Does this sound about right?
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Does this sound about right?
I'm going to have the dealership replace the front brake rotors and bearings Monday and I asked for a parts quote beforehand. These are the parts they quoted me prices of:
1C3Z*1V102*AA B AND DISC ASY
2U2Z*1V102*CA B AND DISC ASY
E7TZ*1S190*B SEAL
C8TZ*1216*A LLER - BEARING
C9AZ*4221*A ING ASY - BALL
8A*1202* CUP - BEARING
C9AZ*4222*A CUP
Do I need all these parts for simply replacing the front brake rotors and bearings? Or did the dealership quote me prices for things that I don't need?
1C3Z*1V102*AA B AND DISC ASY
2U2Z*1V102*CA B AND DISC ASY
E7TZ*1S190*B SEAL
C8TZ*1216*A LLER - BEARING
C9AZ*4221*A ING ASY - BALL
8A*1202* CUP - BEARING
C9AZ*4222*A CUP
Do I need all these parts for simply replacing the front brake rotors and bearings? Or did the dealership quote me prices for things that I don't need?
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 1,388
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From: Greensboro, NC
For the 2wd models the front rotors are the actual hub assembly. So the bearings and seals are typically replaced as well as the outer dust seal/cup. Not sure about the actual part numbers but the listing looks about right. I'd also replace the pads since they have to take them off anyway - might as well start completely fresh.
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For the 2wd models the front rotors are the actual hub assembly. So the bearings and seals are typically replaced as well as the outer dust seal/cup. Not sure about the actual part numbers but the listing looks about right. I'd also replace the pads since they have to take them off anyway - might as well start completely fresh.
I recently replaced the front pads with Hawk LTS pads so all I need is the rotors and bearings replaced.
I've been chasing a vibration and more recently a roaring noise that I'm going to assume to be a bearing. I had replaced the front rotors and bearings with parts from O'Reilly and ever since I put those parts on, I've had these problems. I finally decided to just bite the bullet and take it to the dealership to get rid of the problem once and for all.
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Ed, if you can help, what's the difference between these two part numbers? I realize they are both front rotors but there's a large price difference between the two...
1C3Z*1V102*AA B AND DISC ASY
2U2Z*1V102*CA B AND DISC ASY
1C3Z*1V102*AA B AND DISC ASY
2U2Z*1V102*CA B AND DISC ASY
Super Moderator
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 29,380
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From: Central Coast of CA
I wished you lived closer bro. I'd help you with the brakes so you wouldn't have to take out a loan to pay the dealership for doing the job for you.
I recently replaced the front rotor/hub assembly on my 2-wheel drive F250. I used Powerslot cryo treated rotors (not cheap), reused the same bearings, and packed the hubs with an aluminum complex grease. I had no problems at all.
I dunno how good those rotors are for you, but since you're willing to have the dealership do it (pricey), is redoing the job yourself with a differenct set of rotor-hubs a possibility?
Stewart
I recently replaced the front rotor/hub assembly on my 2-wheel drive F250. I used Powerslot cryo treated rotors (not cheap), reused the same bearings, and packed the hubs with an aluminum complex grease. I had no problems at all.
I dunno how good those rotors are for you, but since you're willing to have the dealership do it (pricey), is redoing the job yourself with a differenct set of rotor-hubs a possibility?
Stewart
More Turbo
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 510
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From: South Park, Colorado
I have been collecting parts to do the brakes on my 2wd Ex. While I do not recognize the ford numbers, assuming yo do need new rotors, you will need the rotors, seals and possibly bearings. Maybe the Ford rotors do not come with the races? All of the aftermarket rotors I have looked at have the races installed. That might explain the couple of extra part numbers though I would think they might come with the bearings? I would hate to see the bill for that one, the prices for aftermarket 2wd rotors are frightening.
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Posting Guru
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I wished you lived closer bro. I'd help you with the brakes so you wouldn't have to take out a loan to pay the dealership for doing the job for you.
I recently replaced the front rotor/hub assembly on my 2-wheel drive F250. I used Powerslot cryo treated rotors (not cheap), reused the same bearings, and packed the hubs with an aluminum complex grease. I had no problems at all.
I dunno how good those rotors are for you, but since you're willing to have the dealership do it (pricey), is redoing the job yourself with a differenct set of rotor-hubs a possibility?
Stewart
I recently replaced the front rotor/hub assembly on my 2-wheel drive F250. I used Powerslot cryo treated rotors (not cheap), reused the same bearings, and packed the hubs with an aluminum complex grease. I had no problems at all.
I dunno how good those rotors are for you, but since you're willing to have the dealership do it (pricey), is redoing the job yourself with a differenct set of rotor-hubs a possibility?
Stewart
I'm definitely regretting not buying those powerslots or some rotors from diversified cryogenics. I went with the rotors from O'Reilly because of the lifetime warranty but if I would have known the rotors were going to be crap I would have skipped them all together.
Can bad rotors cause vibrations without the brakes being applied? That's the first problem I had. I thought it was bad tires. Three sets of new tires later and the vibration is still there. And now there's that roaring noise from the driver side tire that must be the bearing.
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Posting Guru
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I have been collecting parts to do the brakes on my 2wd Ex. While I do not recognize the ford numbers, assuming yo do need new rotors, you will need the rotors, seals and possibly bearings. Maybe the Ford rotors do not come with the races? All of the aftermarket rotors I have looked at have the races installed. That might explain the couple of extra part numbers though I would think they might come with the bearings? I would hate to see the bill for that one, the prices for aftermarket 2wd rotors are frightening.
When that noise started, I took the rotors back and got new ones with the lifetime warranty and also got some new bearings and seals. I put those new parts in on the driver side and the noise was still present.
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Posting Guru
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Yes sir, I've doubled checked that and then triple checked those nuts a few times now and it's been fine. What procedure do you use to set that nut?
More Turbo
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 510
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From: South Park, Colorado
I did a search on Parts Guy Ed's website. The first one shows up as a rotor for a 03 - 04 2WD Ex. The second just as a hub/rotor. I think they are the same left to right, I do not know what the difference is.
Super Moderator
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 29,380
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From: Central Coast of CA
I know how to do it, but somehow forgot to do it to one side of my truck, back when I did my brakes, because it was loose when I tore into it again.
I set it properly and never had a problem since. I've had my brakes off a few times now too because I've had to pop my ball joints off to grind clearance on them after installing a 2" spacer.
Stewart
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Posting Guru
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Yeah, I actually checked out the parts on the Motorcraft website and both numbers go to a front rotor. Perhaps one is an upgrade over the other..?
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Tighten down past torque spec (which I think, IIRC, is 18inch punds), then loosen to spec. Gotta be good at "feeling" it with a pair of channel lock pliers. Its very important to go past spec, then back off to spec, as opposed to just tightening it to spec.
I know how to do it, but somehow forgot to do it to one side of my truck, back when I did my brakes, because it was loose when I tore into it again.
I set it properly and never had a problem since. I've had my brakes off a few times now too because I've had to pop my ball joints off to grind clearance on them after installing a 2" spacer.
Stewart
I know how to do it, but somehow forgot to do it to one side of my truck, back when I did my brakes, because it was loose when I tore into it again.
I set it properly and never had a problem since. I've had my brakes off a few times now too because I've had to pop my ball joints off to grind clearance on them after installing a 2" spacer.
Stewart
One thing I did notice while I was under there the other day was that the drag link was loose in that when I grabbed it and rolled it front to back, it would move a good amount. Is this supposed move like that?
Former Vendor
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 3,849
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From: Seattle
here ya go.