I will have to do this soon and am NOT looking forward to it. Except for drinking alot of beer and eating pizza, doesn't seem to be alot of fun.

 

Heck of a first post...........so I'm thinking an appropriate question to ask is:

"What is the best way to avoid ever having to do this to my truck or more realistically paying someone to do this (I have no place to work on it except the driveway)........?"

My pan is in great shape considering it is a New England truck, I do have some POR-15 in the house I use as a preemptive strike............

 

I replaced an oil pan in a 99 250 manual trans. and pulled trans. unbolt engine mounts ,jacked up engine,blocked between mounts to support engine(some intake items removed)then pulled pan.went ok.

 

River, what is POR-15? It may be a stupid questiong but I can't figure out what it is. Just wondering. I have a NE truck also.

 

Try clicking this

Pop

 

Thanks! Looks like some great stuff and will save me some serious work. So I take it, you've used this on your oil pan?

 

Good post! After pulling my engine a 2nd time, I'll recommend a couple shortcuts.

- the hood can stay
- the AC compressor and condensor can also stay. I did not remove the header panel mount thingy or the grill, trans cooler, etc. I did remove the radiator, CAC and the engine fan.
- I removed all but the back 2 body mounts and lifted the front of the cab about 3.5". This allowed me to get past that 6spd input shaft to x-member clearance issue while leaving the up-pipes ON. I was able to jack front of cab a bit higher and re-install engine with turbo ON last time.

I will also be eliminating the chances of oil/fuel from the valley contaminating my clutch EVER AGAIN. I think I can fab up a pipe to collect the oil and direct it OUT of the bellhousing instead of INTO it (and on my clutch ).

Here's my junk coming out of truck:


I coulda choked the chain a little more, but didn't and ran out of headroom by a couple inches... My 10yr old walks in and says 'Why don't ya just let the air out of the tires?'


If you put them on their back, they go right to sleep!


Oh, I bought a longblock when replacing the engine last year and the oil pan ended up leaking.........

 

i've been hearing of this all to much and if you have the replacement done outside it's about $1200 to $1500 dollar repair. personally i'm sand blazsting all of mine and painting them with POR paint, it's not a metal problem it's the fact that ford didn't get the p[aint to stick to the metal

 

this is an old thread but i just cut my crossmember out. I'm going to do it and it going to work.

99% of oil pans are done as well as tranny pan are done while engine is still in vehicle. How is the 7.3 any different??

Maybe it was the ****ty rtv you used. DId you let it drip for overnight??

Also why didn't ya check it before welding everything back up??

 

You won't be the first to find out why...

What 'super' RTV do you plan to use?

Lemme know when it stops 'dripping' for ya, mmmkay?

Maybe I'm just cranky this AM, but the smart-*** tone of your post rubbed me a little wrong. I wish you the best of luck and hope you'll take pics and post your procedure - but sincerely hope you've got the ***** to come back and say it didn't work if it leaks again.

For the record, I had about 12hrs in R&R of my engine last time - including re-sealing the oil pan (and cleaning re-painting pan and VC's). That was 50k miles ago and no leaks yet.

In addition to compromising the integrity and value of your truck, I'm not sure your 'short cut' is saving you much TIME and I'm certain it is not less 'hassle'.......

How did you cut x-member out?

 

i cut it out with 4 1/2 grinder. the cross member is thin. I will take pictures.
I'm going to use Permatex right stuff grey or pematex ultra grey i haven't decided waiting for oil pan to come in. I'll get some pics. it's an old IDI truck. I'm doing this before i do my superduty. took me about 2 hours to cut crossmember out. didn't have to drop axle at all. Had to remove the wheels. I did it in dark too I didn't have drop light but i was anxious. I'll get pics

 

looks like someone replaced pan already. Had black silicone but only on front and back side lip. hardly had any on the straight sections. must be tight fit. cylinders in great shape. still have cross hatch

 

A FRAM!!!! NOOOOOoOooOooOOOooo!!!!!!!

 

That filter is 1/2 the size of a 1995!! It can't be doing much of anything but just circulating the oil.

 

Amazon is amazing. Autozone wanted like $165 plus tax. I ordered it Tuesday about 11pm got it for $108 free shipping today. Paint on in looks good maybe powder coated. Nice looking pan i'll add picks later on.