New improvements
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From: Triad of NC
New improvements
I installed the Flowmaster 40 series this afternoon. I was kind of questioning myself on whether to do it or not fearing it would sound like a Honda Civic, but I was quite pleased with the results. It has a "v8-like" rumble with a near quiet ride in the cab. After I removed the original muffler, I started up the truck. At that point I wanted to take the new muffler back an buy a longer tailpipe! It sounded so sweet, too bad the law demands street cars have some sort of muffler.
Next up, I would like to drop the truck about 3 inches. I know nothing about doing that, anyone have any advice ?
Next up, I would like to drop the truck about 3 inches. I know nothing about doing that, anyone have any advice ?
Last edited by Ken00; Feb 18, 2003 at 12:22 PM.
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New improvements
I told you it would sound good. My 4 banner sounded cool without the muffler two, but o'well can't have everthing. Actually if you want that sound on a temperary basis u can have it. Look in JEGS or any performance parts catalog, for a electronic syleniod dump, or pull cable dump system. This looks like a Y pipe that has a flaper switch inside. You install it just before your cat, and run the cable or wires to were you want the switch. When you pull the cable/push the switch, boom you have open manifold. Then simply switch it back and your through the mufflers.
I just put one on my 95 F-150(just purchased !5.8!) I love it. Cops try to get me for it. I shut it of and tell them its an exhaust leak. The switch only cost me 80 for the elctronic, and I think 50 for the pull cable.
As far as lowreing goes I have never really dealt with that much but I can give you a site to vist:
www.stillen.com
Where do you live I might know some custom shops around that to good work at good prices. I'll look around and see what I can find though.
I just put one on my 95 F-150(just purchased !5.8!) I love it. Cops try to get me for it. I shut it of and tell them its an exhaust leak. The switch only cost me 80 for the elctronic, and I think 50 for the pull cable.
As far as lowreing goes I have never really dealt with that much but I can give you a site to vist:
www.stillen.com
Where do you live I might know some custom shops around that to good work at good prices. I'll look around and see what I can find though.
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From: Triad of NC
New improvements
You were right, it sounds great! Only problem I'm having right now is the clamps aren't holding the pipes real good. I move them in position and tighten the clamps, then I ride up the street and then the tailpipe starts vibrating on the frame. I'm going to look into some muffler shops tomorrow and see about getting the connections welded.
Right now, I don't have the funds to throw into lowering the truck. I live in Orlando FL, for now... I'm moving to Winston-Salem, NC next month.
Right now, I don't have the funds to throw into lowering the truck. I live in Orlando FL, for now... I'm moving to Winston-Salem, NC next month.
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Joined: Jul 2001
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New improvements
I lowered my '99 Ranger 3" all around with springs. I did the back myself since it is only a matter of switching springs and shocks, but the front requires springs, shocks and an alignment kit plus alignment so I farmed it out to a pro shop. I also added a new grill shell with alum grill in shell and valence, roll pan and white instrument mask (my gallery is Dono's Toy). Good luck.
Dono
Dono
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From: Triad of NC
New improvements
Dude, I love your truck! Thats pretty much exactly what I want to do with mine! Since we have the same year truck, you wouldn't happen to have part #'s and prices still laying around ?
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Originally posted by serialbowl00
Dude, I love your truck! Thats pretty much exactly what I want to do with mine! Since we have the same year truck, you wouldn't happen to have part #'s and prices still laying around ?
Dude, I love your truck! Thats pretty much exactly what I want to do with mine! Since we have the same year truck, you wouldn't happen to have part #'s and prices still laying around ?
I don't have part #'s, but you don't need them. As I recall, the grill shell and grill was a little over $100 (I had a little accident and had to replace the first one I installed - I used the damaged first grill to make the insert grill for the valence). The aero/running board kit, paint and rail bars were approx $900. The roll pan was cheap and cost more to paint than to buy (took a little fitting and I had to add the license lights). I lowered the rear myself and the cost for springs and shocks was around $200. I had the front done ( coils, shocks, alignment kit and alignment) for a little over $400. A friend made the stainless steel tips for me and a local muffler shop welded on the two small mufflers and pipes. I would advise that you get a copy of Truckin magazine and check for your parts with their advertisers - that's what I did.
The ride quality will suffer a little with the lowering but it's not bad - be sure to get good shocks designed for a lowered truck.
Good luck, and enjoy your project.
Dono
