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I did head studs, egr delete, and oil cooler rebuild/replacement. Now i cant get the truck to fire. I have AE icp is 1250.7 if i unplug the sensor and plug it back in, kinda weird. If i do a buzz test all of them buzz at once faintly, then each one clicks once in order, but it sounds nothing like my 7.3. Im not big on 6.0s so any help would be great.
What are we working on? What model year? You say you installed head studs. Are you the owner of the truck, or the tech that did the install? You obviously have access to a scan tool. You need to monitor FICM_L, FICM_M, FICM_V, FICM_SYNC, ICP volts, ICP psi, ICP desired, IPR duty cycle, RPM, SYNC and V-PWR. What readings do you get when it's at key-on/engine-off? What are the above readings doing when you crank the engine over? How about fuel pressure?
Its a 2005 F250, its not my truck either.
KOEO
RPM-0
FICM SYNC-0.00
FICM Logic Power-12.50
FICM Main Power-49.00
FICM Vehicle Power-12.50
ICP-10.76
ICP Volts-.26
ICP Desired-0.00
IPR-14.84
While cranking the engine
RPM-153.00
FICM Sync-1.00
FICM Logic Power-11.00
FICM Main Power-50.00
FICM Vehicle Power-11.00
ICP-11.90 But if i disconnect the sensor and plug it back in-1235.70
ICP Volts-0.26
ICP Desired-1255.40
IPR-84.77
Its a 2005 F250, its not my truck either.
KOEO
RPM-0
FICM SYNC-0.00
FICM Logic Power-12.50
FICM Main Power-49.00
FICM Vehicle Power-12.50
ICP-10.76
ICP Volts-.26
ICP Desired-0.00
IPR-14.84
While cranking the engine
RPM-153.00
FICM Sync-1.00
FICM Logic Power-11.00
FICM Main Power-50.00
FICM Vehicle Power-11.00 ICP-11.90 But if i disconnect the sensor and plug it back in-1235.70 ICP Volts-0.26 ICP Desired-1255.40 IPR-84.77
It sounds like you're not cranking the engine long enough to build sufficient ICP to start.
Its a 2005 F250, its not my truck either.
While cranking the engine
ICP-11.90 But if i disconnect the sensor and plug it back in-1235.70
ICP Volts-0.26
ICP Desired-1255.40
IPR-84.77
please notice how close icpdsd and icpv are. you in default from the way it looks.
this is backed up by the fact that you are only getting .26v icpv.
you dont say if you rebuilt/replaced the oil cooler. But I suspect either M-Chan is correct or you have trashed the ipr valve with debris that got in to the oil system durring repairs.
thanks for pulling and posting all the data that makes it easer for us.
I replaced the oil cooler with the kit from ford, it had the cooler, o-rings ,ect. Before i installed it i vacumed the valley, cleaned it the best i could, and filled it fresh oil before i put it all together. Im not saying something might not have gotten in there, but it was as clean as i could get. Is the 6.0 ipr anything like the 7.3, where i could pull it out and clean it/inspect it?
it like it only in the fact you can take it out and look at it. not so on the take it apart and clean it though. if there is a hole in the screen thats your isse and its junk if the screen is caved in its also junk, if the screen is more then 50% restricted its still also junk.
Ive doen it more then once too. no matter how much you clean around it sometimes it just happens.
Hi. Doing the EGR delete/ Oil cooler rebuilds I have had trucks take as long as 30-45 seconds to fire off, even when adding oil before you put it back together. On the last truck I did I had a "no start". After about 15-20 min od scratching my head (it was 12:00am, and I was hot and tired) I looked at my AE again and realized I had overlooked ont of the simplest things-- things that are out of sight... out of mind. In the midst of trying to finish the truck and go home to my bed, I had forgot to plug the crank/cam sensor back in on the drivers side of the block. Its the one you really cant see. Before finding this dumb mistake I had triple checked all my harness connections and my power and was about to pull my hair out. I felt much better after I plugged it in and it fired off after about 3 revolutions. I'm sure You have already checked these things, but everyone at some time or another has over looked the simple things and end up going the long way around only to find the problem was back where you started. good luck
Got it to fire today, thanks for all the help guys! I had to hold the key for 55sec, i had a stop watch lol. Only thing now is it still takes a while to fire, 30-40sec. Ive driven it a few miles, everything sounds and feels fine. Just weird it takes so long to fire still. Maybe a leak in the high pressure oil rail idk.
Got it to fire today, thanks for all the help guys! I had to hold the key for 55sec, i had a stop watch lol. Only thing now is it still takes a while to fire, 30-40sec. Ive driven it a few miles, everything sounds and feels fine. Just weird it takes so long to fire still. Maybe a leak in the high pressure oil rail idk.
...... which was exactly what I thought was the reason it wouldn't start when you posted this thread originally, by the way you described it. For what it's worth, I just finished helping out a small local garage last week. They had a high mileage '05 E-Series with a high pressure oil system issue that I instructed them to replace the HPOP, IPR valve and under oil cooler screen on. After it took them three days to disassemble and replace all said parts the way I instructed them to, they all had LONG faces on them when I arrived to help them after they had it all back together. As soon as I cranked, and cranked, and cranked, and cranked (while monitoring ICP psi, volts and IPR duty cycle with IDS of course), and CRANKED, the engine fired up!!! The looks on all their faces was PRICELESS to say the least.
The reason it still has long crank times even after a short drive after opening up the high pressure system is because it takes a while to get the air out. Small bubbles compress in the system and dampen the hydraulic pressure needed to actuate the injectors. I have seen guys not drive it and just back it out, customer comes to pick it up and leaves it again saying it still doesn't start.
Go drive it down the highway and get it to full operating temp. 10 to 15 miles works the best. Always do this step to make sure it is working properly after you are finished!
Go drive it down the highway and get it to full operating temp. 10 to 15 miles works the best. Always do this step to make sure it is working properly after you are finished!
And this is exactly the reason why I always ask the service advisor to get permission from the customer to allow me to drive the vehicle home for a night or two after any major repair of this magnitude where the engine has been opened up. This ensures to me that I'M satisfied the vehicle is fixed (no fluid leaks or other issues) before I release the vehicle back to the customer.