What did you do to the X today?
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Almost back in TX biotche
Posts: 1,711
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Gents, to close the glow shift gauge story, this is what I did. Used 12v regulators, placed in the main power wires for all gauges. These are delicate little a-holes so patience must be taken. I used the small crimp barrel from an eyelet or 'fork' terminal, cut the eye off, put the wire through one end and the regulator terminal through the other and soldered/shrink-wrapped. I did not try to crimp. If you buy these, you'll see why.
The idea to use this regulator came from another post on another site so I wont take credit, just sharing what worked for my application.
The idea to use this regulator came from another post on another site so I wont take credit, just sharing what worked for my application.
Amp Research running boards
Spent a great weekend in the shop working on the Ex.
Installed and wired up the Amp running boards. I will say the pre fab wiring harnesses they sent were no where near long enough to route the way the instructions say. They also had the drive motors on the opposite end of the board from what the instructions show. The motor placement would have made one end of the harness better but the other worse so would still have not installed per instruction.
In the end, I started with the plug in motor connections and ran the harness along with the heat/AC tubing on the right side. Control box underneath strapped to the tubing retainer block. Ended up only needed to extend the power and ground wires up to the passenger side battery. This harness would not have fit a F250 any better so no idea what they were thinking.
That aside, once bolted up correctly and aligned, wired up and running the trigger lines to all 4 door switch circuits (driver door is INSIDE of door...) they work great. Just took better part of 10 hrs to install. Guess I am slow but wanted an OEM quality install. They work flawless, are very sturdy when you stand on them which surprised me with only two supports on each side.
Since I had the driver door torn apart, went ahead and removed the door latch, cleaned and lubricated and replaced the door lock actuator. Then did the other 3. Wow, they all pop open and closed with authority and the pull handles work much better.
All and all, a great weekend of work done. Hopefully next weekend will be trans cooler and headlights.
Installed and wired up the Amp running boards. I will say the pre fab wiring harnesses they sent were no where near long enough to route the way the instructions say. They also had the drive motors on the opposite end of the board from what the instructions show. The motor placement would have made one end of the harness better but the other worse so would still have not installed per instruction.
In the end, I started with the plug in motor connections and ran the harness along with the heat/AC tubing on the right side. Control box underneath strapped to the tubing retainer block. Ended up only needed to extend the power and ground wires up to the passenger side battery. This harness would not have fit a F250 any better so no idea what they were thinking.
That aside, once bolted up correctly and aligned, wired up and running the trigger lines to all 4 door switch circuits (driver door is INSIDE of door...) they work great. Just took better part of 10 hrs to install. Guess I am slow but wanted an OEM quality install. They work flawless, are very sturdy when you stand on them which surprised me with only two supports on each side.
Since I had the driver door torn apart, went ahead and removed the door latch, cleaned and lubricated and replaced the door lock actuator. Then did the other 3. Wow, they all pop open and closed with authority and the pull handles work much better.
All and all, a great weekend of work done. Hopefully next weekend will be trans cooler and headlights.
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Almost back in TX biotche
Posts: 1,711
Likes: 0
Received 16 Likes
on
12 Posts