Hello
I have a 2005 Mercury Mariner the same as the Escape. It has the 2.3 Liter 4 cylinder. Has anyone out there had Rod knocking problems with this engine?? I ran a compression test and #1 cylinder is 180 lbs , #2 cylinder is 175 lbs, #3 cylinder is 75 lbs, and #4 cylinder has ZERO lbs. The head looks good on top. I have not pulled it yet. But I think I have a rod knocking. If that is the case then I wonder if anyone out there Knows where I can get a replacement. Cheapest possible price that is?? Also what caused this. The check engine light never came on. The engine was not over heating.
Sincerely
Stephen Smith
in Kentucky

 

Zero compression? You either have missing valve(s) or a hole in the piston. Was the entire spark plug there when you removed it to do the test?
Also, did you do it at operating temperature? and did you add a little oil to each low cylinder to see if it brought up the numbers? If it does it's probably rings.

As far as replacement, start at a junkyard. eBay or craigslist may have something.

 

Cheapest way to go is pull the engine and rebuild it yourself. Rebuild kit including rings, gaskets, and various other sundries are a few hundred. Head rebuild at a machine shop about 100 give or take. If you need a valve or piston and sleeve (per Scott) add another hundred. I always estimate high so make a few phone calls to the parts stores and machine shops for real estimates and compare that to the unknown (conditions) from the salvage lots. The hardest part will be the removal and replacement. Used engine guarantees are probably 30 days from purchase do not include labor.

 

So far the cheapest alternative is a shop here in Louisville Kentucky quoted me a price of $1900 to take my engine out do a complete rebuild and reinstall. If I find the block or crank scored the price goes up dramatically. To put a different used engine the best price I have found is $2850 for a used 29,000mile engine. Then there are the remanufactured engines $3449 installed. Or I can get a crate motor installed for $4464.
I did not squirt oil in the engine to see if it raised the pressure. I need to get under teh vehile and see if the oil pan and block are intact. The engine dumped the oil right before it quit.

 

Those would appear to be fair, a little high but still fair. I would first pull the head and inspect the bad cylinders myself (helps to determine some hidden rebuild costs). You will probably see what the problem is and if there is any serious damage to the head or cylinders (Piston damage may indicate there might be damage to the rod). Minor cylinder wall damage can be bored out and sleeved.

All that being said, it starts by pulling the head.

 

Hello
I will pull the head then and see what I find. Will post what I find. may be a couple of days before I can do this.

 

We will be here you get back .

 

I would bet there is a hole in the block if you lost oil, either that or oil was being pushed into the cylinder somehow.
Unless I rebuild the engine I'd be a little worried about them. I've gone that route before and had bad luck. But $4500 for a new crate engine is a lot. That is a rough call.

Hope it turns out well and I, unfortunately, look forward to the updates.

 

Hello
I looked under the vehicle. The oil that leaked looks like it came from the headgasket down the front of the bock past the oil filter location. I dont see any hole or cracks in the block or oil pan is also intact. So I think it definitely has a headgasket failure. If the head gasket failed between the #3 and #4 cylinders that wouls account for the wierd compression readings. Since the cylinders would be exchanging pressures. I have a brother that had a 84 Dodge ES600 convertable. That had the turbo 4 cylinder in it. That engine burned a chunk of head out between the two cylinders and the compression reading were the same way. I will have to pull the head to find out.
I talked to a company here in Louisville Ky. that told me this engine has a problem with cylinder #4 getting hot enough that the piston will swell and the rod on its down stroke will pull the top off the piston. I think that may have happened. He says the engine can do that if sludge builds up around that cylinder. And it can do it at regular operating temperature. As I told him the engine has never over heated since i have had it. Even in the high temperatures this summer with the AC ruuning in stop and go traffic.
The company I am refferring to will put a remanfa tured engine in and warranty it for 100,000 miles. I am not sure if a crate motor from Ford will have as far as warranty.

 

I could see if the top came off the piston you'd get a 0 reading since nothing is moving the air. And a 100,000 mile warranty is nothing to shake a stick at.

Make sure to take pics after the head comes off.

 

Hello
I have found some one with a factory new short block for a 1989 Mustang. Is that the same as teh 2.3 liter engine I have in my Mercury Mariner?? Short block wise anyway. He wants $200 for the new short block still in the factory wrapper.

 

That would seam like a good price for a short block, but I do not know the answer as to it being the same. You could give the dealership parts counter a call. Worst case is that they refuse to answer the question and you are no better off. Best case they tell you it is the same and we are off to the races.

 

Wrong engine... You need a Duratec 2.3 16 valve. Only used in Escape from 2005-2008. May be able to get one to work from a Mazda 3 or 6. Was also used in the Ford Fusion.