing what's involved, but that's just my opinion (which you may or may not be asking for).
If it is just for fun....go for it. I would like to see inside of one myself. If you go that route, post some pics...I have a garage full of dead cats!
I tried taking an non-functioning one apart previously. Wasnt much to it that you could actually get to. It appears that the spring is behind a pressed in fitting behind the front valve assembly. I ended up finding a few donors from the local pick-a-part yard. You can easily bench test them with a blow gun and a ball filler tip. Simply blow out the ports and make sure each port that should pass fluid works.
i took apart my prop valve.
there were about 20 lil pieces. The big thing is to not destroy any of the rubber parts, especially the lip seal.
There IS stuff to take apart, pulling it out isn't so easy tho.
My truck had been parked for a long time when I got it, alot of the brake system was rusty crap, so I took all the parts and soaked them/cleaned them.
If it is just for fun....go for it. I would like to see inside of one myself. If you go that route, post some pics...I have a garage full of dead cats!
Got an extra, so I guess I'll give it a try. Will do my best to get pictures if I get anywhere with it...
My truck is drum front and back with 36s, so I get some abrupt stops when I'm not paying close enough attention to tip-toeing.
Does the Baer unit line up with the position of the input and output lines? Or do you have to modify the lines to get them to connect to the Baer unit?
I end up going a cheaper (in stock) model. It didn't line up (only one in hole) whereas the master has two reservoirs, and therefore lines. Figgered it'd be as much work to figure all that out (what you've sugg'd), so I just sent it back and am going back to plan A.
Will post pictures as things develop. One valve s in storage w/ the truck, the other ended up at the shop w/ my motor, so it'll be a week or so at least.
As far as I know, they're both factory. The PS brake cylinder wasn't flowing like the other three corners during the bleed. Replaced most of the rest of the system with OE quality parts. Didn't get to the front lines or valve, but figure now's the time with the motor out. She pulled something fierce last I drove her (last fall), but also wasn't "proportioned" right. Been told it's tough to do with drums front and back... PO had the wrong outer wheel bearing in there too, so it coulda been that too. We'll see.