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Old Aug 5, 2010 | 11:21 AM
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Bump Steer

Question on front end geometry I installed a 3'' dropped axle and 2'' lowering springs on 53 panel I'm now experiencing some bump steer also installed a Toyota power steering box and disc brakes.I'm going to heat and adjust the steering arm to bring the drag link more parallel this should help also would shortening the pitman arm say about an inch make a difference and what would be the effect.
 
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Old Aug 5, 2010 | 11:50 AM
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Originally Posted by thomas parsons
Question on front end geometry I installed a 3'' dropped axle and 2'' lowering springs on 53 panel I'm now experiencing some bump steer also installed a Toyota power steering box and disc brakes.I'm going to heat and adjust the steering arm to bring the drag link more parallel this should help also would shortening the pitman arm say about an inch make a difference and what would be the effect.
Hi there and welcome, I thinking that firstly, have an alignment done on your front end. The factor would be that the geometry will be altered considerably by the mods you have made to it. Good luck and keep me informed. I am considering the same modification, though not as radical.
 
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Old Aug 5, 2010 | 12:07 PM
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I may be wrong but a certain amount of bump steer is a fact of life with a straight axle. Because of the tie rod connects to both wheels, a deviation of one wheel will push the other. Your mods might have made this worse. I agree, get an alignment first then take it from there. I don't think the pitman arm change will matter. Hope this helps
 
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Old Aug 5, 2010 | 12:28 PM
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Bump steer

I had an alignment done the angle of the drag link seems to be the problem no longer parallel to the frame I went with about 1/16 to 1/8 toe in according to specs I also installed CPP's front and rear sway bars .
 
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Old Aug 5, 2010 | 01:37 PM
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Originally Posted by thomas parsons
I had an alignment done the angle of the drag link seems to be the problem no longer parallel to the frame I went with about 1/16 to 1/8 toe in according to specs I also installed CPP's front and rear sway bars .
Toe in should be alright, but probably needs more caster adjustment. How's the camber?......these would have changed the most when modified.
 
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Old Aug 5, 2010 | 05:54 PM
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Axle came from Sids everything was within specs the pitman arm angle has changed quite a bit with the dropped axle and lowering springs I've seen on another site were they raised the steering box but would like to explore adjusting the steering and pitman arms also I added three degree shims would six degree shims make a difference.
 
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Old Aug 5, 2010 | 08:52 PM
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Originally Posted by thomas parsons
Axle came from Sids everything was within specs the pitman arm angle has changed quite a bit with the dropped axle and lowering springs I've seen on another site were they raised the steering box but would like to explore adjusting the steering and pitman arms also I added three degree shims would six degree shims make a difference.
If the camber is good you might be needing more positive caster. 6 degree shims, does that raise the front edge of the axle or the back?
 
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Old Aug 5, 2010 | 09:45 PM
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Originally Posted by Mervy49
If the camber is good you might be needing more positive caster. 6 degree shims, does that raise the front edge of the axle or the back?
I think Mervy may be right, lowering the front and not the rear will wipe out your caster and can cause wandering as well as bumpsteer. Tilting that axle back a few degrees should help a lot and it wouldn't hurt to address that drag link angle while you're at it. LOL
 
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Old Aug 6, 2010 | 05:51 AM
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The thick part of the shim goes toward the cab tilting the axle forward has anybody shortened the pitman arm what effect would shortening the arm say 1'' be that would help bring the drag link back parellel with the frame that and tweaking the steering arm but what will it do to the steering make it slower or quicker theres plenty of movement stop to stop so shortening the pitman arm wouldn't effect that I should have mentioned the rear has also been lowered flipped the axle on top of the spring truck has about a 2'' rake back to front.
 
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Old Aug 6, 2010 | 10:20 AM
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The thick part of the shim facing rearward will tilt the axle backward, not forward, which is what you want to do to increase your caster angle to help with straight line stability.

Shortening the pitman arm will speed up the steering, increase steering effort, and decrease the overall amount you will be able to turn the tires. If your plan would be to cut and weld the pitman arm, I would highly, highly discourage doing that.
 
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Old Aug 6, 2010 | 10:30 AM
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I made the pitman arm on the truck from a Toyota and truck arm this is a forged piece not cast stick welded proper rods by a qualified welder not a problem .When you order a extended drag link for down and forward front springs they want your core so it can be cut extended and welded .
 
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Old Aug 6, 2010 | 01:15 PM
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Originally Posted by thomas parsons
this is a forged piece not cast stick welded proper rods by a qualified welder not a problem .
OK, but how do you know it won't be a problem? Has it been magnafluxed and x-ray'd?
 
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Old Aug 6, 2010 | 07:44 PM
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Since I've been around AXracer has always shared a lot of wisdom regarding steering and suspensions. Give him a holler.

AX ?
 
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Old Aug 7, 2010 | 07:01 PM
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Yes I had it magnafluxed it's been on the truck for 4 years now no problems I'm going to start with the steering arm and the 6 degree shims first it may be enough I'll keep you posted.
 
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Old Aug 16, 2010 | 11:41 AM
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Bump Steer

Changed out my snubber rubbers over the front axles replaced them with jounce rubbers pretty well eliminmated the bump steer slightly stiffer ride but not bad brakes better also when stopping quick the nose dives used to pull a bit to the right not any more still going to tweak the steering arm but this worked great .
 
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