Camber issue

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Sep 3, 2010 | 01:30 PM

#16

LCAM-01XA

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Well if the instructions say to use an impact gun go for it. However using the hammer takes the hits directly to the U-joint caps, whereas with the impact gun it's the screw of the C-clamp press that takes all the beating, and not the U-joint caps. It's very similar to what happens if you use a breaker bar vs. an impact gun on a stuck bolt - the bar makes for stupid-high torque that often shears the bolt, whereas the hits from the impact gun loosen the bolt easier even tho the torque produced by the gun is actually less that what you can reach with your breaker bar. In the U-joints situation, the C-clamp press is the breaker bar, while the hammer is impact gun - translates to stupid-high continuous force vs. smaller but frequent hits, first one blows your caps while the second takes things apart fairly quick... Makes sense?

Sep 8, 2010 | 12:26 AM

#17

eraser5

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I see your point. And so I did the hammer method. I had the caps seated, just not centered, so only 1 snap ring per axis would go on. I setup the C-press and moved the joint to center with a turn of the ratchet. Done.

I removed the inner hub bearing today also. The correct puller did not budge it. A punch would not catch on the bearing edge. I was starting to grind it out when I looked down and noticed my small pry bar I used earlier. The large bent screwdriver kind. The bend was just right to catch on 2 spots at a time. A little love tap here, there, and there and out came the bearing. Easy as pie. A little more clean up and the hub is ready to get the new bearing. Someone buggered the thread too. It is way back, but I am going to smooth it out anyway.

I am getting real good at cramming an 6 hour jobs into 2 weeks. And I just added spring bushings to the job list. More as I get it done.

Sep 8, 2010 | 08:27 PM

#18

eraser5

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It is all back together. And with no left over parts! The hub bearing has definitely been changed before, and it was done by an ape. That hub was beat to death! I got it cleaned up and the bearing fit was fine. I spent quite a bit of time cleaning the crusted on grunge. The good news is that the camber has improved.

Tomorrow I plan to tackle the spring bushings. Maybe that will take care of the camber altogether. Then I get to do it all over again for the drivers side. Somebody shoot me!

Sep 9, 2010 | 09:15 PM

#19

eraser5

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Passenger spring bushing job is well under way. I need to swap bolts. I bought some 5" bolts and I need 3". I needed to go the bolt store tomorrow anyway.

The good news is that the new bushing WILL help my camber. One bushing was pretty bad.

Sep 9, 2010 | 10:18 PM

#20

LCAM-01XA

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Yeah, ain't full suspension rebuilds just so lovely? Methinks you'll be pretty happy with the results tho, despite the pain it is to accomplish them... Now if I can only convince myself into doing radius arms bushings on my own truck, that would be awesome! lol

Sep 10, 2010 | 10:13 PM

#21

eraser5

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Finished the passenger side. That rear spring bushing is a beech! Just getting the spring out was a bear, getting it back in, well, I almost gave up. I ended up using a ratchet strap to pull the axle forward, while pushing the spring up with a jack, while blocking one edge of the spring from moving. I ran the jack with my foot, held a pry bar with my left hand, turned the bolt with the other, and with my right hand... Yep. It was a 3 hand and 1 foot job.

But I got it done! Well, at least the passenger side. Next week the torture begins for the drive side. I am going to buy stock in Aleave. I have needed a lot for this job.

Oh yea, lift was achieved and the wheel now stands straight up and down. Loose top ball joint and smashed bushing let the truck sag, which affects camber. There is no visual negative camber any more. Sure, there might be some measurable camber issue, but way less than before.

I love it when a plan comes together.

Sep 12, 2010 | 12:32 AM

#22

eraser5

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Tackled the driver side spring bushings. This time I removed the spring pack. I think I spent about the same time as I did on the passenger side, but with a lot less struggle. More work was able to be done standing up at the bench and vice. Visibility was better. Over all, by removing the spring, the job went smoother and was a bit more <!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <w:WordDocument> <w:View>Normal</w:View> <w:Zoom>0</w:Zoom> <w:TrackMoves/> <w:TrackFormatting/> <w:PunctuationKerning/> <w:ValidateAgainstSchemas/> <w:SaveIfXMLInvalid>false</w:SaveIfXMLInvalid> <w:IgnoreMixedContent>false</w:IgnoreMixedContent> <w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText>false</w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText> <w

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Truck is level again. I gained at least 1", may be 1-1/2". I can feel it getting in the truck.

Next up: Driver side ball joint, U-joint, hub bearing and seals, wheel bearings and seal. YeeeHaw. Somebody shoot me!

Sep 14, 2010 | 09:20 PM

#23

eraser5

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I may have screwed the pooch. After removing the driver side axle, I looked down the channel and saw the axle/diff seal hanging. I could move it around with a screw driver, and I think I can "thread the needle" going back in, but will it seal? If not, is there a method of seating the seal? Or do I have to drop the diff?

The drive side is still torn all the way down, if that helps any.

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Sep 15, 2010 | 05:35 PM

#24

eraser5

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Bump. Anyone know about the axle seal on the driver side? How does it install? I plan on doing it tonight.

Sep 15, 2010 | 06:26 PM

#25

farmert

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From: western SD

The seal drives in from the outside if I remember right. I have never tryed to put one in with the pumpkin in the truck.

Sep 15, 2010 | 08:25 PM

#26

eraser5

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I was afraid of that. So, any tips on diff R&R?

9/16/10
Got it. Did not have to drop the diff. After a lot of clean up, I could see what was going on. My seal was torn. The rubber part was ripped off of the metal part. That must have been a tight seal. NOT!

Slide hammer and bearing puller yanked the seal out, and a seal driver with a pipe slid over the handle, a few hits and the new seal is in.

Just about done, just taking a dinner break. I am going to drain the fluid and replace before I drive it. Or not. No drain plug? How stupid is that!

Sep 17, 2010 | 03:45 PM

#27

eraser5

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Finally done. Everything is tight and smooth. Alignment on Monday. That was a boatload of work! But the camber looks much better, which was the point of all this in the first place.

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