2006 F-350 6.0 6 speed
Update on my A/C problem:
The problem: after starting the truck and turning the A/C on high the air gets cold, but then it tends to warm up, then get cold, the compressor seems to be cycling on and off. Once moving air is always cold. If you get stopped in traffic and its hot 90 + the air will get warm when sitting. Today I connected our A/C machine to the truck hoping for low charge. I evaced the system, I got 2.60 lbs out, pull a vac and held fine. Got very little oil out, recharged system with 2.82 lbs and 0.5 oz of oil. I started the truck and turned the A/C on, I watched the gauges and noticed my high side gauge building pressure up to about 350 PSI, the low side was off the scale, I shut off the valves to gauges to avoid damage. The high side gauge kind of pulsated its way up, not a steady climb. I noticed then the compressor kicked off, assuming the high pressure switch cut in. The compressor would cycle on and off this way. I noticed the fan never engaged, it just free-wheels. I think the problem I'm having is I'm not getting enough air flow through the condenser at idle. Once I'm moving, I have enough air flow and everything is fine. Does the fan have anything to do with the A/C function? Maybe an updated flash? I don't know what flash I have. My fan does engage, on really hot days it has come on, like if I'm sitting at a light, it will come on and run for a few seconds until I'm up to speed. Sorry for the long post!
Thanks!

 

I experienced these exact same issues with my AC for about two before my compressor seized on me. Don't know if that helps, but be prepared because you'll lose your serpentine belt and it's not able to be driven. $1,200 to R/R compressor. ouch.

 

My truck does the same thing, with it bein warm at idle and cold when getting over 40 mph. Im outta ideas, as its been doin it for two months. Does your truck make a squeaking noise when you turn it off?

 

I put an electric fan on mine ,, my comprerssor is brand new but in all honesty my last chevy was 2x better in the AC dept

 

Yes I would also like to know about this. Mine does the same thing and yes it does squeal when I take off, especially when I first start it and turn it on. Thought it was the belt at first, but I do not hink it is. Seems like the compresure is sticking, because the belt is moving around alot like it is having a hard time turning and like it is moving the tensioner. By the sounds of this it looks like I maybe having the compressure that is starting to seize. What do you think?

 

Have you checked the distance in the clutch of the compressor? I forget what the clearance is supposed to be, but if it's too worn, it'll do what you describe. Ya gotta remove a shim that's in there. You don't have to remove the freon either.

Scroll down to the Air Conditioning thread.... maybe someone will know that +- .000 numbers.

 

I don't think its a clutch issue, its the high pressure switch turning off the compressor. I don't have any belt squeal.
Thanks

 

BPofMD the gap should be .00023 of a inch. I measured mine and it was way off. Got new shims from the dealer and it helped the a/c get a little colder at high speeds but didnt do anything for the a/c to be colder at idle

 

Read this thread for a lot of good information on a/c clutch gap.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/5...-problems.html

The gap you are looking for is more like .030

 

Wow my 2003 F350 does the exact same thing with the high side and low side pressure. I also do not think it is an issue with the clutch. Have you checked the orfice valve? Mine was full of particles, I changed it but did not fix the problem. From all the research I have done and people I have talked to I think the Accumulator is clogged up not allowing pressure to pass from the high side to the low side, an A/C tech also said that the valves in the compressor could cause the problems. Either way the fix is to vac system take it apart and Flush the lines with A/C flush and a dry air flush gun then replace the compresser and the accumulator along with the orfice valve then put it back together vac and charge with oil and freon. Also best to replace O-rings on all fittings while apart.

 

I have found A/C repair kits online that have the compressor, accumulator and orfice valve and o-ring kit for under 300. I have not done mine yet, I guess I just hate to spend money on something I dont really need. I mean it sucks very, very, very bad to drive in DC traffic with no A/C everyday and in the interest of public saftey I should probally fix it but I just spent 200 on parts for fuel filter, oil and filter, and coolant flush and replace. I figure these were more important for me at the moment.

Also I have seen the A/C flush guns online but I dont know the price.

If anyone has any new developments on this problem with the A/C systems please let me know, I will do the same whenever I get the time and money to repair mine.

 

Ya it is .030 My bad lol

dillehay, is that all hard to do?

 

I could not say how hard it would be for you, depends on the scope of tear down you are comfortable with I guess. The good thing is its only an A/C you can go without if your repair process goes south, just have a non-A/C belt on hand before so you can by-pass A/C if you need to drive the truck. At least removing the components would save you in labor if you were not able to do it all for whatever reason. Just make sure your system is evac before you disassemble anything, and the flush is the key without it any repair would be in vain if crap was still in the lines and evaporator. So that Flush gun is key along with using the proper A/C flush, it removes all the oil residue still coating the lines and stuff along with and particles in the system but it has to use dry air only any moisture from regular compressed air would bring your system back down. The rest of the repair is just turning wrenches, drinking beers and a few outbursts of anger.

I will be doing this repair soon, hopefully I will let you know how it goes, in my opinion no repair that I can do is worth paying someone else to do it, even if I mess it up and it ends up costing twice the amount of a professional repair. You cant really put a price on knowledge and I would rather gain that knowledge first hand when ever possible.

 

dillehay, does your A/C operate normal when moving? I should really install the gauges and check pressure when I'm driving to further diagnose the problem.

 

May not have any thing to add but will just throw this out..My AC would get cold going down the road but when I stopped and idled it would be much warmer. Finally found heater valve vacuum line disconnected. After reconnecting it is now cold all the time. I didn't seem to have all the symptoms as you..