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I rebuilt a '75 Lincoln 460 for my '78 F-150 4X4. After approximately 80 miles I lost oil pressure. I had it towed the rest of the way home. After dropping the oil pan and inspecting the bearings, I found that every bearing, mains and rods, were chewed up and the journals on the crank. I felt the oil pump was defective and to blame. PAW informed me that there is no way the oil pump was defective and they would not refund my money or replace the oil pump and bearings. The crank was a standard crank and I installed standard bearings. Can someone give me any idea what else would have caused this? I've never had a new engine completely eat new bearings and the crank. Any ideas would help settle my mind on this problem.
Look at the new Carcraft magazine. They have a bearing trouble shooting guide to help identify problems from shot peen to ill fit bearings. Hope this helps.
Most definitely! The engine was spun over without spark plugs to make sure the oil pressure would come up. Assembly lube was also used. This problem has me completely baffled. The engine is being pulled and a new crank and bearings put in it this weekend. I'm just trying to gather some knowledge so I can prove to PAW that it wasn't the build that caused it, it was their parts. I don't see it happening but I need to try. Know what I mean Vern?!
Were the crank journal bearing surfaces carefully measured with a micrometer before installation? It usually takes at least a good machine polish to being a standard crank within spec with grinding .010 under being almost as cheap as a polish. Just using plastigage to check clearances won't ensure the crank journal surfaces are correct.
The journals were polished but not checked with a micrometer. Do you guys think they might have been out of round? This is starting to sound like I messed up and it wasn't the parts.
Since crank main and journal bearings all failed at the same time, I'd think it was the crank. Sounds more like the oil to the crank was restricted than out-of-round on every bearing surface. When a shop turns a crank its always hot tanked to clear the oil passages.
If you replaced them, make sure you have Ford plugs in the four bosses in the lifter valley. They're tapered, while many aftermarket plugs are stright up and down with no taper and will eliminate ALL flow to the oil galley.
After numerous engine rebuilds some of the lessons I've learned are look and keep looking until you find a good machinist and Double check all measurements. I really don't like plastigage since it won't detect if a journal is gotten out of round. you might take a measurement in the one place that is good. I'd have my machinist check all measurements (which they should do as a matter of course) and then I check them. Buy a set of cleaning brushes and clean everything. I use lintless towels and brake cleaner on the final assembly.
All the bearings would go if the engine was starved for oil. I would talk to some people that specialize in rebuilding the 429/460 like Woods Brothers Racing and run your problems by them. Well worth the phone call.
Thanks for all your help guys. After pulling the engine back out and putting in a crank kit, the engine seems to be running great. Once again, thanks for all your advise.