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Spark Plug Question

  #16  
Old 08-25-2010, 12:36 PM
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I have a 2000 EX V10 and have 125,000 on the plugs and have not had any problems yet. I am almost afraid to change them and have a plug blow out.
 
  #17  
Old 08-25-2010, 01:46 PM
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Originally Posted by K9BELLA
I have a 2000 EX V10 and have 125,000 on the plugs and have not had any problems yet. I am almost afraid to change them and have a plug blow out.
I don't know what's worse. A seized spark plug or a plug blowout?

Is it possible to swap out the 2000 cylinder head with one from 2003 and up?
 
  #18  
Old 08-25-2010, 01:51 PM
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Yes, it is.
 
  #19  
Old 08-25-2010, 01:55 PM
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I am in the same boat. I just hope some yahoo has not changed the plugs already and screwed something up. The best senario is that mine has the stock plugs in it. I may pull one and take alook. It will be one of the outside plugs though. If you pull them all and the threads look good there is no reason you should have problems if you take your time. Keep things clean and blow or suck dirt out from around the plugs. It might not be a bad idea to put some WD40 around each plug and back off the plug just a little so the the WD40 can get in there and soften any corrosion or carbon up before you try to pull the plug all the way out. I would put a small amount of antiseze on the threads but not enough to coat the wedge part. If there is carbon around the wedge sealing area try to get it out of there without damaging anything. If any plug does not screw in easily by hand get a thread chaser to clean the threads out. I would check for loose plugs once a year if you are paranoid. They blow out when they rock back and forth after being loose and the threads get worn away or they were cross threaded by some yahoo.

Perry
 
  #20  
Old 08-29-2010, 09:30 AM
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Just changed my plugs at 103K and really had no problems with the job. The toughest part is making sure that you have all of the crud blown out of the area. The left bank was really easy, but the last 2 on the right bank took a little more time to make sure that I got all the crud out. Used an inspection mirror and flashlight to make sure I got all the debris out. Used Autolight plugs and the old plugs had about .020 to .025 wear.
 
  #21  
Old 08-29-2010, 10:40 AM
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There's a way to clean the plugs before you remove the plug from the head. Its OLD SCHOOL................

Warm the motor up and then take a spray bottle of water, rev the engine up to about 2000 RPM and hold it there start spraying water into the air intake strong enough to make the motor drop down to about 1000 RPM spraying about a pint of water into the V-10. After you do this let the engine idle for about 5 minutes. Cut engine off and let it cool completly off before changing plugs.

What happens when you do the procedure is:
The water is solid under pressure.
It knocks all the carbon off the pistons, plugs and valves.
This will also clean and carbon off exposed threads on the plugs.
The tops of the pistons will almost look new as will the bottoms of the valves.

We used to have to do it to the low horsepower 454's all the time the valves would get so much carbon on them the motors would barely run and the lifters would make all kinds of noise. The Mopar 318's were also bad for this.

I did it to my X before I changed the plugs.
 
  #22  
Old 08-29-2010, 12:06 PM
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Originally Posted by K9BELLA
I have a 2000 EX V10 and have 125,000 on the plugs and have not had any problems yet. I am almost afraid to change them and have a plug blow out.
Change them! You are suffering from less gas mileage, less power, and they are decomposing daily to the point where it will even more likely to break or strip one when you have to take them out.
 
  #23  
Old 08-29-2010, 12:07 PM
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Originally Posted by jh818
I don't know what's worse. A seized spark plug or a plug blowout?

Is it possible to swap out the 2000 cylinder head with one from 2003 and up?
I'll take the seized one
 
  #24  
Old 08-29-2010, 12:16 PM
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Originally Posted by UrbanXX
There's a way to clean the plugs before you remove the plug from the head. Its OLD SCHOOL................

Warm the motor up and then take a spray bottle of water, rev the engine up to about 2000 RPM and hold it there start spraying water into the air intake strong enough to make the motor drop down to about 1000 RPM spraying about a pint of water into the V-10. After you do this let the engine idle for about 5 minutes. Cut engine off and let it cool completly off before changing plugs.

What happens when you do the procedure is:
The water is solid under pressure.
It knocks all the carbon off the pistons, plugs and valves.
This will also clean and carbon off exposed threads on the plugs.
The tops of the pistons will almost look new as will the bottoms of the valves.

We used to have to do it to the low horsepower 454's all the time the valves would get so much carbon on them the motors would barely run and the lifters would make all kinds of noise. The Mopar 318's were also bad for this.

I did it to my X before I changed the plugs.
I'm sure you will disagree but the water didn't raise the combustion pressure to the point of "knocking off the carbon" but what it did was temporarily soften the carbon. To do an even bettter job you can run it through at high rpms for about 3 minutes. That much water sprayed in the intake it not going to be solid under pressure and if it was you would get pinging and possibly a broken piston or bent rod.
Can I get a witness? chime chime.
 
  #25  
Old 08-29-2010, 12:26 PM
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Well usually a plug siezes because it was cross threaded or over tightened or corroded. Corrosion is the most common cause barring the idiot factor.

Perry
 
  #26  
Old 08-29-2010, 01:01 PM
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ExV10,
I don't disagree with you at all, the water just creats mass and as you eluded to it and will disapate the carbon. The water is not rock solid, it compress's against the carbon.
 
  #27  
Old 08-29-2010, 01:43 PM
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It actually soaks the carbon and softens it. The solid water factor doesn't enter into the picture at all. It has the same effect as blowing a head gasket between 2 cylinders on a gas engine and it heats up and blows steam out the exhaust resulting in an excellent steam cleaning job on those 2 holes.
 
  #28  
Old 08-29-2010, 04:24 PM
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Yeah, it was always my understanding the water steam cleans the plugs.

I've used the old school method many times, you just have to be careful because water doesn't compress like fuel does and too much water will cause mechanical parts of your engine to give first.

Bent rod, spun bearing, cracked piston...it can get ugly pretty quick.

Stewart
 
  #29  
Old 08-29-2010, 07:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Stewart_H
Yeah, it was always my understanding the water steam cleans the plugs.

I've used the old school method many times, you just have to be careful because water doesn't compress like fuel does and too much water will cause mechanical parts of your engine to give first.

Bent rod, spun bearing, cracked piston...it can get ugly pretty quick.

Stewart
Are you being facetious? Also, neither one compresses and a water spray is not going to cause bent rods etc.

Solid water compresses exactly the same as fuel which is near zero.
 
  #30  
Old 08-29-2010, 08:14 PM
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The fuel burns inside the cylinder and explodes, water does not in a V-10 engine.
As I'm not a chemist I will leave it at that.
I will leave all the other evulations to someone who knows more than me.
 

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