Yes, I have done everything mentioned above. The top bolt on the alternator is a stud bolt (not the same as the bottom 2). I have removed the nut so the stud bolt is still attached to the alternator bracket. I cant get this stud bolt off. The alternator can slide along the bolt but I cant get it off because it runs out of room. I'm thinking of moving it as far as it will go and attempt to remove the 3 bolts that hold down the alternator bracket. Is this possible with the alternator almost off but hanging on that top bolt and moved over a few inches?


The top bolt is threaded at either end then smooth in the middle where the alternator is touching it. The very end where the nut came off isn't round, it looks like a star or the end of a torx screw driver.

 

Just finished changing the alternator on my 2005 Escape. I have only cried twice as an adult. Once when my son was born and the second time when the alternator finally flopped outta my Ford. I cried and danced around that sumbich on the garage floor.

A tip or two that may help someone:

The 05 also has cooling vents attached to the back of the unit to contend with. Use a screwdriver and push the tab in while sliding the alternator out. It is now bigger than it should be as there is a funnel shaped duct bolted to your alternator with 3 small bolts. Near the end I was able to spin the unit around and remove the duct. Not sure you need to but I was so frustrated at that point that I needed any advantage to get it out.

Right at the end I had a hard time getting it past the space where the axle was. I found the two bolts that hold up the middle axle in their bracket were in the way so I was able to tap them out using penetrating spray first. Then, there was a small bracket sticking out that holds a couple of thick wires. The top wire has a plastic clip, use a screwdriver and pull off. Behind that is a bolt, loosen that and fold the bracket parallel to the block so it no longer sticks out.

I also had to loosen the passenger side motor mount using an 18M socket. Then I used a second jack with a small block of wood under the oil pan and pushed the motor up an inch or two.

The new one went in pretty fast thank god. I spent about 8 hours total on this. Total cost was the new alternator which was $171 plus tax here in Canada. Hope it lasts longer than I own this vehicle.

 

Quote: "Then I used a second jack with a small block of wood under the oil pan and pushed the motor up an inch or two. "

There is a quote in the shop manual that the pan is NOT to be uses as a support for the engine out of the vehicle. I hope it was not damaged by the wooden block.

If the stud had a torkx socket on its end, perhaps it was meant to be unscrewed from the block and follow the alternator out, and be re-installed the same way. I have yet to have the experience, so haven't checked all the details. I have read that 'mechanics' know more than the engineers who designed the beast, and make the 'decision' to leave out ventilation ductwork originally installed. At least if I do the job, it will go back together the way is was intended. Perhaps the alternator will last longer...
tom

 

Here is the prescribed method to removing the alternator... from AllData which is a copy of the FSM for all intents and purposes. It calls for dropping the axle...

 

Sounds like Ford has been taking lessons from Chrysler. 3.3 and 3.8L minivans pre 1996 require you to almost remove the engine to get the top rear mounted alternator off. You actually have to remove a brace from the casting and exhaust manifold to get the lower bolt out.

 

It appears that the stud came out of the block when you tried to take the nut off of it.

 

I had the privilege of replacing this on a 2003 Escape (V6). I did NOT have to remove the drivers side axle assembly which is absurd to begin with.

This can be removed by taking out the passenger side motor mount bolts (much simpler + easy to get to). It's a challenge but you'll have to raise and lower the engine to work the alternator out from the top (tight against the firewall). In addition this will allow you to pry the motor toward the front of the vehicle for even more clearance - it's still very tight however, and the alternator will need to be rotated a certain way to squeeze by. I also did not have to remove the 'alternator air duct' (plastic) - I was able to use extensions and a swivel to get around that.

Anyway - I was sure to test the alternator before putting everything back together. Confirmed that it's putting out close to 14 volts with the car running.

Now, 1 week later the battery light has turned back on and the alternator is no longer charging. Yes, this is a parts store brand (unsure of the exact brand) and not a genuine $ motorcraft one.

Upon further web investigation I'm coming across many instances of the alternators continuing to fail after being replaced. I suspect that these are also 'parts store' ones but it's still occurring way too frequently. Below is several page link of people with the same issue.

changing alternator 2003 escape - Topix

I can't help but blame the moron Ford engineers that put a 'maintenance' item in such a poor location. Now I get to spend another day replacing this.

*edit - not that it will do any good but I've sent my 'inquiry' about this to ford using the following link > https://secure.corporate.ford.com/fo...Topic=flmowner

 

If you haven't fixed it yet this may help:
I just finished fixing my uncles 2006 ford escape here's the history. My uncle drove the vehicle for short trips in town and was stranded with a dead battery when he shut the vehicle off several times he took it to goodwrench first and they changed the alternator. This didnt fix the problem and he noticed the lights would sometimes come on really bright and the fan would speed up for a few seconds. The ford dealer was next and also changed the alternator, twice, with no change then told my uncle the battery was bad. When I tested the battery voltage he had charged it and it read 12.4 volts, upon starting this went to 13.3 then bounced around from 10.7 all the way to 13.8. The higher voltages indicated that the alternator was functioning the lower voltages indicated a resistance between the alternator and the rest of the vehicle. I put one end of a set of jumper cables on the frame ground terminal and the other end on the engine block this resulted in a charge voltage of 14.6. The terminals on the negative battery cable to the engine block appeared good but I replaced it anyway and once it was off I could see signs of heating, a main indicator of a bad connection. The $20 battery cable cost my uncle $700 worth of alternators over a one year period and is probably the cause of the alternators going bad. Good luck

