The bypass hose that runs from the lower thermostat housing to the top of the water pump sprung a leak and needs to be replaced. It is one of those repair jobs from hell! I have gotten the old hose off, but getting a new hose is impossible! The distance from the thermostat housing fitting to the water pump fitting is short (less than the width of a common radiator clamp on the backside)


What am I missing here?

I can see no way to loosen and move the thermostat housing - is there a way?

Are there any special techniques to doing this bypass hose replacement job?

Are there any specially designed aftermarket bypass hoses that makes these repair any easier?


HELP!!!

 

Which engine do you have?

 

4.3 V6 SOHC...

 

Welcome to the forum!

4.3L, that's a GM engine! You mean 4.0L?

Sadly, other than giving you a hard time, I don't have much offer for help. I changed all the hoses on a 5.0L V8, but haven't spent much time with the V6. If no one offers personal experience before I get home tonight I'll see if the factory service manual offers any tips.

-Rod

 

Sorry, it is a 4.0

 

Here's what the factory service manual for 1998 states:
Hose — Water Bypass, 4.0L SOHC


Removal

CAUTION:
Do not mix Standard (green) Coolant with Extended Life Coolant (orange). If mixing occurs, drain engine cooling system and refill with originally equipped coolant type. If this contamination occurs the service change interval on Extended Life Coolant will be reduced from 6 years/150,000 miles to 3 years/30,000 miles.

1. Remove the fan shroud; refer to «Shroud—Fan» in this section.

2. Lift the accessory drive belt tensioner and remove the accessory drive belt.

3. Remove the belt idler pulley.

4. Position the hose clamps back and remove the water bypass hose.


Installation

1. Install the water bypass tube and position the clamps.

2. Install the belt idler pulley.

3. Install the accessory drive belt.

4. Install the fan shroud; refer to «Shroud—Fan» in this section.

Since there is no mention in the manual of needing to remove the thermostat, my suggestion would be to use some silicone spray in the hose and see if it will slip on easily that way. You may need to install one end with the other end rotate away from the engine, install that clamp as far down as possible, then slide the other clamp over the nipple, attempt to slip the hose on the second nipple, then slide the clamp over the hose, seat the hose the rest of the way, and properly position the clamps. If you are using new worm clamps they can be opened all the way up, slipped around the hose once it's in place, then tightened. Be sure the clamp does not interfere with the serpentine belt.

-Rod

 

Thanks to everyone for the advice. Sorry for the late reply but work has been extremely busy.

I had to cut the hose to get it to fit and I trimmed approximately 3/8 inch from the thermostat housng fitting to have space to be able to get the hose on! It's held up so far through weeks of driving.

Originally, there was only about 1/4 inch space between the theromstat housing fitting and the water pump fitting. I kid you not! There is absolutely no way anyone can replace the hose as Ford designed it!

I hope I trade in the Explorer before I have to go through that again! And I might if that hose busts again!

 

I had the same issue with this. Here is what worked for me.

I did not remove the fan/shroud.

I did remove the serpentine belt and bracket that holds the power steering reservoir to allow better access. Also removing the thermostat was helpful. I was contemplating removing the thermostat housing but could not reach the one bolt in the rear.

With the tight clearance I tried to but on the water pump then twist it around, then the thermostat housing and twist it around with no luck, especially with the hose clamps getting in the way.

I took the hose and pinched it with the bend facing the engine. The sides touched and I slipped it on both nipples on at the same time. It was hard to push on both as it did not have the support to get over the lip. I then took a wrench 3/8 and inserted it down the thermostat housing towards the water pump. That gave it the support it needed to push on all the way. I placed clamps on the nipples before slipping the hose on. then was able to slip them over the hose. Then cinch them down.

Curious on how many book hours this calls for. It seems simple but hard to get to.

Good luck

 

Good Morning everyone!

This is my first post to this forum, I look forward to interacting with the community here.

I picked up this 97 mountaineer with the 5.0 V8 in it this summer. It has 120000 miles on it. Radiator rotted out so I am in the process of giving a good run through, replacing the radiator, hoses, thermostat, tensioner, and belt. I thought the fan clutch removal would be the difficult part. Turns out, the bypass hose is basically impossible to put back on. I had to cut the old hard crusty hose off. The new hose wont come close to going on. I read through the responses above. The 4.0 was addressed, and it looks like a solution was to cut the thermostat housing inlet 3/8 of an inch and also cut down the hose. On the 5.0, its not the thermostat housing that would need to be cut. I am hesistant to cut pieces attached to the block etc in fear of making the situation worse.

Like the original poster, am I missing something here??? Ive got this thing all torn down in my garage and I'm stuck!

Any insight would be greatly appreciated! At this point I feel like I need to call a mobile mechanic, or have it towed. Trying to save money with a newborn in the house.

Thank you!!

 

WhiteNoiz,

welcome to the forum!

I'm assuming that you are referring to the little 90-degree bypass hose that goes from the water pump to the intake manifold.

that hose is a complete PITA to replace, but it can be done on the truck wthout removing anything major.

I just did this on my 2000, and IIRC, i had to remove the upper radiator hose to get my hands in there, but no hard parts had to come off.

As i remember, the hose at it came from the parts store was slightly too long. I just trimmed off the small end of the hose, little by little until i could get it onto both hose barbs at the same time. 3/8" sounds about right, but i kinda just snuck up on it until i could get the bottom side of the hose on both barbs. Once you get it that far, you are home free and just need to work it on all the way.

not a real fun job, but you should be able to get it.

keep us updated! and congrats on the new baby!

 

That is the hose I'm referring too. So you trimmed the hose only, not any of the housings correct? Was the hose shorter than the one removed when you got it on there? Curious if the 2000 is the same as the 97. There is about 1/4 inch between the two fittings on top. So small I had to turn the hose clamps sideways to remove them.

Thanks for the response and the congrats!!

 

yes, i trimmed the hose only.

i didn't really check, but i think by the time i got the new hose one, it probably was a little shorter than the one i took off. once i got it short enough to get it on there, i had to work pretty good to get the hose streched out far enough to fully extend onto the barb.

basically, get it trimmed so that you can get it started on both barbs at the same time, then keep pushing on the bend and working both ends until you get it on there.

i think i had to keep pushing on the bend and straightening it out a bit to get the manifold end extended all the way to the manifold.

i put my top clamp on afterward, as it was in the way until i got the hose on. the bottom clamp i put with the hose because of the proximity to the water pump, it would have been hard to thread the clamp on afterward.

shouldn't be much difference between 97 and 2000. IIRC, my 81, 85, and 91 crown vic(s) with the 5.0 were just as much of a PITA, not much has changed in that regard.

 

Ok, I will give it another try tonight when I get home. I have a friend coming to help too. A real party!

I had another person suggest lubing up the hose, and putting the bottom on first, snug, with the opening toward the radiator. Then rotating the hose up to fit the second fitting.

I hope something works some magic here. I'll keep you posted.

 

that might work too .... in fact, that may even be better than what i did.

all i know for sure is that it took a while, but it can be done.

you can try lubing the hose up if the fittings and hose are dry. i had antifreeze everywhere when i did it so everything was pretty slippery.

you'll get'er!

 

That hose was changed along with the timeing chains and water pump, on my 04, 4.0.
I knew I would not be able to do it myself later if it sprang a leak.