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Now I know what you want. That little pointer that is bolted to the timing cover? I don't think it's cast on, at least mine isn't. Sounds like junk yard time. If it helps, the tab is at a 90 degree angle from that bolt, if you know which bolt I mean.
Now I know what you want. That little pointer that is bolted to the timing cover? I don't think it's cast on, at least mine isn't. Sounds like junk yard time. If it helps, the tab is at a 90 degree angle from that bolt, if you know which bolt I mean.
Yes I'm looking for the one that bolts to the timing cover. I seen some at Jegs but the dont look like they fit because I see 2 places where bolts go but one is set in further that the other. I'm not sure if the timing tab/timing pointer just uses 1 or 2 bolts to hold it on.
If you can't find one used laying around, your best bet for a replacement is any of the thousands of Mustang resto parts dealers. It's available in reproduction.
O.K. I looked at mine and the two holes mount the tab in question. The lower larger hole holds the tab along with the smaller upper one. The upper one is about 1/4" lower than where the pointer on the tab points. So looking from the driver's side, the tab would point about 1/4" from the smaller upper hole towards the passanger side. I took a pic of it but I'm having trouble posting it. I'm a computer idiot. If you sent me your email address I can email it to you. Mine is dap64@netzero.net. These tabs might be year specific. Mine is a 1968 289. I know guessing on timing is not the best practice, but you can probably start it in that position and adjust from there. I still think it's a junk yard item. Hope this helps
There were several different timing pointers used throughout the production run of the small block Ford. The early ones were in fact cast into the timing cover and there were 4 or 5 different bolt-on stamped pointers that were used throughout the years with various accessory drive arrangements. For the most part, any of them will work so long as it's visible and you can hit it with your timing light around the accessories. The thing to watch out for here is compatibility with the scale on the damper. Different pointers had different locations radially around the damper and the scale on the damper was consequently in different places to match. You need to buy or make a piston stop so you can verify that when #1 is at TDC, the pointer reads exactly zero degrees on your balancer. If it doesn't, you can pick up inexpensive timing tapes from any of the mail order speed shops to apply to the damper and correct the scale.
ed if you want i'll give you my cuz's number in pawnee he's got the 5.0 outta the 91 i parted using it as a mockup then god knows what , and i'm sure he could be convinced to let go of the one on it ........... later !!!!!!!!! p.s i havent forgot the parts i just have been either excessively busy or like today not feeling so well ................
Ok I'm retarded, what is a piston stop? Right now I have the #1 piston at the top of the combustion chamber with the exhaust valve closed so that should be TDC correct. The harmonic balancer is a aftermarket so I don't know if it will even be close to being in the right spot so I don't even know if trying to get the tab is even going to help any unless I get one of those adjustable timing tabs from summit.
It's not accurate enough for the piston to just be at the top of the cylinder. It actually stays up there for several degrees of crankshaft rotation. You have to verify that it's at exactly TDC with a positive piston stop. It threads down the spark plug hole. You can make a piston stop from an old spark lug or you can buy them also. You insert the stop and then slowly rotate the crankshaft until the piston comes up and contacts the stop and halts the rotation. At that point, you mark the pointer position on the damper. Now you rotate the crankshaft the other direction until the piston hits the stop again and make another mark on the balancer. Measure the distance between the marks and the half way point is TDC.
It's not accurate enough for the piston to just be at the top of the cylinder. It actually stays up there for several degrees of crankshaft rotation. You have to verify that it's at exactly TDC with a positive piston stop. It threads down the spark plug hole. You can make a piston stop from an old spark lug or you can buy them also. You insert the stop and then slowly rotate the crankshaft until the piston comes up and contacts the stop and halts the rotation. At that point, you mark the pointer position on the damper. Now you rotate the crankshaft the other direction until the piston hits the stop again and make another mark on the balancer. Measure the distance between the marks and the half way point is TDC.
So autozone would have one of these right? Then I can find TDC and where ever that is on my timing mark and damper is where 0 degrees would be correct, because if thats the case I might be able to use the timing tab off the old motor and just make new marks on it or am I off base on this?
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