it's for a 5.8L 351W Club Wagon.

I've read through all the tips I could find about changing the spark plugs and I'm pretty sure they're
similar for what I need to do, but I was just wondering if maybe there's someone with the same year and model who has done this and could give some more specific advice.

There sure isn't very much room to work in there...and running the wires under the upper intake manifold is crazy.

Anyway...thanks for checking this out.

Oh yeah, this might sound like a silly question, but is the I-beam in the front the same as the left and right axles? I read in another post that the front jacking position is under the radius arm at the I-beam...so my question about that is where exactly in these pictures would I place the jack? I just want to make sure so I don't go breaking anything. It doesn't sound like I'll really need to jack it up to get to the plugs though.

 

I absolutely HATE these Ford E's for changing plugs! The 5.4's with aluminum heads, coil-on-plug are complete jokes for this chore--hate it I'm sayin' !!

When lifting my '00 E250 and depending why it needs raised (flat for example) I first go towards the outside end of the I Beam---close to the lower ball joint. Supporting by way of a GOOD jack stand is accomplished near the end of a frame rail somewhere near the front sway bar mounts. I NEVER crawl under ANY vehicle with just a jack for support--NEVER!

Most floor jacks won't lift any of the E's just in the center so I lift one side first, support it then move to the other side. (Flat repair is different of course--one wheel at a time.) IF your jack can lift it however the I Beams come together at a common pivot point in the center of the crossmember---its a very strong lifting point. Just make certain the jack is centered so you're off balance and suffer possibly the truck slipping off the jack completely.

I feel your pain on changing plugs---I'm handy enough with tools and repairs but was somewhat concerned about changing mine with the alum heads etc. One of my customer's has an '06 F-150, bragged what an easy chore this was for him---I offered him $100 cash to do mine, me supplying parts etc. I had him install Granatelli improved C-O-P's along with fresh plugs. Ford recommends using a nickel-based anti-sieze compound on the plug threads but I've always done this regardless the vehicle or year--it makes for easy removal next time.

So anyway be careful and you'll be fine----hope I've helped even if just a bit.


J W

 

Thanks for the reply JW.
I'll be going out there to work on it this afternoon.
I don't think I'll really need to jack it up to do the plugs....it doesn't sound like anyone else had to or if they did it still didn't make it any easier to get to the plugs.
I was starting to think about taking off the upper manifold because it might make it easier to get the plugs changed, but the more I researched that job the more I started thinking that'd be crazy.

 

Yeah don't remove anything not absolutely necessary----professional mechanics learn and practice this daily. A few bolts to remove is the plan---a week later working in the driveway at night, cussing up a storm and still those few bolts are laughing at you still. Torches, saws, hammers---literally throwing the toolbox at a simple job doesn't even help.

When changing plugs IF I had an indoor garage, plenty of equipment I'd simply remove the entire engine first--no kidding! While its out check a few other things nearly impossible to access normally, fix them as needed and reinstall. I might sound like a silly idea but anyone who works on the flamin' trucks know its not that bad an idea!

Best of luck with that----after all its only time.....and knuckle skin........and questions WHY do I need a van????


J W

 

just completed changing plugs on my '93 351W. Cylinder #1 is a pain, but I was able to accomplish it all from inside with dog house removed. Patience and ability to accept small bruises are required. I removed boot by hand, then slipped on the socket then added the wrench after socket was solidly on the plug. I had also removed the 2 nuts that hold large piping running next to #1 cylinder so as to allow a very slight amount of bumping them out of the way... hope that helps.

Now, as far as cap and rotor...I would love advice on that. Is it accessible after removing the air cleaner assy or what??