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What did you do to the X today?

 
  #49921  
Old 05-13-2019, 02:58 PM
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Good point about being a pilot. It is sobering to think how pilots, who are responsible for the craft upon which their life and the lives of their passengers depend, are still entirely at the mercy of the airplane mechanics.

In the one photo that Stebs posted, his wheel was entirely off of the machined hub land, and was at the moment of the photo now being supported by the tapered part of the hub.

Even though the wheel was high enough on the taper for the one remaining stud passing through it to reach, the swiveling lug nut on that stud had walked all the way to the end of the stud, to the point of running out of exposed threads.

Very subtly, it also appears that the wheel is not square to the rotor, but is ever so slightly cocked at an angle to the brake roter face, where it is closer to the brake rotor where the remaining stud is, and ever so slightly fanning away from the rotor 180 degrees from that stud, aft.

All this is to explain why the stubs of the broken studs cannot be seen in the photo. Sean asked where do wheel studs break... and that is best answered with another photo:



As my photo above plainly shows, the stress induced on a wheel stud occurs within the stud bore of the wheel, immediately after the hub flange, at the wheel to hub junction. You can literally see how the stud stretches to the point of permanent deformation. The stud has yielded at the wheel to hub flange junction, within the wheel stud bore itself. The stud threads outboard of the wheel are perfectly intact, as they have endured no stress. The tension is between the stud head behind the hub flange and the swiveling flange of the lug nut. Since the pressed in portion of the stud is thicker than the threaded portion of the stud, and since mechanical stress on threads is something like 75% on the first thread, 20% on the next thread, 5% on the third thread (not exactly but that is simply illustrative of the high bias load on the first thread)... there is a point of concentration where studs can fail. And that point is very near the hub flange, over the machined portion of the hub land.

Since the wheel in Stebs photo had already walked off of the machined hub land, and was working it's way down the taper, it is reasonable not to be able to see any bright cross sections of torn apart studs in the shadows of the stud bores of the wheel, as the wheel is distanced away from the hub flange.

For a wheel stud to be removed by a saboteur in a parking lot, the studs have to come out backwards, toward the brake roter, after being pounded in the inboard direction. Not likely to happen without a lot of attention getting noise and a lot of time.

This looks to me as if in the previous rotation, the wheel lug nuts were over torqued, and as a result of over torquing, the wheel studs YIELDED. It is not possible to see that the studs yielded without loosening all of the lug nuts and physically removing the wheel to check the condition of the otherwise hidden portion of stud that is encapsulated by the wheel and is most vulnerable to getting stretched. It is also difficult to feel when a stud yields, especially when using pneumatic or electric tools to tighten the lug nuts. That is why I tighten mine by hand, and that is how I was able to feel when the stud shown in the photo above yielded. I could feel it. I knew there and then before driving the truck.

In Stebs case, the studs had YIELDED, but had not broken. Just like the stud in my photo isn't broken. With the yielded portion hidden, down the merry way he went. It wasn't until the rear axle was exposed to more extreme stresses... such as towing a trailer for 40 miles along a curvy road, and ultimately, backing a trailer around in a lumber yard, that the those yielded studs that had been tensioned beyond their strength and range of elasticity popped, taking the lug nuts with them. The last pop when backing the trailer in the yard cocked the wheel that had walked off of the hub land, because with only one stud remaining, there was now a single pivot point.

That is my guess as to what happened.
 
  #49922  
Old 05-13-2019, 03:08 PM
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That’s nuts...some ******* got happy with an air ratchet...
 
  #49923  
Old 05-13-2019, 05:55 PM
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And now I have to replace all my old *** wheel studs on the rear. Thanks Y2K...
 
  #49924  
Old 05-13-2019, 08:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Nicmike View Post
And now I have to replace all my old *** wheel studs on the rear. Thanks Y2K...
You know you were already planning on doing that. LOL
 
  #49925  
Old 05-13-2019, 09:01 PM
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Originally Posted by ExxWhy View Post
Good thing you aren't a pilot.
trust me, it really annoys me......
 
  #49926  
Old 05-13-2019, 09:09 PM
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Originally Posted by Flyboy1100 View Post
trust me, it really annoys me......
On top of that it's those darn controllers telling you where to go.
 
  #49927  
Old 05-14-2019, 08:29 AM
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Originally Posted by ExxWhy View Post
On top of that it's those darn controllers telling you where to go.
Unable, cancel IFR
 
  #49928  
Old 05-14-2019, 10:02 AM
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Originally Posted by wildstang View Post
This morning I changed the right rear disk, caliper and pads. Looks like one of the Pistons stuck. The inside pad was down to metal and the outside face of the disk had a crack. Inside was wore down pretty thin. Hopefully fuel mileage will go up 1 or 2 mpg.
Also changed the weather stripping on the rear doors to get rid of those rattling.
The middle row seat, the 70% section is stuck down. It is a mechanical issue, not because it is wedged into the front seat. I have a thread going on about it currently
Originally Posted by SmackDaddy View Post
My second row 70% did the same not long ago. You have to get the tooth o catch, itís worn.
I did get it.
There was a book sandwiched between the seat and floor not allowing the seat to go down quite far enough to disengage the lock.
The 70% portion wouldn't slide forward either. On the right side that the spring was missing from, there was too much play in the sandwiched metal plates so it wasn't engaging push down to unlock the slide mechanism. I took a pair of vise grips, clamped it together and put a worm clamp on the pin to keep it all tight and together. now it works.


worm clamp to keep everything sandwiched together tight.
 
  #49929  
Old 05-14-2019, 10:11 AM
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Originally Posted by Nicmike View Post
Jim, the medical tubing is a thing of the past. You can get the new, updated door seals from several manufacturers now that have additional rubber material in them. This solves the whole problem the medical tubing was band-aiding. Rockauto or Ford has the new seals with the extra lobe on them.
Originally Posted by 96firephoenix View Post
you mean this stuff that's been out of stock for the last couple of months? https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...372362&jsn=467
Originally Posted by Nicmike View Post
Look at FO1390112 under 05 Super Duty crew cab. Fits front doors...3 left
I ordered this from Amazon
Amazon Amazon
seems to work good so far.

old on top, new on bottom
that is a crappy picture. I'll have to do a different one later
 
  #49930  
Old 05-14-2019, 10:19 AM
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Originally Posted by Flyboy1100 View Post
Unable, cancel IFR
Squawk 1200 Have a good day!
 
  #49931  
Old 05-14-2019, 11:26 AM
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Originally Posted by wildstang View Post
I ordered this from Amazon
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
seems to work good so far.

old on top, new on bottom
that is a crappy picture. I'll have to do a different one later
like this?



from here, https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...t-on-back.html
 
  #49932  
Old 05-14-2019, 06:01 PM
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Looks the same. I didn't get it from that post, these aren't the genuine Ford ones.
 
  #49933  
Old 05-15-2019, 12:51 PM
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Here ya guys go.. he guessed they were either under tightened or came loose, I still canít believe I didnít feel it sooner...


 
  #49934  
Old 05-15-2019, 02:03 PM
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I turned 350k on her while driving to work today.
 
  #49935  
Old 05-15-2019, 04:16 PM
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I adjusted my master cylinder to get better brake feel. Took it for a drive, still could come out a little more.
 

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