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Just to rephrase the question. I would have to take all the stuff around the hubs to get them off to clean them, like the caliper, rotor and the other stuff?
marshall
diggum's truck is a '96, so he has the 3-screw hub locks and only one bearing nut - not the 2 you described. His requires a super-rare (I've never seen one) tool to adjust on installation, and I don't think the one NAPA wants to sell him is gonna do it.
diggum
I have a set of '96 hub locks & the nuts that I took out of my axle - if you want, I'll post pics of them into this album.
ok, no you don't have to remove the caliper or any thing else to inspect, clean, replace, what ever the 4x4 hub. hust remove the hub cap either 3 bolt or the other, and the actual cam itself is there in the end of the rotor hub, remeber ther is another hub in the rotor. it's what your brg's and brg races are set into. and if yours is a 96 yah you got the funky c-clip deal that requiers a big thin wall 1/2 drive socket that we get from otc. remeber each rotor on a 4x4 has two hubs, a hub and brg. assy. and a 4x4 hub assy. 4x4 hubs can be completly removed by themselves. the hub and brg assy. requires the rotor to be removed from veh. hope this helps i'm not use to typing on boards or posting like this just trying to help.
Thanks Marshall, Mine bronco is a 91. I will check give it a shot when the 20 inches of snow melts and it warms up a little. I'm sure they probably need a cleaning
glad to help out, i'm a new member here and i'm having fun answering some of the questions. i will admit it's difficult keeping the different years and setups clear in my head when dealing with hubs, and brg. nuts and what tools are used to work with them.
Hey diggum: I recently purchased the nut removal tool that you are looking for at Auto Zone. It is a 2 1/2" thin wall socket and if memory serves I think it was about $14.00. Hope this helps.
AIM: that is the tool. It was on the shelf with about five others. Unfortunately I needed it to convert to manual hubs from Mile Marker so it was a one time use but worth every penny!!!
Well thanks for all the help guys. But that is not the tool. If you look at steves picks you will see that there on the hub under the cap there is a funky thing that has 6 groves in it and that is where the tool will fit in it is round not like a socket. Again thanks for the try.
well niow if we can jsut make it so when i open my tool box and reach in i can grab your tools. Like Felix the cats magic bag of tricks. then my problems will be solved.
Sorry man, I'm very picky on who touches my tools...send pics..
Jeez, I can't believe they don't have the tool down there in California where you live.
I took another look look at mine and it's only a 4 pin. Seems like my F100 is a three pin, but I, "loaned" that one out about 8 years ago. Good thing the F100 spindle nut comes off easy.
Why don't you just build one? They aren't built to all that much of an exacting tolerance. Finding a piece of pipe the right diameter would be the hard part, but measure it and you might luck out with a standard size. Smear some grease on the nut and use it to make a mark on the end of the pipe where the notches go. Then a little grinder and file work, drill a couple holes in the opposite end for a tire iron-you're in business. Might not be purty, but there's nothing like a homebuilt tool.
If I didn't have the tools to do that. I would probably mark it with the grease, hack-saw the notches and take it down to a welding shop and have them grind it down. I'd take a cheap 1/2" drive stubby extention with me, so they could weld that on the end. Shouldn't take too long in labor, unless you grab for their tools, then who knows?
Make sure to over-size the notches a bit, so you can file them for a snug fit. I've never messed with the automatic hubs, (I'd replace), but while my 76 pickup nuts can be taken off with a couple of screwdrivers, my Bronco nuts are torqued on at about 200 ft/pds. Big cheater bar time.