My Question: Would you replace first the, ICM or PIP (distributor).

Couldn't see where to send you a PM, so I thought I'd ask here hope you dont mind, you seem to be quite the ford guru.

I've been all over the internet looking for advice on troubleshooting the PIP issue im having and your name pops up everywhere.

My quick background: 1995 F-350 460 4x4 E4OD. 240k miles.

Problem: Engins will randomly not start or just quit when driving. Sometimes starting back up sometimes not. Does not happen daily. Remove the SPOUT and it will usually start. KOEO code 211 only (pip sensor fault).

Troubleshot: Grounds, ICM connection and dieletric grease, ECM connections and wires. Tugged and tapped everything related while engine was running to try and stal the engine.

The distributor was worn, but not horribly. Dont have a press to install new PIP and gear. Bought a replacement distributor (refurb) engine would not run after spout was reconected. Thinking of picking up a new distributor but just an auto part store one, not motorcraft (400.00) cant afford it but can afford the new auto store brand one 140.00.

What would you do? replace the dist. or ICM? Also would engine coolant temp cause a pip fault?

 

The manual says:
"DTC 211 indicates two successive erratic Profile Ignition Pickup (PIP) pulses occurred, resulting in a possible engine miss or stall.

Possible causes:
--Loose wires/connectors.
--Arcing secondary ignition components (coil, cap, rotor, wires, plugs, etc.).
--On-board transmitter (2-way radio)."

But most of the time on here it turns out to be a bad PIP sensor.
Are you clearing the 211 code by grounding the STI wire and when the MIL starts flashing taking the ground away? This will clear it. If it comes back then the PIP sensor in the distributor you have now is bad also as most are from a auto part stores that have been rebuilt.

Although your problem also sounds a lot like a bad PCM also.
Putting the SPOUT back in and the engine dieing.
The computer may also have a defect generating the 211 code.
I would think your ICM to be good but if you replace it make sure the one you replace it with is Black in color and the one you have in there now should also be black in color.

I know all the books say to use a press to take the gear off and put it back on but I have done it without one. Just make sure you support the gear with something like a bearing separator and hit the shaft with a brass hammer and a brass punch. Tap it back on with a socket and a hammer. If the gear has more than one set of holes mark the holes so the gear goes back on in the same place.

No it would not.

 

Thanks again for your help. I took all this info and decided there was a high possibility that the first refrub distributor was bad as well, since it had way different results than my stock one...which worked 95% of the time.

I got another refurb today put it in and it runs smooth and flawless. I drove it about 20 miles and had no issues.

Yes I cleared the codes while the MIL was flashing. And yes the 211 kept coming back. After I put in the distributor tonight, I cleared the codes once more. This time I get the good ol 111's

And remember, when I got the 1st referb I put the spout back in and it ran bad...soon as I put the old girl back in it never did it. So it points the issue to a defective refurb. So I think the PCM is fine.

Im drivin it to work tomorrow because I want to be 100% the issue is gone .

Hey, thanks for all your help, I see your very involved in the older ford truck community and I think I can speak for every one that we appreciate your expertise. I've learned with this truck that there is not a ton of expert on these now MAF engines, especially the efi 460's.

 

subford,
Thanks again for all your help getting a functioning oil pressure gauge on my 1990 F-150, 4.9 L, I6. I ended up replacing the "switch" on the block with a bell shaped oil sending unit off a '66 v-8 (long story). The gauge now seems to function as a real pressure gauge, fluctuating with rpm and temperature. Now I'm curious. Do you have any schematics or cut-away pictures of this older style, bell shaped unit. It seems to be the "real deal" in measuring pressure.
Thanks again. rudyrides@gmail.com

 

Guys out there like Subford and Steve83 (are they the same?) are invaluble to the communities they post with. Much appreciation and thanks go to them.

 

rudyrides,

Is this what you are looking for:


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Subford,
my last reply disappeared before I could finish. I echo the appreciation and thanks expressed by 5Rangers. Thank you so much again. I spent a 1/2 hour on the internet trying to find information about these oil pressure units with zero success.
rudyrides