you mentioned a miss on #8 cylinder ? details of when it started ?

I got my harness rebuilt and put it back in before I left for Mexico and I has a miss on # 8 cylinder, buzz test sounds fine.
I put a ohm meter on the injectors from the IDM 42 pin connector and #3 and #8 had high resistance. after considerable thought and further testing I went back to my aerospace schooling and did a pin drag test, basically checking the tension on the female connector and sure enough #3 and * were loose. somehow either by putting weight on the harness during the turbo removal or when I removed the harness itself the female connectors got "bent". I ordered new pig tails from diesel Orings and will solder them in when I return next week. I did take the connector apart and crimped the female connector tighter and it fixed the miss. but I am not going to rely on that as permanent fix.

anyhow, check the tension on the valve cover harness and your glow plug connectors. take a male spade connector apart ( you want it flat not round like a paper clip ) and use the blade to insert into the female side and slowly pull it out making note of the feel of the tension. compare one to the other and you can feel a loose one. they make real gauges for this but a spade or other flat piece of the correct size works.

 

The first time I ran Forscan, it showed deficient on the cylinder contribution test. Probably around a month ago, shortly after I bought the truck. It passes the test now.



I'll do both the pin tests soon, good advice. My project this morning was the oil leak - I first tried tightening the fitting, it moved about 1/8 turn so I ran the motor for a bit and found I still had a leak. This time, however, something else was visible:





In the first pic, look to the left of the fitting - you can see the o-ring (blurry, I couldn't get the phone to focus on what I wanted it to) that was cut and got squirted out. Not sure how I missed it first go-'round, I had plenty of visual access and checked it at least twice. Anyhow, a couple hours rooting around in the engine bay and it is now leak-free. I'm glad I did my typical over-order of parts so I have spares, I had two HPOP rebuild setups. Gotta remember to order some more...

 

No heavy towing, I pull a trailer with an 800lb tongue before the weight distribution. I do take it back to storage without the weight distribution hitch but its only few miles away on streets.
I am suppose to take a trip down to Southern California mid October and not sure if I will get it replaced by then. You think that is not a good idea with that broken leaf?

Tim M

 

Hydra installed with 1023 tunes...the "cummins killer" mode is pretty darn nice. Need some more time with the economy/DD, but so far so good.

 

Added factory fog lights VIA the proper fuse locations to my boy over the weekend, updated my thread with some pics.

 

Taking off the factory pinstripe using the 3M magic eraser. Middle of the pass door is giving me trouble. May have been an overlap area, not sure. Had to tape and use some 1000 grit to break it down a bit, still not gone. Looking at the rest of the stripe, many areas will be no issue at all, already faded and partially gone. Im really liking the look without it so far.

 

Caliper locked up really bad this morning on the way to work, might need to fix it before the commute home.

 

And I found the culprit





Now to find the nearest store with a replacement caliper in stock.... fun day so far.....

 

To Be Continued..................

 

Installed a duracrap, it was the only option in walking distance. It has some odd steel caps on the pistons, I don't remember the other remans having them, is that why they're duraCRAP?


And I have a nail or screw in my tire, and yes, it's leaking. Slowly though, it's been there for a couple weeks. But that'll have to wait for tomorrow.

 

Didie, those might be caps you are supposed to remove when I look at your pics. I agree I have not seen anything like them before.

When it rains it pours...

 

I thought so too but they didn't come off easily as a cap would. I ran into my mechanic friend on the way to work this morning and he says that's normal, he sees them all the time and it's supposed to stay on. It's to mitigate damage to the piston. I guess these remans are real cheap and instead of replacing damaged pistons they are just covering up. Crap I hope it lasts a while.

 

My new caliper had those caps on the pistons too, I left them on, figured it was a hard face for the somewhat brittle phenolic pistons.

 

Ex got a new windshield on Friday. Not because the original one was damaged, but because the glue had failed most of the way around. The only bit holding it in still was up the passenger A-pillar and about 10" across the top

It broke while trying to remove it the rest of the way which was pretty much expected.

 

Mine got oil and filter, and I greased the slip joint in the rear drive shaft.

Joe, how much rust they find under the old windshield seal?