 

When I first bought my 05 escape new I looked where that alternator was at. I figured it couldnt be that bad. 120000 miles and this is the first time I didnt finish a project. (NCAA was on at 6 and I started at 2) I got to the freaking top alternator nut working from top down. I didn't have the right tool to get that nut off. I almost stripped it and stopped. I failed for the first time. I had to put it back together for the game. I would like to go back in time and burst into the escape engineering meeting at Ford with a bat. I know this is planned but what a nightmare for diys who were taught this stuff by our dads! I am not complaining that an alternator went out at a hundred twenty thousand miles that's common I just am getting sick and tired of these engineers who squeeze this stuff in like this.

 

I am currently faced with the same problems. I've done countless of engine swaps, transmissions to even rebuilding an engine block. This by far is the hardest and stupidest project I have ever done. So far I've taken off the axle, got the two bottom bolts off on alternator, managed to get the top alternator bolt off. Thanks for your guys post I now can try to wrestle off the top stud. Got the top vent off only by giving up and was going the whole break the plastic piece route, now for the life of me I can't even remove the damn alternator plug. I got the 10mm positive cable off, but can not remove the wire underneath it. And also the last 2 8mm lower vent bolts using numerous varieties of extensions to a 8mm wrench this project has made me contemplate on pushing this car off a cliff. Unless I have abnormally huge hands, how are you guys having enough room from up top to remove these bolts? Also any help with removing the lower sensor would be highly appreciated.

 

I honestly can't remember. I just had mine replaced bit couldn't muster the courage to tackle it again so a friend I went to school with did it for me.

 

The last time I did it, the alternator had caught fire, so I broke off the shroud and did it all from the top. without the stupid shroud, it's not that bad of a job. I'm 6-5 300# and got my hands down there. The "underneath route" had me spending 5 hours of misery to the point I was going to just beat the whle damn car with a pipe. lol

 

Ok after 3 extra hours spent on this alternator. I would say by far the easiest thing to food to remove the top upper alternator stud. It's a 1/4 socket. After removing the stud was able to rotate the alternator around to get the plug off from between the passenger wheel. At the same time I decided to just break the lower cooling vent, after the 8mm bolts were some how stripped. Also bringing the alternator up from the top of the engine, I had to loosing up the intake manifold. I know people can do it without loosing up the intake manifold but by the time I got to this step of removing the alternator I was dead tired and out of energy and was done fighting with this car. Thank god for this forum, the numerous other tutorials and steps made this job 1000x harder than it had to be, now I have to put everything back together.

 

I cheated on my '02.
The serpentine belt can be removed from the top with a 3/8 ratchet and a piece of pipe on the handle.
With about 1 foot of 3/8 extensions on the ratchet and a flex coupling, you can access the alternator bolts from underneath near the Y-pipe coupling to the flex pipe. All three of them. Once removed, the alternator can be turned to allow access to the wires. Removal isn't too bad if you jack up the rear of the engine (mounts left intact) an inch or so and bring the alternator straight up the back side of the engine. A couple wires/hoses need to be moved, but it's much easier than the prescribed method.
Removal time in junkyard with minimal tools and no instructions - about 2 hours.
Total replacement time at home in the driveway - about the same since I had already figured it out.
The alternator ALMOST fits between the engine and firewall with the engine sitting normally on the mounts. Jacking up the rear of the engine adds space between the intake and firewall. You need to do some twisting and turning of the alternator remove the old one and to install the new one.
Only thing I would do differently is to tie a piece of cord through the top mount to aid in lifting and lowering. Finger tip grip to manuver it wasn't nice to my arthritis.
DON'T FORGET TO DISCONNECT THE BATTERY.

 

I wish I thought of that at the time. I was able to barely get it through but with loosing up the intake manifold.

Now on a side note everything worked for about a good solid day. Now I have a new problem. When I go to start the suv, It indicates that the gauge cluster is stuck in (D) which now it won't even start up. The transmission after works perfectly fine and shifts through all the gears. But the indicator on the dash stays in (D) no matter what I do. I was able to reset the battery which temporarily allowed me to start the suv up and to get it home (thank god, it was only a mile away). Now after resetting the battery (leaving the positive battery cable off for 10 mins). The car will start up indicating the car is in (P) park and then immediately shut off and the gauge cluster shows it back in (D) drive again. Do you guys have any suggestions? I followed the gear selector cable back to the transmission and everything is intact. Which makes me believe it is a sensor issue especially after it keeps shutting off. Right now I'm looking at nuertal safety switch and someone mentioned transmission range switch. Any ideas?